|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:37 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 03, 2011
Posts: 10
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Dorset
|
 |
Hi Everyone,
sorry to re-post about this, i know there are several everyday!
The central locking on my girlfriends car doesn't work, if you push the lock button on keyfob, I hear the boot 'bounce' as well as the passenger door. however the drivers door doesn't move (can be locked with the key). I've also noticed the light doesn't come on when you open the door.
This fault was present when she bought the car, the boot actuator had been unplugged so it didn't unlock at all.
now obviously this points to a fault in the drivers door lock mechanism/actuator. but, a few things have thrown me. Basicly, upon removal of the door card, I can see a cowboy has already had a hack at doing this  . The foam sheet is long gone, and there is a bunch of loose wires that seem to have no purpose (that look like they have been cut). as far as i can trace, all the wires from the lock go back into the door connector, so i don't think its those that have been cut, and the electric windows + speakers all work. Are extra wires on top of this usually left loose? All i can think is either, these wires are usually neatly tucked away for if the car had deadlocks/electric mirrors etc, or if someone has put a wiring harness from a different car in?
I've unplugged the lock, but the others still bounce. i've got the impression from other posts on here, if i remove the faulty lock from the circuit, everything should work?
sorry to ramble! any input is welcome! don't want to shell out for a new lock to find its a wiring fault!
edit - forgot to add, its a W reg 3 door
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:08 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
|
|
Peugeot changed the design of the door lock motor as the ones fitted to the early 206's turned out to be awful.
The change in design also meant that a wiring mod had to be done to fit the newer type lock motor to a early 206.
Early crap lock motors use a 9 pin connector plug - the change to the newer design of lock motor need a 6 pin connector plug.
| | |
|
|
|
|
 | |  |
| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
 | |  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:26 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 03, 2011
Posts: 10
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Dorset
|
|
Thanks for the info - when did the change take place? hers has a 6 pin connector
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 6:19 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 03, 2011
Posts: 10
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Dorset
|
|
bump - can no-one else help me out?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:10 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 147
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Coventry
|
|
If I remeber rightly, the lock design was changed in 98/99???
It depends on build code aswell because some cars are obviously pre-registered so they may have old system in them due to being built before the change over.
If you're in dire straits for help, send me last 8 digits of your chasis number and I'll check what Peugeot say should be fitted to the car for you.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| 2004 206 GTi 180: 207.9BHP, 183.1 ft/lbs | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17126
Online Now [63]:
Visitors: 62
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
