#31: Re: wishbone needs replacing? Author: SinfulDesignCom, Location: Ashford, KentPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 9:27 am ---- "Genuine Peugeot wishbones fitted to my 206 under Peugeot manufacturers warranty back in 2005 & there still on the car now some 7 years / 70k miles later."
You lucky bast.....
#32: Re: wishbone needs replacing? Author: MrBSI, Location: What's it to you? ? ?Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 9:29 am ----
SinfulDesignCom wrote:
You lucky bast.....
Drop links where replaced at the same time & there still perfectly fine as well
3) Forget about the silly lever method to pop the ball joint from the hub. Just disc cut the arm in half near the ball joint. All the tension is gone and so easy to remove. may be easier if you have an assistant but i found it impossible doing this on my own.
It isn't impossible but an absolute pain, easily the hardest part of the job as you need four hands (especially when refitting), for anyone doing this job I'd certainly have a second pair of hands for it.
kandlbarrett wrote:
5) BEFORE FITTING - carefully remove the top clip holding the rubber boot on the ball joint and put in more grease - the manufacturers are really cheap on this!
I'd also recommend doing this - get some good multipurpose grease and add to what the manufacturer dolloped on it. It could mean the difference between premature wear and not.
Let us know how you get on.
#34: Re: wishbone needs replacing? Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 12:32 pm ---- Refitted on my own with just two hands.
Put the arm into the subframe most but not quite all the way.
Locate the balljoint pin in the hub - as the arm isn't fully home in the hub you won't be fighting the spring effect that the rubbers cause.
Fit but don't tighten the pinch bolt.
Carefully jack under the antiroll bar drop link as that will raise the suspension and allow final alignment of the bushes in the subframe and with only small rather than copius cursing. This jacking also allows the front subframe / wishbone bolt to slide past the drive shaft.
Time will tell if jacking the drop link has shortened the life of those link ball joints.
#35: Re: wishbone needs replacing? Author: SinfulDesignCom, Location: Ashford, KentPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:11 pm ---- The above method will work fine on stock bushes - try doing that with uprated bushes without swearing..
But good tips all the same. I'm still a fan of the lever method. Job can be a guaranteed 30 minutes every time... Last edited by SinfulDesignCom on Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
#36: Re: wishbone needs replacing? Author: unstabletable, Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:14 pm ---- ...rather than the 3 hours and about 1/2 a stone of sweat it took me!
#37: Re: wishbone needs replacing? Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 4:47 am ---- QH arms had moly (horrible but good black grease) inside the rubbers. So not sure if a general purpose grease is as good for the components as a moly would be.
I took off both clips and completely removed the boot to lube mine. I am not sure I would recommend that to everyone though as the bottom clip is quite sharp and feels like it could easily pierce the boot when you put it back.
It did allow me to get lots of grease on the joint and right into the actual area of where the wear would occur. I would do that again myself but anyone else trying it needs to be aware of the risk.
I would also be tempted to grind (file for those without a grinder) the first 5-8mm of the bolts into a slight taper. I found getting the bolts in isn't too much of a problem it is getting the last bit of the bush to line up with the hole in the bottom of the subframe that is hard so the bolt doesn't come out the bottom but just comes up against the subframe. I am not advocating driving the bolt through and wrecking the thread but once partly in you can often apply downward pressure on a ratchet and turning the bolt at the same time it will pull itself through on it's own thread. I didn't do that but think it would help. Just make sure you coat the exposed part with coppa slip or paint as you have removed any anti rust coat on the ground part of the thread.
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