#1: driveshaft repair Author: marshy206, Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:41 pm ---- Hi going to replace a driveshaft this weekend apart from taking the shaft out is there anything i might come across that i am not expecting thanks
#2: Re: driveshaft repair Author: LeeThr, Location: North West WalesPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:13 pm ---- First off, your going to need to replace the gearbox oil, the second the shafts out the oil will start to come out. Also which side will you be replacing? If it is the drivers side dont forget to replace the seal on the gearbox as these are one time fit items.
#3: Re: driveshaft repair Author: imjeeves, Location: Glasgow / WellingPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:12 am ---- As long as you are careful putting the shaft in then you dont need to bother replacing the seal. I have taken them out the box many times and not had to replace the drivershaft to gearbox seal.
#4: Re: driveshaft repair Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:30 am ---- New bolts for the front suspension. Old rusty bolts aren't nice. or safe.
#5: Re: driveshaft repair Author: richb, Location: SelbyPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:39 am ---- I'd change seals if you are keeping the car. Royal pain I you get a leak and have to strip again.
If you live near a pug dealer you'll be talking £10-15 for seals and bolts.
Make sure you get correct gear oil as well.
If you are doing it as per peugeot you'll need a copper seal for behind the gearbox filler plug.
Don't forget when you start cursing, the nearside is the easy one!;)
#6: Re: driveshaft repair Author: marshy206, Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:41 am ---- ok thanks and its the passenger side shaft thats getting done and i will keep that info in mind thanks agan
#7: Re: driveshaft repair Author: marshy206, Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:43 am ---- also are they a struggle to get out once everythings of or does it ned bit of a tap to get the old one out
#8: Re: driveshaft repair Author: richb, Location: SelbyPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 7:05 am ---- The old shaft will just pull, I've had them on and off to change boots and abs rings many times and never struggled.
The hardest bit will be separating the lower ball joint on the bottom arm to strut. ( worth having a good look at its rubbers while working on car)
I use a block of 3" x 3" timber about 7" long with a hole drilled at one end to fit a big steel bar in then chain it to the arm. When you stand on it the block of wood acts as a pivot on the sub frame and the bar chained to the arm pulls the arm down. The Haynes manual shows a good pic of it.
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