#1: 180 crank bolt torque Author: iancav6, Location: rugbyPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 3:06 pm ---- Whats the torque setting for a single bolt crank pulley on a 180?
#2: Re: 180 crank bolt torque Author: Sim, Location: West CountryPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 5:12 pm ---- Hi Ian,
Tightening torque: 40±4 Nm
and then followed up by
angular tightening torque: 54±4°
Play safe! Last edited by Sim on Fri Jul 01, 2016 4:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
#3: Re: 180 crank bolt torque Author: MrBSI, Location: What's it to you? ? ?Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 12:06 am ---- That reminds me, the latest Snap On flyer was singing the praises of there fancy digital combined torque / angle wrench.
Norbar for torque wrench's every time.
Halfords professional are rebadged Norbars.
#4: Re: 180 crank bolt torque Author: iancav6, Location: rugbyPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 7:00 pm ---- Undoing said crank pulley bolt,do you just rely on the flywheel locating tool to react against the torque?
I have the cam locking pins and a flywheel tool,it all locates and lines up ok,just don't want to shear the pip off without checking.
Short of taking the starter out and jamming something in the ring gear I don't see any other option?
#5: Re: 180 crank bolt torque Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 7:28 pm ---- Stick it in gear with the brakes on. But that might be no use if any engine movement is undesirable.
#6: Re: 180 crank bolt torque Author: Sim, Location: West CountryPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 6:02 am ---- Try with the impact gun first
a,haven't got one
b,no use when re-torqueing the bolt.
#9: Re: 180 crank bolt torque Author: Sim, Location: West CountryPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 4:38 pm ---- It's only to undo the bolt. Notice when sometimes you hit spanner with a hammer on a tough bolt, it gives in right away, without deforming brackets. Impact gun does exactly that
Just clarified my answer a tad: torque it to 40+-4 Nm, and then twist by 54+-4 degrees in addition.
It's only to undo the bolt. Notice when sometimes you hit spanner with a hammer on a tough bolt, it gives in right away, without deforming brackets. Impact gun does exactly that
Just clarified my answer a tad: torque it to 40+-4 Nm, and then twist by 54+-4 degrees in addition.
Thanks for the clarification on torque procedure.
Decided to stop dithering and went for it,crank locking tool held fine.
Water pump now replaced along with a few missing bolts from belt guards from last owners attempt at belt replacement.
All back together and fired up first turn of the key
#11: Re: 180 crank bolt torque Author: Sim, Location: West CountryPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:14 pm ---- Well done there! I think it's the first time I see a successful attempt from the get-go to GTi 180 belt change/adjust on this forum
Mind if I ask which guide you used that explained the tensioning procedures (that aren't the easiest), yet didn't specify the retightening torque settings? Also I presume you had all those special locking tools for the EW10JS at hand?
I'm veering towards a belt change myself, hence doing a read here and there. Damn those floating crank pulleys
Well done there! I think it's the first time I see a successful attempt from the get-go to GTi 180 belt change/adjust on this forum
Mind if I ask which guide you used that explained the tensioning procedures (that aren't the easiest), yet didn't specify the retightening torque settings? Also I presume you had all those special locking tools for the EW10JS at hand?
I'm veering towards a belt change myself, hence doing a read here and there. Damn those floating crank pulleys
I have done a belt change on a 138 and TBH its not very different apart from the location that you lock the crank.Principles are the same, lock crank and cams in place with appropriate tools,slide belt off,replace water pump if required,install new tensioner,fit belt and tension.
assumed the adjustment on the belt is the same as a 138.
Was unable to get a torque wrench on the tensioner bolt as there is sod all space so just did it FT( 'kin tight).There are adaptors around which will allow you to torque it up ,I just didn't have one.
I bought a timing kit off ebay,says it will suit all Peugeots,err no it doesn't.
Pins for cam pullies were there but not crank.
Got one made at work,appropriate piece of ally bar with a through hole for a drill bit to slide through into hole in flywheel.Worked well enough for me.i have full access to a machine shop but I would recommend you buy the correct tools for both cams and crank.
When the belt is on and tensioned,fit the lower belt guard and fit and tighten crank pulley,DO NOT attempt to turn engine before this is on.
The lower cam belt pulley is not keyed to the crank,it is only the clamping force of the crank pulley that stops it moving
Remove locking pins and rotate the engine by hand feeling for any locking,if you feel any resistance aside from normal compression,stop turning.
Rotate the engine a couple of revolution and take it back to the position where the pins locate,refit all 3 pins and confirm all is still in time.
If all is well,remove the pins.
Recheck the belt tension is still correct,see a 138 manual for the pointer setting,its a bit hard to describe.
Then just reassemble the rest of the belt guards,engine mount etc.
It is not too bad a job,however I have 36 years experience working on cars and engines,if you are in any way uncertain( don't know what experience you have ?) I would not tackle it as it would appear from the forum many have tried and ended in tears.
#13: Re: 180 crank bolt torque Author: MrBSI, Location: What's it to you? ? ?Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:43 am ---- The reason many have had issues in the past on here was due to not using the correct locking tools when timing the engine up.
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