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Forums › The Car › 206 Talk › rear axle & the metal on metal noise


 
 

rear axle & the metal on metal noise
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gazza82
PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 9:22 am Up
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Not sure hijacking is the right term when the thread is nearly three years old!

I'm inclined to this that this is the torsion bars not arb .. our old CC was prone to this (now sold) but our 1.4 Hdi is fine ..

Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.
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owlinbrum
PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 9:55 pm Up
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Lol no worries. Thanks Gazza82. I’m perhaps not up to speed on forums. Very much appreciate your reply.

My ting happens if the car is thrown into (say) a left bend. Then it won’t do it again until perhaps thrown into a right bend. There has to be a good force not just your average corner turning. Not that it has to be driven excessively hard either. As the average road isn’t a race track! It seems to be alternate corners it happens though. Three left handlers would result in one ting, probably on the first.

I’ve had the car near 10 years now and never had any problems from the rear bar brakes. It’s a 55 with 73k. I read it’s normally the axle on older models and arb is possible. But what happens when the torsion bars go wrong? I’m checking diagrams on the net, but if anyone has pics that can show me what is what that would be great.

I’ve only recently been looking into this so I’m not completely familiar with every part of the rear set up and it’s term.

Thanks very much.

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Edward
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 7:04 am Up
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It's very unlikely to be the torsion bars making a noise. The anti roll bar just needs the 13mm bolts to be slightly loose and you'll get the metallic clunk or rattle on bumps.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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owlinbrum
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 11:22 am Up
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Thanks Edward. The bolts are tightened to about 40Nm. There’s definitely no play in them. The ting or pink or tung noise only seems to happen on a hard bend. Doesn’t really happen just over bumps as such :-/
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owlinbrum
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 11:24 am Up
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Lol no worries. Thanks Gazza82. I’m perhaps not up to speed on forums. Very much appreciate your reply.

My ting happens if the car is thrown into (say) a left bend. Then it won’t do it again until perhaps thrown into a right bend. There has to be a good force not just your average corner turning. Not that it has to be driven excessively hard either. As the average road isn’t a race track! It seems to be alternate corners it happens though. Three left handlers would result in one ting, probably on the first.

I’ve had the car near 10 years now and never had any problems from the rear bar brakes. It’s a 55 with 73k. I read it’s normally the axle on older models and arb is possible. But what happens when the torsion bars go wrong? I’m checking diagrams on the net, but if anyone has pics that can show me what is what that would be great.

I’ve only recently been looking into this so I’m not completely familiar with every part of the rear set up and it’s term.

Thanks very much.

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Edward
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 11:27 am Up
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Torsion bars don't go wrong. There's nothing to go wrong. They are literally a bar with splined ends. They couldn't get any simpler.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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owlinbrum
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 5:05 pm Up
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Not quite sure how I managed to repost that message but I can’t remove now either. Sorry about that.

Thanks Edward. So are the torsion bars the bars that run top and bottom of the axle bar, with the anti roll bar running down the centre of the axle? I realise it’s not a proper axle but it’s the main bar running across the frame.

I just can’t work out what’s making the noise then. Is it going to be a case of removal to find out? Does anyone know where I can get new bit I need or would it be better to replace the entire assembly?!! I’d rather not of course!

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owlinbrum
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 5:47 pm Up
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What would make the ting noise? There was no noise until the 13mm bolts sheered off. Once replaced this noise started, but they are tight as can be. Sad
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SamanthasHubby
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 6:49 pm Up
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Have you checked to see if the torsion bar is not ‘jumping’ a spline when you go around a bend causing the ting?

If you mark the end and take it for a drive to get the ting to happen on one side then check the mark to see if it has moved. That way you can rule out the torsion bar.

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Edward
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 6:37 am Up
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If the torsion bar splines were slipping the suspension would collapse.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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Steve206
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 8:49 am Up
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owlinbrum wrote:
What would make the ting noise? There was no noise until the 13mm bolts sheered off. Once replaced this noise started, but they are tight as can be. Sad

How did they sheer of in the first place?

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Sim
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 12:18 pm Up
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I had exact same noise, and once I removed the axle, I could hear the anti-roll bar clanging at one end, when I gave it a shake.

I've had the noise in bends too (I'd presume is when the ARB is "at work")

That axle is ancient, and the bolts are seized up, unsure when I'll have time to inspect it :/

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
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owlinbrum
PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 12:19 am Up
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Thanks for all the replies guys. I’ve no idea how they sheered off in the first instance. I can only presume fatigue, but I’ve heard some people have had them come loose and then break. I’ve no idea if the near side became loose before snapping, but I made sure the offside wasn’t loose. I only didn’t replace it at the same time assuming it was steadfast (as it wasn’t loose) and I didn’t want to snap it needlessly undoing it. But then it went anyway!

I can understand the idea of the anti roll bar slipping a notch or jumping the spline and would assume the suspension would stay in place, rather than collapse with shockers still doing their bit. But I’m not familiar enough with how it all works to be certain what would happen.

I still get the ping, or ting, (it’s very similar to a spanner hitting an aircon regassing canister!) on the occasional left or right though. I need to try to get under there with the wheels off and see if I can push the arms to reenact the movement. I’d be very grateful if you (Sim) were to be able to find time to disassemble the rear axle you had the same experience with. It may help more than me to understand what’s happening here.

Thanks all, as always.

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Steve206
PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 5:59 am Up
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If the bars were jumping a notch the rear end of your car would look really low
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 6:24 am Up
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Owned / driven many different PSA products over many years with the same basic torsion bar rear axle set up, never had a problem / noise with any of them.

The 206 i recently part ex at 15 years old had 118k on it & still the original rear axle was fine.

Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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