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 Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 8:30 am |
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Joined: Nov 10, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Hi guys,
I'm having some issues with my 2006 206 1.4 urban, and would be very grateful if anybody can give some insight into the potential causes, before I take it to a garage - I have absolutely no clue when it comes to cars.
Usually when I start it up I have to apply some gas, otherwise it starts, but the revs are low and it turns off again. Applying some revs seems to solve the issue and it drives away fine.
However after a long journey yesterday, I've noticed some new problems which sound related.
When starting up, the car seemed to jerk and vary in revs like it was going to stall, until I got to a decent speed, then it was fine.
A couple of other new issues, that only occurred yesterday, which may or may not be related are:
The the oil light beeped and flashed a couple of times then went away. I checked the oil and it was fine.
The handbrake light was constantly on this morning. I guess I will need to check the brake fluid.
On the long journey the temperature seemed to fluctuate above 100, then went back down to sub 90 a few times - not sure if normal or not.
I would appreciate if anybody knows what the problems could be and whether they are probably related or not. I know when I got the car, there was a problem with the O2 sensor, but that was replaced.
Thanks
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:06 am |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2015
Posts: 175
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Tewkesbury
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Hello and welcome!
I'm not going to be much use with a lot of these problems but does the radiator fan work on both high and low speeds? And on this recent long journey were you driving at reasonable speed or did you spend a lot of time sat in traffic? I'm running the same engine as you and it's terrible for overheating in traffic. When the engine starts getting hot the fan should kick in on low and only when it gets up to around the 90 mark should it kick up to high. Mine would only work on high and it turned out the fan resistor was faulty. My heat management is a lot more controlled now.
What sort of revs does your engine idle at when cold and after being run for a few minutes?
Chances are, one of the others on this forum will be of more use to you than me but I'll lend a hand with my limited knowlege.
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| My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)
206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD
206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current
206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY) | |
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 10:06 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4266
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Palestine
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Well to solve the first problem,you need to look at this (How To) ,and follow steps to have the final result.
How To-Clean Throttle Body
about the other problems you had:
1-It's related to the original problem you had.
2-About the Oil light flashing with a beep,and since you have oil full,that leaves us with 2 causes,first cause is a faulty oil pressure sensor,second a faulty oil filter.
3-The handbrake light was on all the time,you need to check your car front and rear brakes,as you have a set that is worn out,or maybe both,never add oil to the brake system unless you check it,and find a leak or something related.
4-About the temp..well for it to reach behind 100 is not normal,as the fan kicks in about 97,so the car is newly bought or you had it for a while,as you might need to replace the thermostat,so that you don't have it stuck closed,and damage the engine,or stuck open,and keep driving a cold engine all the time,and cold heater in this winter,also you need to check the water pump,as the high temp with fan working means there is a slow circle for coolant.
Hope these answers help you to fix your car,Please keep us posted so that others get help when they read this thread.
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 10:20 am |
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Joined: Oct 22, 2014
Posts: 95
Trade Rating: 0
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I had a problem like this on both 106s I had. I guess my problem was the throttle body... The way I "fixed" it was every time I was going to start the car I'd always put my foot under the accelerator and lift the peddle up with my foot then start and would be fine. Sounds crazy I know 
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 11:21 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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06 plate should be fly by wire throttle.
Time for Peugeot Planet.
FWIW: The fly by wire throttle body is a known weak point.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 11:52 am |
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Joined: Nov 10, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Cheers for the help guys. I will take a look into your suggestions.
My partner couldn't get it to start today. She said once she did, the car immediately started to judder and there was more exhaust fumes than usual.
I think I will have to take it down a garage tomorrow before it gets worse.
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 2:53 pm |
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Joined: Nov 10, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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My mates mate had a quick look and recons it's the idle control valve. Is this plausible?
Also, I can hear a water sound coming from the glovebox when revving the engine. Maybe a leak? My coolant is suspiciously low too. I've read online that coolant leaks can cause juddering etc.
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Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:16 am |
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Joined: Nov 10, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Somebody plugged in a cheap dignostic tool today, and it gave the following error codes?
P0135
P1337
Strange that the engine light isn't on. I guess it could be broken, as it doesn't appear either when the key is turned.
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Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:36 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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Time for a sniff test, coolant pressure test and cylinder compression test before you spend too much more money on it.
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