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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › 1 wheel drive after new driveshaft


 
 

1 wheel drive after new driveshaft
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Deastaugh
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 11:49 am Up
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Hi All,
I have an issue that started off quite simply and has become a major issue that I cant get to the bottom of...

I have a 2003 1400cc quicksilver with the 8v engine that was 100% happy until I broke the spring on the drivers side front strut

the steering was becoming heavy and when I checked it had put the tracking out enough to knacker both front tyres.

As part of one thing and another I ended up replacing the spring + the driveshaft on the drivers side plus the rear mount and the drop links

All back together and tested everything with the front wheels in the air on axle stands - All perfect

However...

With everything back together but on axle stands I now don't have drive on the drivers side wheel.

I thought the drive shaft wasn't in completely but I have checked and it seems into the gearbox as far as it should and the intermediate bearing is in the right place.

If I start the engine and put it in gear normally noth front wheels spin but if I put my foot against the drivers side wheel it stops and produces a really bad grinding/banging type noise

Seems to be as if the splines aren't engaged onto the gears on the diff but all I did was remove the old shaft and fit a new shaft

The gearbox was perfect before the spring and shaft were replaced and the passenger side has not been touched at all

Can anyone give me a clue on where to look as I don't want to replace the gearbox and find that it was something else or something simple

All ideas very gratefully received

thanks
David

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 3:14 pm Up
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Was the replacement driveshaft the exact same spec as the original one?

Did you check the length plus the amount of splines on both ends & does the replacement shaft match exactly?

Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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Steve206
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 4:45 pm Up
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MrBSI wrote:
Was the replacement driveshaft the exact same spec as the original one?

Did you check the length plus the amount of splines on both ends & does the replacement shaft match exactly?

That was going to be my guess as well, sounds like its either to short, or not sitting right.

Whenever ive changed driveshafts ive always put them side by side before fitting.

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Deastaugh
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 7:03 pm Up
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The driveshaft was bought as a complete item new from eurocarparts using their online selector
I assumed, maybe wrongly, that it would pick the right part

Looks like i have a fun weekend coming up pulling the new shaft out to compare it

As long as i dont have to pull the box Im willing to try anything

While Im in there is there anything else to check on the box

Just for reference ive about 15 years experience with volvos and about 20+ with classic minis

But just one little peugeot and it all goes to pot....

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Steve206
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 7:18 pm Up
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Do you still have the old shaft? Can you check the spec of your new one against it before you pull it.
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Deastaugh
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 9:38 pm Up
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The driveshaft was bought as a complete item new from eurocarparts using their online selector
I assumed, maybe wrongly, that it would pick the right part

Looks like i have a fun weekend coming up pulling the new shaft out to compare it

As long as i dont have to pull the box Im willing to try anything

While Im in there is there anything else to check on the box

Just for reference ive about 15 years experience with volvos and about 20+ with classic minis

But just one little peugeot and it all goes to pot....

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Deastaugh
PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 9:45 pm Up
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I tried measuring the old one against the new one while it was on the car but like herding cats it was not very successful

If the shaft is wrong i need to pull it out
If the gearbox needs replacing i need to pull yhe shaft
So pulling it to check the measurements is no great loss

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2019 1:53 pm Up
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I'd order a new seal for the gearbox as its likely to leak with all the shaft removal & refitting.
Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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Steve206
PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2019 1:58 pm Up
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Just wondering, why did you change the shaft anyway? Hopefully all goes smoothly for you, keep us up to date!
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Deastaugh
PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2019 3:52 pm Up
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I changed it because the outer cv and the intermediate bearing were getting noisy so thought it best to change the whole shaft as being easier

Got that one wrong

Hopefully will find the answer before wednesday as i am away for a week after that

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Deastaugh
PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2019 4:37 pm Up
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I changed it because the outer cv and the intermediate bearing were getting noisy so thought it best to change the whole shaft as being easier

Got that one wrong

Hopefully will find the answer before wednesday as i am away for a week after that

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gazza82
PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2019 2:03 pm Up
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May not be you .. I went to pick up a recon driveshaft from a well know parts supplier and when he put it on the counter I didn't think it looked like the one I'd just taken off .. the bottom ball joint pulled out the arm and the outer cv joint was destroyed.

It was totally the wrong part .. but luckily they had another on the shelf that was correct .. both had same part number stickers!

Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold.
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Deastaugh
PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2019 1:34 pm Up
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finally had enough time and dry weather to pull the new drive shaft out and check it
seems its exactly the same as the old one so it must be the box itself

tried refitting the old shaft and it goes in correctly but it also doesnt get drive all the time

im wondering if removing the old drive shaft has allowed skmethjng to move within the diff and fitting the new shaft doesnt push the part back into line

so currently im left with the only option of changing the box

can anyone confirm the the box for a 1.4 16v is the same as my 1.4 8v? as there's one reasonably local to me for £40

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ekjdm14
PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 7:33 pm Up
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Just a thought, late to the party as just joined, but did you attempt to drive the car at all to confirm loss of drive? Unless you have an LSD then one wheel will stop if you introduce drag from your foot, and it's possible the horrid noise is from the left side after all this?

Not saying there's no issue since the noise is coming from somewhere, but make sure you've confirmed no drive before dropping the 'box! Only issues I've heard of with these 'boxes in sensibly powered cars is with 5th gear coming loose on it's shaft and jumping out but I wouldn't expect it to cause anything strange, or with people adding the wrong oil (high sulphur EP oil as opposed to something like Gear5 80W/90) and destroying the syncros as they still use brass/bronze in the mechanism. Other than that the only gearbox failures I've known have been eventual failure due to running empty of oil (this was estimated to have been over a year since draining and the 'box only gave out while towing) and some higher powered ones have done mechanicals through sheer torque but doubt that'd be the issue with a TU3.

(There was one 'box where I recall pulling both inner joints caused the diff to become "floating" in the housing but it's that long ago I don't recall what make/model or even if it was a wind-up as it seems strange)

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