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 Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 2:18 pm |
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Joined: Mar 16, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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First a "short" backstory...;
The clutch on my 206 started acting up recently as I was taking off after having stopped at a red light.
The biting point was very low, just a couple of centimeters off the floor, and the clutch was squealing loudly when the clutch pedal was pressed.
It seemed the clutch wasn't disengaging properly so switching gears was difficult but I managed to make it home.
Trying to put it in reverse with the engine on made the gearbox grind.
I knew the throwout bearing was on its way out, as it had been squealing for a couple of years, but never as loud as this so I figured it must've finally gone.
My buddy who's a mechanic wanted to have a listen just to confirm, so I took the short drive down to his shop but just as I arrived the clutch failed completely.
The pedal stuck to the floor and would not return on its own.
I thought the bearing must've fallen apart completely and was no longer pushing against the fork, so I ordered a new clutch kit and my buddy had it fit.
As expected the throwout bearing was damaged, but not as bad as first thought.
The top of it was missing and it had started eating away at the fingers of the pressure plate (all fingers were intact but were scratched by the bad bearing).
But after having the new clutch fitted the bite point was still somewhat low and the pedal felt spongy and seemed to be sticking/binding. Trying to put it in reverse with the engine on still made the gearbox grind, so the clutch obviously wasn't disengaging fully.
So at this point we started suspecting the clutch cable was bad as well, or possibly even the main fault.
I ordered a new cable which turned out to be the wrong one... According to my buddy who fitted it the cable seemed a bit too short and the hook ("yoke"?) snapped off the cable as the pedal was pressed.
The original seemingly faulty cable was refitted and it actually worked a bit better than before. The bite point was a bit low and the return on the pedal a bit weak, but I was able to go into all gears without issue. This turned out to be only temporary though. After having driven for a while the pedal started binding and creaking again, and shortly after sometimes wouldn't go into gear. I guess this further points towards the cable being bad, as having it taken off and put back on made it somewhat better temporarily?
TLDR;
I ordered this one, but it seems to have been the wrong frickin' cable.
My buddy had a pain in the ass fitting it, only to have the hook ("yoke"?) come off the cable as he pressed the pedal.
He said the cable seemed to be a bit too short.
How can I tell for sure which one I need for my car? Do I have to pull out the current faulty one and measure it?
Car's a left-handed 2006 1.6 16V TU5JP4-engine with MA5-box
Edit: The cable doesn't seem to be the cause of my problem. Changed topic.
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Last edited by wikpeu on Wed Sep 16, 2020 11:15 am; edited 2 times in total
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Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 4:17 pm |
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Joined: Mar 16, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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Urgh... Seems like I've got a bigger problem than the clutch cable.
The binding and creaking noise seems to be coming from the clutch lever or fork, or possibly the new throwout bearing binding against the sleeve?
I haven't had the time to free the cable from the lever and actuate it by hand to see if it still binds/creaks, but it doesn't seem likely that a faulty cable would cause this binding and noise?
According to my buddy the fork and its bushings looked fine when he installed the new clutch kit.
Here's two videos showing the binding and creaking;
www.youtube.com/watch?v=MeykUBzY5bc clutch lever
www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWXB9pb5Ptc clutch pedal
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Last edited by wikpeu on Tue Sep 15, 2020 9:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 9:08 pm |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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The first two cars on that autodoc site seem to be 2 litre models and the others diesels ...
You need to get the Peugeot part no and use that as the reference ... my servicebox account no longer works so can't really help now  My 206 1.4 hdi has a hydraulic clutch too ...
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 9:38 pm |
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Joined: Mar 16, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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| gazza82 wrote: |
The first two cars on that autodoc site seem to be 2 litre models and the others diesels ...
You need to get the Peugeot part no and use that as the reference ... my servicebox account no longer works so can't really help now My 206 1.4 hdi has a hydraulic clutch too ... |
From what I found online the Peugeot part number should be 2150.X3, which is what I used to find the part at Autodoc, but apparently there's multiple cables of different lengths using the same part number. Maybe 2150.X3 isn't the right OEM number afterall :/
The one I ordered was 660mm. There are a few that are 680mm which is probably the correct length, but I don't know for sure.
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Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 11:14 am |
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Joined: Mar 16, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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OK so I looked it up using the OPR code from the sticker on the B-pillar.
My OPR code is 10627 and according to this site the part number is supposed to be "2150 EC", but searching for this part number returns cables with a variety of lengths, so I still don't know which one I'm supposed to order.
But I'm starting to believe the cable isn't actually the cause of my problem.
When I pressed the clutch today (with the engine off) it felt OK, but after pressing it about 20 times it started binding and creaking again.
I then tried pulling on the clutch cable and lever towards the front of the vehicle and it did not bind or creak. If it was the clutch cable, shouldn't it have creaked and stuck when I pulled it by hand at the lever?
It's as if something isn't greased up properly and there's friction that builds up.
Does anyone have a clue what it could be?
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 7:21 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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MA gearbox really needs the guide sleeve changing on the gearbox when you replace the clutch kit.
Its a very cheap / easy to change part - with the gearbox removed.
Rarely the release arm can also bend - again easy to change with the gearbox removed.
After fitting a new cable the clutch pedal height might need adjusting with the stop / adjustor bolt at the pedal.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 11:49 am |
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Joined: Mar 16, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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| MrBSI wrote: |
MA gearbox really needs the guide sleeve changing on the gearbox when you replace the clutch kit.
Its a very cheap / easy to change part - with the gearbox removed.
Rarely the release arm can also bend - again easy to change with the gearbox removed.
After fitting a new cable the clutch pedal height might need adjusting with the stop / adjustor bolt at the pedal. |
I probably forgot to mention it, but the guide sleeve was replaced at the same time.
The clutch fork/arm and its bushings looked fine according to my buddy who did the job, but there may of course be something wrong with them.
I'm gonna start off with replacing the cable. 2150 EC seems to be the correct OEM number for the clutch cable. The previous wrong one I ordered (2150 X3) seems to have been for models up to year 2002...
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 3:48 pm |
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Joined: Mar 16, 2015
Posts: 9
Trade Rating: 0
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It turned out to be one of the fingers of the fork being slightly bent, which angled the bearing and caused it to bind against the guide sleeve.
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