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 Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 5:50 pm |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2011
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: davenport
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Hi Chaps new to this forum normally over on landyzone.
Ive got a 205 180 gti that has a knocking issue. Front left engine mount changed bottom mount inspected and new trail arm attatched. The bottom mount looks fine and tests ok....can it still be faulty? there's no visible play in drop links and anti roll bars bushes.
The car will make a clunk between 1st and 2nd gear if driven hard and then with low revs rough surface i.e. cobbles will knock like a good thing.
The wishbones seem to be ok as there is no majr movement even using a pry bar, car has just passed its mot and nothing picked up.
there's no torque steer so i would assume wishbone are ok and the drop links seem to be a ok aswell........is the only way to check theses properly by removing them?
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Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:49 am |
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Joined: Apr 30, 2011
Posts: 1676
Trade Rating: +46
Location: durham
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when our 180 developed a knocking we changed almost everything...
then found out it was steering rack ends
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WARNING: This User Has Had Bad Trade Feedback In The Past
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Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 2:39 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 7
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Berkshire
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The type of knocking you describe does point towards the drop links. They're a classic for that kind of noise. fine or rare on the flats but clonk a treat on the rougher stuff.
If you're sure they are in good nick though, could it be the exhaust knocking on the underside/chassis. Check for broken exhaust mounts or if the exhaust itself is running unusually close to the body anywhere. Remember though, even if it isn't touching, with the forces of the car clattering over bumps etc, the engine and exhaust will move around considerably.
Good luck in finding it
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| Handy with a spanner
Fairly clued up on 205's; once wrote a pretty good rear beam refurb guide. | |
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Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 2:41 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 7
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Berkshire
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Forgot to mention, if it is the track rod ends as suggested, a swift left/right wiggle of the steering wheel whilst stationary should highlight any problems there.
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| Handy with a spanner
Fairly clued up on 205's; once wrote a pretty good rear beam refurb guide. | |
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 3:13 am |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2011
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: davenport
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Hi, thanks for your replys.
As the drop links are a cheap repair for good quality ones i'll give them a go anyway.
The exhuast is ok i've crawled all over it and given it a good shake.
One thing, the guy we bought the car off says he changed the dogbone engine mount, which as far as i know is the torsional damper at the bottom of the engine (this was on an mot advisory).....but the one he actually changed was the gearbox mount. The bottom one looks ok with no splits etc.......could it still be goosed?. When the engine is first started there is a fair bit of movement left to right and then it settles down fine, and when reving it doesn't move that much.
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 4:22 am |
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Joined: Jul 24, 2011
Posts: 19
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Selston Nottinghamshire
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My mate has a 180 gti and had a knocking when changing gear. He changed loads. Drop links, Engine mount etc. Found out in the end it was his cat. It had come lose inside some how. Might be worth alook. We jacked the front end up and rotated the wheel as hard as we could.
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 5:32 am |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2011
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: davenport
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Hi,
just been under it again..........cat is ok.
I've just tightened up one of the nuts on the manifold sheild there was a tiny amount of play on one side, and the other flimsy heat sheild was touching the body so i've slightly altered that to give it good clearance.
I'm off to get the drop links, i'll see if there is any improvement.
The noise when accelerating hard between 1st and 2nd is a right thud unless you do a smooth change and it's fine in all other gears, my drive shafts are in great condition with no play at all, so that counts them out.
The faster you drive on the rough stuff the less the knocking noise occurs?
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 12:19 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 7
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Berkshire
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Sounds more like the lower engine mount in that case. Rough ground would make the noise worse if it was the drop links.
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| Handy with a spanner
Fairly clued up on 205's; once wrote a pretty good rear beam refurb guide. | |
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 2:56 pm |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2011
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: davenport
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Yep not the drop links, I changed them earlier and it's just the same.
The lower mount looks ok, no splits or anything.....do these go weak with time?
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 4:29 pm |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2011
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: davenport
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Has anyone managed to change the lower engine mount bush without having to remove the drive shaft and take the housing off the car?
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Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:37 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 7
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Berkshire
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In answer to your question, no. Id say it's probably too awkward to get any type of tooling on the mount to change the bush whilst in situ. I take it all other mounts are good though? Gearbox mount usually gets forgotten as it's tucked away under the battery box.
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| Handy with a spanner
Fairly clued up on 205's; once wrote a pretty good rear beam refurb guide. | |
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Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 1:27 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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| mjrimmer wrote: |
| Has anyone managed to change the lower engine mount bush without having to remove the drive shaft and take the housing off the car? |
No...it needs pressing out.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 1:59 am |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2011
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: davenport
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| Sheepsteeth wrote: |
| In answer to your question, no. Id say it's probably too awkward to get any type of tooling on the mount to change the bush whilst in situ. I take it all other mounts are good though? Gearbox mount usually gets forgotten as it's tucked away under the battery box. |
Hi, Yep it has a new gearbox mount on it.
As for pressing it out in situ, I was hoping i could be lazy and save myself some time but as said it would be quicker to remove instead of wasting time stuggling with it in place.
On the top mount how much space should there be between the for and aft rubber bumpers?
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Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 12:05 pm |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2011
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: davenport
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Just had it on the ramp at my local garage, it's the near side wishbone front bush thats shot. I'll pick one up in the morning and get it changed over on saturday morning.
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 12:51 pm |
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Joined: Aug 11, 2011
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: davenport
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I finally got round to changing the wishbone today...Pleased to report it's quiet as a mouse now.
Happy days until the next fault.
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