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 Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:40 pm |
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Joined: Oct 23, 2010
Posts: 64
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Horchurch, Essex, London
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Right, so I've managed to fix my washer jet problem, my headlights, my number plate lights and is just the break lights thats the problem.
Fuses - Fine
Bulbs - Fine
White plug under passenger side dashboard - Connected fine.
Now I had an idea that it would be an issue with the switch itself, yet, if I understand it correctly... If the white connector is unplugged, the breaklights are off all the time. Which is not the case for me, I've tried disconnecting it but they are not.
I've tried looking for this plug that you mentioned MFACTOR001, but there's a lot under there and cannot see anything thats related.
Think I might have to get it checked out after all.
This is probably completely un-related, but after looking in the boot at the wiring, I found this...
It doesn't seem to connect to anything, so probably just random cable.
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 8:17 am |
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Joined: Mar 23, 2010
Posts: 247
Trade Rating: 0
Location: sheffield
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Not sure what that cable is without having a look in boot it could be boot light wire or boot latch wire it is common practice for manufactuers to use the same loom in as many cars as poss and just leave out the extras so its nothing to worry about if it looks spare.
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 8:23 am |
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Joined: Mar 23, 2010
Posts: 247
Trade Rating: 0
Location: sheffield
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I just took pic early models switch on left where mine is later on the right bang next to it
To get a better look at it if you take glove box out you have clear access
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 8:26 am |
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Joined: Mar 23, 2010
Posts: 247
Trade Rating: 0
Location: sheffield
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Yes thats right so it sounds like swith behind glovebox if thats not pressed in then it doesent matter what you do with drivers side switch.
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:22 am |
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Joined: Oct 23, 2010
Posts: 64
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Horchurch, Essex, London
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| MFACTOR001 wrote: |
| Yes thats right so it sounds like swith behind glovebox if thats not pressed in then it doesent matter what you do with drivers side switch. |
I am still a little un-sure what you mean by the switch under the drivers side. I cannot see any loose or disconnected cables, so I gather we are looking at a faulty switch itself. (Passenger side).
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:16 pm |
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Joined: Mar 23, 2010
Posts: 247
Trade Rating: 0
Location: sheffield
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I will also get pic of the one under the fuse box at drivers side
Have you located bith switches ?
When you do it is possible it is simply lose to remove dont jusy pull it as it needs a little turn left or right and it will then slide out. And when you put it back in just push it in a little further then turn to lock in if that fails to sort it you are looking at faulty switch.
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:17 pm |
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Joined: Mar 23, 2010
Posts: 247
Trade Rating: 0
Location: sheffield
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If poss send me pic of under dash both sides and i will point em out.
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Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 12:58 pm |
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Joined: Oct 23, 2010
Posts: 64
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Horchurch, Essex, London
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RESULT! Bought a switch from the local PUG Parts & Spares (£5) and fitted it, all working perfectly now.
Just a bit of information for anyone reading this, some of the information provided here is a little mis-leading.
Removing the white plug from the switch alone will NOT make all the breaklights come on. (well it doesnt on a 55 plate 206 180 at least). I noticed everyone talking about a 2 wire connector, yet mine was 4 wires, possibly a difference, Im not too sure.
You need to remove the whole switch in order for the break lights to come on, or to have no pressure on the switch pin itself. (i.e, applying the breaks and the bar moving forward.)
Simple fix to an annoying issue, but if anyone is in the Romford, Essex area, the guys at Eddy Grimstead Parts & Spares are very helpful.
dealer.peugeot.co.uk/e...tead/home/
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Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 11:09 am |
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Joined: Mar 24, 2010
Posts: 303
Trade Rating: +1
Location: UK
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| MrBSI wrote: |
Try shorting the connector plug out then see if the brake lights come on.
Sounds like it needs a new switch. |
None of my brake lights come on. I have inspected the switch under the glovebox and it is in place and the connector is in.
How can I short the connector plug to check if the switch is faulty. Also, are there any specific fuses i need to check and how do i find out which ones?
Thanks
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Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 1:49 pm |
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Joined: Apr 14, 2010
Posts: 713
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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| adzar wrote: |
| MrBSI wrote: |
Try shorting the connector plug out then see if the brake lights come on.
Sounds like it needs a new switch. |
How can I short the connector plug to check if the switch is faulty.
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Unplug the connector from the switch. If it's a 2 wire connector (someone mentioned 4 above - there I'm not sure) then use a short piece of wire, paper clip etc (essentially anything that'll conduct electricity) and bridge between the terminals in the plug.
Be careful to not let it touch anything else metal or you'd likely blow the fuse.
If you have a multimeter then you can measure for voltage between each terminal [in turn] and ground - one should (w/ ignition on) read 12V the other 0V. If you then were to measure resistance between the 0V terminal and ground you should gave a low resistance reading (the parallel resistance of all the brake light bulbs)
If you don't get 12V on any of the terminals then it looks like an 'upstream' wiring issue, fuse etc.
If you don't get a low resistance reading then it could be a 'downstream' broken wire (between the plug and the branch point (since all 3 lights are out)
Going by the wiring diagram there is one upstream fuse,F32, in the engine bay and then there are two (one for each side) fuses, F11 & F12, in the interior fuse box, after the switch, protecting the wires through the car as they run through the car.
(ie one wire from main fuse to switch, then one wire from switch to interior fuse box where it splits into two fuses and wires to each side rear brake light. The central light appears to use same fuse as left side bulb.
Not sure if that fuse numbering applies to all models though (plexed/non-plexed, years etc).
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| Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC | |
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2012 2:12 am |
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Joined: Mar 24, 2010
Posts: 303
Trade Rating: +1
Location: UK
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Thanks very much for the detailed reply. I've checked those three fuses and they're all fine.
I've got the 4 wire connector and no multimeter, so i'm going to have some difficulty trying to short it to work. I did have a little look at the mechanism inside the swith and i reckon i have an idea about how to short it. Otherwise, I'll just have to take it to the local garage...
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2012 2:34 am |
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Joined: Mar 24, 2010
Posts: 303
Trade Rating: +1
Location: UK
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Managed to short the 4 wire connector and the lights came on.
For future info for anyone else:
Remove the plug that connects to the switch. As you look at it with the securing clip on top, short out the two contacts on the right side and this will be sufficient to turn on all three break lights (if the switch is the root of the problem).
Thanks
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