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 Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 3:53 am |
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Joined: Feb 16, 2010
Posts: 440
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Devon
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Hey all,
On my 2002 1.4HDi i have standard brakes all round and well, they work to a fashion. the car has done A LOT of mile (160k) and the brake pedal has a bit of travel until they actually do something.
We also have a 2004 1.4HDi 206 (110k), but the pedal hasnt half the amount of play as mine does and generally feel like the car would ancher right up if needed where with mine you would be struggling.
I'm not a hard driver as in boiling the brake fluid, warping discs pads etc.
its just something that the cars are similarly the same condition (looked after) but there's a definate difference in the brake quality.
I have changed the brake fluid on mine, discs and pads have plenty of meat left on them. so was thinking could it bedown the master cyclinder?
Does anyone have experience in changing them? and would you know if the 2.0l GTi one would fit as ive just spied one down the local braker.
Did look at a new on £90 on ECP, not something i want to spend at the moment as i'm not sure im keeping the car. so if the scrappy man would sell me the GTi MC cheap then i would be tempted to have a go swapping them over but just wondering if it would fit.
Thanks
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Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:25 am |
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 2596
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North West Wales
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Im geussing you have drums on the back? Checked to make sure one of the cylinders arent leaking?
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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 6:06 am |
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Joined: Feb 16, 2010
Posts: 440
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Devon
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haven't checked to be honest. handbrake holds fine though, doesn't look damp around the the rear drums.
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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 7:11 am |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 529
Trade Rating: 0
Location: darlington
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Handbrake is cable...slave cylinders are hydraulic main brake circuit...very different man...
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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 7:15 am |
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Joined: Feb 16, 2010
Posts: 440
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Devon
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What i meant was if the slave cylinders were leaking and getting on the rear shoes then they wouldnt grip so well on the drums thus the handbrake wouldnt hold..?
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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 7:48 am |
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Joined: Oct 17, 2012
Posts: 83
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bedfordshire
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When I changed our shoes I didn't adjust them properly and I found I had a lot more travel before anything happened.
I would suggest you check the clearance between the shoes and the drums as it sounds like it might be to much.
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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 9:04 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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| DeeTurbo wrote: |
When I changed our shoes I didn't adjust them properly and I found I had a lot more travel before anything happened.
I would suggest you check the clearance between the shoes and the drums as it sounds like it might be to much. |
It should have an auto adjustment mechanism in the drum. If the shoes were badly adjusted or the mechanism wasn't working, the handbrake wouldn't hold. After changing the shoes, it can take a few pedal presses for the adjuster to sort itself out and set the shoes in the correct position for the shoes to work effectively.
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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 9:21 am |
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Joined: Feb 16, 2010
Posts: 440
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Devon
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Trick it by pullimg the hand brake a click? Thibk mine comes up about 4/5 clicks
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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 9:31 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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4 to 5 clicks is fine for a handbrake, the adjustment for the cable is done behind the handbrake anyway.
I had my adjusters replaced a few weeks ago as one had broken. They are prone to failure.
When it was rebuilt the handbrake wouldn't hold, but by the time I got home it was better than it had ever been. I felt a difference in the brake pedal too, but the shoes only move a fraction while it's adjusting, so you don't really feel any difference though your foot.
You could jack the car up, start the engine and get a friend to put their foot on the brake and see if you can move each wheel in turn, better still nip to the local MOT station and ask them to put the car on the rollers and check the braking efficiency. They will pinpoint if anything that is amiss and be able to tell which wheel it is.
It could be something as simple as the face of the friction material has glazed and just needs roughing up with a piece of sandpaper.
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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 9:36 am |
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Joined: Feb 16, 2010
Posts: 440
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Devon
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Thanks for all advice. Ill get on the case after christmas
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