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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Engine not starting after timing belt replaced


 
 

Engine not starting after timing belt replaced
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 6:57 am Up
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This is just yet another DIY GTI 180 timing belt gone wrong thread to add to the ever growing list on here Wink
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macj
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:13 am Up
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With all the best will in the world you are performing the biggest engine killer in the automotive industry..... the cam belt change.... I always suggest that you read up on it, you seek advice before attempting it and you double check all your stages as you go.
In simple terms, measure twice, cut once.

As for your current predicament I suggest you get a local mobile mechanic to come and run his eye over it before you go any further.

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Edward
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:38 am Up
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kwakzx7r wrote:
If someone has the confidence to try and do it themselves then with the right help there is no reason why they shouldn't be able to do these jobs themselves!

Seems a little knowledge and confidence is dangerous! Surely you studied and researched the job before you started it?

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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omega
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:46 am Up
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kwakzx7r wrote:
I thought the whole point of this forum was to help those that needed help, not to tell them to take it to "someone who knows what they're doing" If someone has the confidence to try and do it themselves then with the right help there is no reason why they shouldn't be able to do these jobs themselves, learning how to do it and have the knowledge to pass onto others !!

I think people are worried that you will damage your engine costing you more than getting someone in who knows what they doing!

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kwakzx7r
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:20 pm Up
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omega wrote:
kwakzx7r wrote:
I thought the whole point of this forum was to help those that needed help, not to tell them to take it to "someone who knows what they're doing" If someone has the confidence to try and do it themselves then with the right help there is no reason why they shouldn't be able to do these jobs themselves, learning how to do it and have the knowledge to pass onto others !!

I think people are worried that you will damage your engine costing you more than getting someone in who knows what they doing!

I have seen poster's here post "if you have to ask that then you shouldn't be doing it" !!!!! just because someone doesn't know the particular car they have just bought, it doesn't mean they are incapable and should be able to post asking a genuine question without fear of being labeled an idiot for asking Confused

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Addaz
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:24 pm Up
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Youve f****d it. Simple as.

Do a compression check and when you find its down on one or more cylinderd, im offering £250 for it Smile

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data
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 6:31 pm Up
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OUCH!
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Aaron180
PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:00 pm Up
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Compression test results:
Cylinder 1: 3psi/40kpa
cylinder 2: 3psi/40kpa
cylinder 3: 4psi/60kpa
cylinder 4: 4psi/60kpa

I recorded many results but basicaly each cylinder reached about 60kpa and nothing over. This leads me to think i havent bent a valve, but maybe 1 or 2 teeth out on the inlet cam. As the compression stroke is coming up, the one of the two intake valves are slighty open and the compression is escaping. This weekend i will re-time the motor and re-test. Will keep thread updated.

Aaron.

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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 5:19 am Up
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I have never see compression that low even with one or two teeth out. I hope you are right but I don't think so.
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Steve206
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 6:54 am Up
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Does seem low.
Work in Progress
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Steve206
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 6:56 am Up
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performancetrends.com/...essure.htm
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 9:41 am Up
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It's a prototype low compression EW10J4S engine Wink
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Edward
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 10:37 am Up
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I've seen an engine with no head on with a higher compression.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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macj
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:04 pm Up
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it could be fuccked
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Addaz
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:55 pm Up
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The timings in correct. But there is still a high chance all the valves are slightly bent
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The only way of finding the limits of the possible is by going beyond them into the impossible - Arthur C. Clarke

Forged 1.6 Turbo
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144Bhp @ 7PSi - 193.9Bhp @ 13psi

206 Gti Race Car
Click to see more

For all Race/Track Preparation, Feel Free to PM Me!
Whether its for a custom ratio gearbox or track-day alignment, I can help!
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