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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Heater/blower motor not working


 
 

Heater/blower motor not working
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Mack10
PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 5:14 am Up
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The car is a 2003 peugeot 206 1.4l petrol 8v quicksilver. The blower has 5 fan settings, 0-4. On any setting (0-4) the fan will not operate.

I found the blower motor under the passenger glove-box, i removed the power to it and hooked up a multi meter to the plug and found the following when the car was running:

Blower setting 0: no current or voltage
Blower setting 1: 14V
Blower setting 2: 14V
Blower setting 3: 14V
Blower setting 4: 14V

The current and voltage did not change as i increased the fan speed. Does this mean something else is wrong? Obviously when supplying 14V to the blower motor, the motor should operate which its not so the motor is definitely broken. But, is something else wrong as the voltage is not changing from setting 1 to 4.?

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mtempsch
PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 9:53 am Up
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Mack10 wrote:

Blower setting 0: no current or voltage
Blower setting 1: 14V
Blower setting 2: 14V
Blower setting 3: 14V
Blower setting 4: 14V

The current and voltage did not change as i increased the fan speed. Does this mean something else is wrong? Obviously when supplying 14V to the blower motor, the motor should operate which its not so the motor is definitely broken. But, is something else wrong as the voltage is not changing from setting 1 to 4.?

Not 100% sure how the speed is controlled, but if it's via upstream resistors, then if no (or very low) current is drawn (as it is by the motor when running), then there will be no voltage drop over the resistor(s) and you will measure/see the full voltage of the system.
If you were to hook up a similar size (sorry, no idea as to how many Watts the motor is) load you might see the difference in voltage drops as you change the speed setting.

Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC
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Mack10
PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 8:35 am Up
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Anyone know how i can get the blower/motor out?
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mtempsch
PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 8:50 am Up
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Mack10 wrote:
Anyone know how i can get the blower/motor out?

Haven't done it myself, but maybe this helps (YouTube): step by step Heater fan blower motor change

Silvermetallic 2004 206 RC
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Mack10
PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 9:13 am Up
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mtempsch wrote:
Mack10 wrote:
Anyone know how i can get the blower/motor out?

Haven't done it myself, but maybe this helps (YouTube): step by step Heater fan blower motor change

Thanks, i have watched that video but im having real difficulty pivoting the motor clockwise to remove it. I can't get any hands up there to twist the thing.

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owlinbrum
PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 4:51 pm Up
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Do you have a new fan motor ready to replace it? It's a s*d to turn but doable with a little perseverance.

The reason I asked if you had a replacement ready is because when I did mine I found there was a small piece of plastic protruding from the edge of the unit which snapped off when I removed it. So essentially it's being prevented from turning as it clicks into place. If you have another unit you can look at, you may be able to locate it on the broken one, prise it slightly then then twist the old one out.

Otherwise it's serious effort and it should come out. I felt I needed lessons in being a contortionist getting into the footwell to do it!

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dannyboy-gti
PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 6:10 pm Up
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Have you removed the glovbox for access? I sprayed wd40 around the edge of my motor and left it a day, came away ok then
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Mack10
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 3:14 pm Up
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I've removed the heater blower motor and hooked it up briefly to a car battery, the motor spins. This really confuses me as i was almost certain the motor was broken. There is 14V reaching the blower motor in the car but it's not working?????

Anyone help please

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mtempsch
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 5:17 pm Up
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Mack10 wrote:
There is 14V reaching the blower motor in the car but it's not working?????

How is it grounded?

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Deckchair5
PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 5:35 am Up
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The blower motor receives supply voltage all the time it is turned on and it is the ground which is fed through the resister pack to give the various fan speeds. In the fastest 5 setting the ground goes directly to earth bypassing the resister pack and that is when your motor is working fine so it is the resister pack that is causing your problems and not the motor
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Mack10
PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:51 pm Up
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Deckchair5 wrote:
The blower motor receives supply voltage all the time it is turned on and it is the ground which is fed through the resister pack to give the various fan speeds. In the fastest 5 setting the ground goes directly to earth bypassing the resister pack and that is when your motor is working fine so it is the resister pack that is causing your problems and not the motor

I connected the blower motor to the cars blower motor output in regards to the positive. I then connected the earth straight from the battery to the blower motor. This didn't do anything. The motor didn't spin on any of the 5 setting with the car turned on or off. I then connected the blow motor direct to the car battery and it started to spin.

Would it be safe to assume the blower motor resistor is located in the positive wire?

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Mack10
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2016 3:58 pm Up
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Anyone got any help for me regarding this?

I connected a new blower fan resistor today and it still doesn't work. When i connect the multimeter to the blower fan connector input i get 12Volts fine. When i plug the connector into the blower motor it goes to 0V.???

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superfort
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 4:30 am Up
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Maybe make a long pair of leads and try connecting the fan to various places along the line? Maybe start with just before the resistor pack, then move up/down as necessary to eliminate any suspects. There's nothing much in that circuit other than the control knob and the resistor pack though. There's also a fuse/connector set in the dash that could be a bit dry, causing it to go open when actual current is drawn.
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Mack10
PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 1:02 pm Up
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UPDATE.

Fault has been found! It was a burnt out A/C fuse in the engine fuse box. Due to my lack of electrical knowledge i just assumed the fuses would be okay if 12V was getting through, i was wrong though.

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