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Forums › The Car › 206 Talk › 206 GTi trackday car - Advice, please!


 
 

206 GTi trackday car - Advice, please!
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DaveLondon
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 10:36 am Up
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Hi folks

A friend and I have bought a 2001 206 GTi to use as a shared trackday car, and we're looking for a bit of advice about some specifics. The car has had a lot of work done already (stripped, buckets, harnesses, suspension, exhaust), but we're looking to make it a bit more well-rounded and complete.

Apologies (as a newbie) if the questions are in the wrong place, but I thought it made sense to try and get them all into a single thread, rather than creating 4-5 different ones!

OK, here goes...
1. Brake pads. I had been looking at EBC Yellowstuff, as they have a good reputation and seem to be decent value (£60 from Demon Tweeks). Does anyone have any experience or recommendations?
2. Are there any small changes to the suspension (e.g. alternative anti-roll bar or strutbrace) that make a big difference on track?
3. We're looking at fast-road/trackday tyres (T1R, NS2 etc.). Does anyone have any recommendations?
4. More generally, are there any small modifications that can be done to improve the drive or power delivery?
5. Short-shifters. We've been looking at two types (the plate that bolts into the floor, and the replacement gearstick with relocated bush). Does either work significantly better?
6. How easy is it to bypass the aircon and PAS? Do shorter aux belts exist to let us do this?

Thanks so much in advance! I'll try to get a few photos of the car up when I get the chance.

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FrankAteMyName
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 2:06 pm Up
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Hi and welcome!

I'm not huge on this topic so sorry if I'm not much help.

2. front ARB off the GTi 180 should improve your handling a tad. It's 1mm thicker and gives just a little more stability IMO. The ARBs off the estate are actually 2mm thicker but hat might be a little overkill if you ask me. Swap the torsion bars for those out of the 180 as well and you'll see a nice stiff ride.

6. Shorter aux belts do exist but I can't remember where off the top of my head. I will post details here if I can find out. Instead of just bypassing them I'd recommend ripping them out because the aircon pump and the PAS on these are fairly weighty. I have a generic guide somewhere which may be of use.

Hope that helps a little with what you need to know

My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)

206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD

206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current

206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY)
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Edward
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:40 pm Up
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I'd avoid the front ARB but concentrate on springs, dampers, torsion bars and rear ARB.

I have a shorter belt to remove the air con. You will need the PAS though.

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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FrankAteMyName
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:58 pm Up
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I know you're very knowledgeable when it comes to these things. Why would you leave the front arb?
My cars:
206 Urban 1.4 8v 3dr '56 - China Blue - 70k Miles - Climate control retrofit, cruise control retrofit - Dead (Breaking)

206 GLX 1.4 8v 3dr '03 - 100k Miles - Obsidian Black - Black masked headlights + front fogs, Faster sunroof, Colour matched exterior trim - SOLD

206 2.0 GTI 138 '03 - 58k Miles - Onyx Black - 17" 180 Alloys - Current

206 2.0 GTi 138 '03 - 120k Miles - China Blue - New Track Toy (ON THE WAY)
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Edward
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 4:13 pm Up
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They encourage understeer whuch is nice and safe but doesn't necessarily make a better handling car.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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LeeThr
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 4:14 pm Up
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Depending upon the year of manufacture the 138's actually had a 1mm thicker front ARB than the 180's. I know my 2003 138 has.
 


gogs_macaulay wrote:
LeeThr wrote:
One Hundred million bazillion gatrillion pink rupee's
Shut it u stupid little f**k, what's the point in posting in all my treads being such a c***? Least I can afford a gti180, and to get the cam belt done!

So apparently everyone knows my financial situation? If I wanted a 180 I would have bought a 180 simples Smile

The garage
2003 - 206 GTi 138 - Moonstone Blue
2003 - 406 Coupé 2.2 HDi SE - Hyperion Blue
2000 - 206 2L HDi D-Turbo ECO - Cherry Red
1999 - 306 GTi-6 - Blue (haven't worked out if it's Nile or China yet)
1987 - 205 GTi 1.9 - Graphite Gray

I must be mad.....
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DaveLondon
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 4:22 pm Up
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Thank you all so much for the input - some interesting, if not conflicting, ideas.

I'll try to get the ARB measured when it comes back from my mechanic.

Any reason why I couldn't drive it without the PAS pump working?

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Edward
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 5:27 pm Up
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Steering will be very heavy!
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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spud_gti
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 5:49 pm Up
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Edward wrote:
Steering will be very heavy!

that actually made me laugh out loud, Very Happy

sounds like a fun project, get some pics up when you can

2004 GTI 180 - SOLD, 2000 GTI - SOLD, 2002 SW D TURBO - CURRENT
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neilneil2000
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 6:37 pm Up
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1. I am just about to go for a front brake upgrade to GTi 180 brakes and will be using Yellowstuff, all the research I have done seems to indicate they are well worth the money and the customer service at EBC is very good, so any problems and you should be in safe hands.
2. Focus on making the rear stiffer rather than the front. The car will naturally understeer but to be quick on track you need to dial that out as much as possible and the easiest way is to make the rear as stiff as possible.
3. I have used the Toyo T1Rs a fair bit and they are good, but if you are an aggressive driver you may find they overheat and set very hard. Definitely a good starting point though.
4. Gearbox oil change - often neglected and may be stealing a bhp or two
5. I bought this kit: peugeot-tuning-parts.c...-kit.html. The linkages are definitely worth it for a more direct and precise gearshift but I don't rate the short shift kit
6. AC is easy to do, and Peugeot sold versions of this engine in other cars without aircon so it's an off the shelf part. People have done PAS also, particularly when installing independent throttle bodies. You can then either just deal with the weighty steering or install an electric PAS pump out of another car.

Good luck!

(And where are you, maybe I will see you on track?!)

2000 (W) 206 GTi pre-plex RFR EW10J4
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DaveLondon
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 6:40 pm Up
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Edward wrote:
Steering will be very heavy!
I had sort of assumed that. It's a track only car, so it's hardly going to see much parallel parking.

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DaveLondon
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 6:47 pm Up
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neilneil2000 wrote:
1. I am just about to go for a front brake upgrade to GTi 180 brakes and will be using Yellowstuff, all the research I have done seems to indicate they are well worth the money and the customer service at EBC is very good, so any problems and you should be in safe hands.
2. Focus on making the rear stiffer rather than the front. The car will naturally understeer but to be quick on track you need to dial that out as much as possible and the easiest way is to make the rear as stiff as possible.
3. I have used the Toyo T1Rs a fair bit and they are good, but if you are an aggressive driver you may find they overheat and set very hard. Definitely a good starting point though.
4. Gearbox oil change - often neglected and may be stealing a bhp or two
5. I bought this kit: peugeot-tuning-parts.c...-kit.html. The linkages are definitely worth it for a more direct and precise gearshift but I don't rate the short shift kit
6. AC is easy to do, and Peugeot sold versions of this engine in other cars without aircon so it's an off the shelf part. People have done PAS also, particularly when installing independent throttle bodies. You can then either just deal with the weighty steering or install an electric PAS pump out of another car.

Good luck!

(And where are you, maybe I will see you on track?!)
Thanks for that. I've just ordered a set of Toyo R1R, so hopefully they will do the job.

I'm based in Central London, and sharing the car with a good mate. Hoping to get out in the next few weeks, starting with an airfield day.

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Edward
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:19 pm Up
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DaveLondon wrote:
Edward wrote:
Steering will be very heavy!
I had sort of assumed that. It's a track only car, so it's hardly going to see much parallel parking.

Don't underestimate the load on the wheel when cornering on track and what if you need to be quick with the steering if you need to catch oversteer?

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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neilneil2000
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:20 pm Up
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Cool. I am in Ipswich. I'd recommend the javelintrackdays Snetterton ones, and if you just want a shakedown then try Lydden Hill in Kent - you can just turn up on the day and pay £20 per 20 minute session.
2000 (W) 206 GTi pre-plex RFR EW10J4
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DaveLondon
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:25 pm Up
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Edward wrote:
DaveLondon wrote:
Edward wrote:
Steering will be very heavy!
I had sort of assumed that. It's a track only car, so it's hardly going to see much parallel parking.

Don't underestimate the load on the wheel when cornering on track and what if you need to be quick with the steering if you need to catch oversteer?
Interesting. Have you tried it?

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