#16: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 1:36 pm ---- Map sensor is on the front of the inlet. Sounds like you found it because all the others are hidden under the plastic bit on the TB.
MAP sensor
TB with idle control valve missing.
#17: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Davels, Location: NorfolkPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:48 am ---- Yeah thas it. I saw a picture online of Pug MAP having a yellow resistor looking thing in the hole, but it was too similar for it not to be right. Idle control valve is a check too. Cleaned the opening as well as the rubber pusher and shaft.
I removed the unit on the right of the TB which is still attached on you second picture but Had no idea what is was so put it back
And after a little bit of time I finally removed the 5mm of carbon deposits on the plenum. I know this won't make a differnace as it doesn't effect the opening. But it made me feel better.
Thanks for the pictures, it's set my mind at rest that i've got the right bits.
#18: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:04 am ---- The block with the wiring to it on the right is the throttle position sensor.
#19: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Username, Location: NewportPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:26 pm ---- I have exactly the same problem on my GTi (W 2000). Cold starting is a right pain now. It Idles at 1000-1100 rpm & she shudders & shakes. After idling for 5 minutes she settles down to 750-800 rpm & is as smooth as silk.
As long as the engine is warm she starts up lovely, but during the last cold snap we just had it was a nightmare in the mornings.
I have now changed the sparks, map & engine temp sensor. Plus lots of sensors have also been cleaned up.
I believe the problem is now definately the lifters, or the oil. Took my car to a local garage back last summer for a service & the problem started roughly the same time. I believe he put the wrong oil in (too thick) so on cold starts its too thick for the lifters to bleed & pump until the oil warms up. Either that or my lifters are on their way out.
I sympathise with you as its doing my head in now as well.
#20: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: MrBSI, Location: What's it to you? ? ?Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:31 pm ---- This is the info from Pug about the hydraulic tappet issue for early car's
#21: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Username, Location: NewportPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:37 pm ---- I believe i read somewhere as well that some Pug garages were swapping the oil ducts & lifters over from the 2.2 EW12J4 thus also curing the problem. Does anyone no if this is correct?
#22: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:53 pm ---- Well mine spluttered on startup as soon as I fitted the Longman cylinder head. When the new cams and throttle bodies were fitted some new genuine Peugeot lifters were fitted and it's not spluttered since.
Only downside is the genuine lifters are over £300.
#23: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Davels, Location: NorfolkPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:08 am ---- So I cleaned the throttle body, Idle control valve and map sensor. Replaced the spark plugs with boshe super fours and fitted a brand new coil pack.
Also the car has have a brand new exhaust including cat.
What else could this be before lifters? I've spent enough on the cars suspension and tyres over the past week or so and 300more without fitting is out of the question.
I already have to find 500quid for cambelt change and major service due in a month or so.
#24: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Davels, Location: NorfolkPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:05 am ---- Also, auto oil level indicator never seems to be accurate, it varies day to day even when parked in the same spot. Am i using the wrong oil to top it up etc. I've been told to use 10w40 so i've been using castrol magnetec. Bu tas the has only just clocked 50000miles should I be using 5w40? Would this help with the cold start probably?
#25: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:50 am ---- 5W40 is what Peugeot recommend, won't make any difference really. I'd never rely on the dashboard oil guage.
#26: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: macj, Location: EssexPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 12:05 pm ---- I would give the engine a Forte flush and replace the oil with the recommended 5-40W oil...... this would be your cheapest next step but dont expect to get instant results..... after you have changed the flushed oil you should take it on a long run
#27: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Username, Location: NewportPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 2:45 pm ---- You could also try changing the Air Temperature Sensor located just above the Map Sensor, they are only about £6-£10.
This sensor could cause cold idling issues if damaged / dirty.
If the intake air temperature sensor is not reading accurately, the PCM may think the air is warmer or colder than it actually is, causing it to miscalculate the air/fuel mixture. The result may be a lean or rich fuel mixture that causes driveability symptoms such as poor idle quality when cold, stumble on cold acceleration, and surging when the engine is warm.
#28: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 3:14 pm ---- Air temp sensor won't make a massive difference unless it was really giving dodgy outputs.
For every 10 degrees increase in temp you need about 3% less fuel.
#29: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Davels, Location: NorfolkPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 4:29 pm ---- In the picture above am i right in thinking that grey plug on the bottom of the TB is the air temp sensor?
I cleaned this area and the problem improved for a few days. for 15quid it's has got to be worth a shot. One is on the way just in case.
#30: Re: 3 cylinder 140 2L :( Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:18 am ---- The grey plug on the front of the TB is the air temp sensor. The grey one on the manifold is the map sensor.
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