#1: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault...FIXED Author: Mike_XS, Location: SouthamptonPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 5:12 am ---- Ok, before I start, I have done a search. But I can only find information on things I already know.
My locks on the 206 are bouncing again. This happened about a year and a half ago. I took it to a garage to get it sorted and they wanted to charge me too much. So I ended up replacing the solenoid myself. I think it was the drivers door that I did, but it was replaced with a 2nd hand part.
What I would like to find out is, how can I identify which door is causing the fault?
If I disconnect one solenoid at a time would that work? Or would they bounce because one is disconnected? Last edited by Mike_XS on Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:52 am; edited 1 time in total
#2: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: Edward, Location: In the garagePosted: Tue May 31, 2011 5:14 am ---- I think that would work. I'd start disconnecting the tailgate connector as it's easiest. Will the doors shut with the connector at the hinges disconnected?
#3: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: Mike_XS, Location: SouthamptonPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 5:16 am ----
Edward wrote:
Will the doors shut with the connector at the hinges disconnected?
I would assume so. I'd only be disconnecting the power.
#4: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: Mike_XS, Location: SouthamptonPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 3:25 pm ---- Can anyone confirm that this will work? Or suggest an alternative method?
#5: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: V9977, Location: Athens, GreecePosted: Tue May 31, 2011 4:28 pm ---- It will indeed work.
When the lock is closed it gives an open-circuit signal to the BSi.
So simply disconecting the connector is a way of checking if that one is at fault.
Use some good quality silicon grease spray before re-fitting a used part like a lock
and you'll get better milage off-it.
#6: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: Mike_XS, Location: SouthamptonPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:51 am ----
V9977 wrote:
It will indeed work.
When the lock is closed it gives an open-circuit signal to the BSi.
So simply disconecting the connector is a way of checking if that one is at fault.
Use some good quality silicon grease spray before re-fitting a used part like a lock
and you'll get better milage off-it.
Thanks
#7: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: Mike_XS, Location: SouthamptonPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:13 pm ---- It didn't work. The locks still bounce no matter which lock is connected.
#8: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: V9977, Location: Athens, GreecePosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:19 pm ----
Mike_XS wrote:
It didn't work. The locks still bounce no matter which lock is connected.
Checked the boot?
How many doors do you have?
Is your battery flat by any remote chance?
#9: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: Mike_XS, Location: SouthamptonPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:21 pm ---- Yup. Checked everything. It's 3 door. Nah battery is fine.
#10: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: V9977, Location: Athens, GreecePosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:31 pm ----
Mike_XS wrote:
Yup. Checked everything. It's 3 door. Nah battery is fine.
Checked the connectors if there is a debris short between any pins (longshot).
Have you tried resetting the BSi if multiplexed?
Otherwise I'm stumped then..
EDIT: Maybe its to do with the key-barell switch (also attached to the lock mech.) and this method of checking doesn't work.
#11: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: Mike_XS, Location: SouthamptonPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:51 am ---- I've managed to fix the locks!
I opened each door and closed the lock with a screwdriver, found that the drivers side was pretty stiff. Got the WD40 out it, wiggled it about and as if by magic all is again working
#12: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: V9977, Location: Athens, GreecePosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:02 am ----
Mike_XS wrote:
I've managed to fix the locks!
I opened each door and closed the lock with a screwdriver, found that the drivers side was pretty stiff. Got the WD40 out it, wiggled it about and as if by magic all is again working
#13: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault...FIXED Author: Rich_Enduro, Location: DorsetPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 12:56 pm ---- I've had this problem for years. was ripped off by the peugeot garage (went when the locks were bouncing and told they couldn't look and to book it in later in the week, then when they ran the tests, it was fine and they charged me £50 for telling me there was nothing wrong!! ggrrr) so never going back there! i've been spraying the locks with wd40 to keep them working but its getting too bad now, i've had one 2nd hand lock and feel i now need to get a new one. is there anywhere online that does new improved after market locks? please don't tellme my only option is to go back to peugeot!!
cheers
#14: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault... Author: davieboy86, Location: Kent,Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:26 am ----
Mike_XS wrote:
I've managed to fix the locks!
I opened each door and closed the lock with a screwdriver, found that the drivers side was pretty stiff. Got the WD40 out it, wiggled it about and as if by magic all is again working
#15: Re: Identifying which locking solenoid is at fault...FIXED Author: sahan8286, Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:10 am ---- hi,
my car showing error message in Rear Left Door. how can i fixed that?
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