#1: MOT Checklist. Author: -Dave-, Location: North ManchesterPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:31 am ---- PRE MOT CHECKLIST
These are most of the thing's you can check yourself prior to a MOT visit. Below is a list of the most common failures in 2007 so you can see silly thing's like making sure you light's work can make all the difference.
1) Tyres are above 1.6mm depth in a continuous band across the centre ¾ of the tyres width
2) Inflate tyres to the correct pressure
3) Rubber is not badly perished
4) Deep cuts to sidewalls
5) Bulges in the tyre wall
6) Front tyres are the same size
7) Rear tyres are the same size
Wheels are not badly damaged, cracked or distorted
9) No wheel nuts missing
10) Wheels secured to vehicle with no free play
11) Windscreen chips above 10mm in drivers line of sight (roughly width of steering wheel)
12) Windscreen chips above 40mm in the area swept by the wipers
13) Scratching to the glass that limits the drivers view of the road
14) Wipers clear the screen effectively for entire length
15) Rubber not split or perished
16) Wipers securely attached to arm
17) Washer jets work
18) Headlights main beam
19) Headlights dipped beam
20) Sidelights front
21) Sidelights rear
22) Indicators: front
23) Indicators: rear
24) Indicators: side repeaters
25) Brake lights
26) Number plate lights (rear only)
27) Reverse light (not part of MOT but worth checking)
28) Rear fog light
29) Rear fog light ‘tell-tale’ operational (indication on the dash or switch that the rear fog is on)
30) Hazard circuit (check separately from indicators)
31) Check bulbs shine the correct colour (coloured coating can peel with age)
32) Light fittings are secure
33) Light fittings are not badly cracked or damaged
34) Headlights produce sufficient light (i.e. plastic not clouded or reflective material deteriorated)
35) Light systems do not interfere with each other (i.e. when you operate the indicators the brake lights don’t start flashing)
36) Two rear reflectors fitted either side of the car must operate as intended
37) Steering must move freely from lock to lock
38) Steering wheel is in good condition
39) Steering wheel securely attached to steering column
40) Power steering must be operational if fitted
41) Fuel cap locks securely in Place
42) Fuel cap rubber seal not split or perished
43) Exhaust securely mounted
44) No blows (holes) in the exhaust
45) Horn operational
46) Horn loud enough to attract attention
47) Horn control easily reached by the driver
48) Horn tone uniform (i.e. not musical air horn with varied tone)
49) Mirrors and glass secure
50) Glass not cracked or smashed and limiting drivers view
51) Body free of protrusions that could cause injury
52) No excessive corrosion
53) Front doors work from inside and out
54) Rear doors need to work if other parts of the test cannot be completed without their operation. (i.e. rear belts)
55) Boot closes and latches securely
56) Bonnet closes and latches securely
57) ABS warning lamp goes out after ignition sequence
58) Pedal rubbers give good control of pedals
59) Handbrake holds car sufficiently
60) Footbrake does not go all the way to the floor
61) Brake pipes are free from corrosion
62) No brake fluid leaks including brake servo & master cylinder
63) Number plates secured & not cracked
64) Number plates not faded or hidden by dirt
65) Standard numbers and letters with standard spacing
66) Seatbelts latch and fasten securely
67) Seat belts in good condition (not split or frayed)
68) Seat belts retract into reel
69) Seats secured down properly
70) Seats back will stay securely in an upright position
71) Emissions – If the car has only been used for running around town, take it for a long run to clear away the sooty deposits that can build up in the engine
72) VIN (Vehicle registration number) present & secure to the car body
73) VIN not dirty, faded or obscured
74) VIN has legible & uniform letter / number spacing
75) Make sure you have enough fuel in the tank to make it through the test!
Later on I will be adding some check's you can do yourself to the brake's and suspension so keep checking back.
I have sourced this information from the internet and previous experience as a assistant to a MOT tester. Last edited by -Dave- on Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:09 am; edited 1 time in total
#2: Re: MOT Checklist. Author: Lewis, Location: Isle Of WightPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:32 am ---- should be stickied in FAQ's
#3: Re: MOT Checklist. Author: Lee, Location: EnglandPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:06 am ---- Or just read thru the online MOT testing manual that VOSA make available to the public
#4: Re: MOT Checklist. Author: -Dave-, Location: North ManchesterPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:10 am ----
Lee wrote:
Or just read thru the online MOT testing manual that VOSA make available to the public
Come on Lee we know that's to much work for some people
#5: Re: MOT Checklist. Author: E5GDM, Location: EssexPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 10:57 am ---- I never knew that a locking petrol cap was needed for an MOT!
#6: Re: MOT Checklist. Author: Chris180, Location: northumberlandPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 10:58 am ---- good post, should be stickied
#7: Re: MOT Checklist. Author: -Dave-, Location: North ManchesterPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:10 am ----
E5GDM wrote:
I never knew that a locking petrol cap was needed for an MOT!
It has to lock securely in place. Edited post to reflect this.
#8: Re: MOT Checklist. Author: Twidly, Location: Home - Norfolk, Uni - PrestonPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:57 am ---- This is awesome. Cheers! (:
#9: Re: MOT Checklist. Author: Callum206, Location: West SussexPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 12:51 pm ---- This will help me a lot
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Wheels are not badly damaged, cracked or distorted
