#1: Spraying parts Author: danlouiee, Location: Plymouth, DevonPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:16 pm ---- Been to Halfords tonight in prep for tomorrow spray and wrap session! I bought some clear lacquer, prep wipes, assorted wet n dry paper, cherry red paint, and red Primer.
Firstly if I'm going to use the primer elsewhere does it matter it's red or have I got to use corresponding colours? Ie red primer red paint?
Secodly I looked at the silver paint and it says the only code is EZR and mine is EYC do Halfords not stock this code?
Finally any major tips or tricks? I don't mind making a trip down there at I want a jelly belly blueberry air freshener;)
Thanks
#2: Re: Spraying parts Author: NorthantsBen, Location: Raunds, NorthamptonshirePosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:19 pm ---- a nice little how-to for a read might come in handy........ www.206info.co.uk/Foru...21392.html
as for primer most of the time i use gray primer myself, but if you look on the can of paint they normally suggest what type of primer to use on the back.
#3: Re: Spraying parts Author: danlouiee, Location: Plymouth, DevonPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:23 pm ---- I have read it but it doesn't answer my primer colour question?!
Been to Halfords tonight in prep for tomorrow spray and wrap session! I bought some clear lacquer, prep wipes, assorted wet n dry paper, cherry red paint, and red Primer.
Firstly if I'm going to use the primer elsewhere does it matter it's red or have I got to use corresponding colours? Ie red primer red paint?
Secodly I looked at the silver paint and it says the only code is EZR and mine is EYC do Halfords not stock this code?
Finally any major tips or tricks? I don't mind making a trip down there at I want a jelly belly blueberry air freshener;)
Thanks
Halfords do stock eyc normally, could only have platinum silver on the can though. However halfords paint is notorious for being a bad colour match.
#5: Re: Spraying parts Author: danlouiee, Location: Plymouth, DevonPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:36 pm ---- May just gloss black the side strips and front and back them, suits the black and silver theme!
#6: Re: Spraying parts Author: Danny., Location: PeterboroughPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 4:58 pm ---- Mine was a mix of platinum and aluminium silver i cant tell the difference... mine is ezr.... I used grey primer.... and wouldnt use anything else but grey and white with silver.
#7: Re: Spraying parts Author: jimjam19927, Location: PortsmouthPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 1:00 am ---- This is a guide Ste gave me to spraying sp arches:
Preparation
You'll need to key the surface before you spray anything onto them, use something around the 600-800 grit mark, wet and dry (Use the paper wet!) give each SP Arch a very light sand, just to key the surface so the primer will stick to it better..
Once you've keyed each arch, you then need to wash them down to get any dust or dirt off them, then dry them thoroughly, and when I say thoroughly I mean it lol, the tiniest bit of water left on an arch anywhere WILL eventually bubble and flake the spray. - A good paper towel dry and a long blast with a hairdryer usually does the trick
Primer
Now there dry, get some plastic primer, any will do as long as it's plastic primer! Put one very light mist coat over the whole outward facing side of the SP Arch (The side you will see when they're on the car) To do a mist coat with a rattle can, you hold the can around 6-8inches away (in height) from the item your spraying, and hold it slightly away from one side of the arch, then press the spray nozzle and swoop the can over the whole item to get a nice even coat.
Leave it to tack dry for about 5 mins (Mist coats take no time to dry) then go ahead and do the same again a few times.
Once you have 3-4 mist coats you should be able to do a nice even coat over the whole thing, use the same distance away, and always start spraying OFF the item your spraying, otherwise you could end up with blobs, this time though, use a slower movement over the SP arch, but not too slow otherwise you'll end up with runs in your spray. Leave this coat for a good 15-20 mins and then do a few more of the same until you can tell you have an even solid coverage over the whole SP Arches (No original colour / plastic showing through)
Once you have a good even coat, it's time to leave them to dry/cure fully.. This will take a good 4-5 hours with the temperatures we're having just now.
Colour Coat
After the primer has cured it’s time for the next step, get some 1200grit wet and dry, again use it wet, and lightly sand the whole area again, don't go too wild otherwise you'll go through the primer and have to start all over again, all your doing is smoothing it out a tad and keying it again ready for the colour layer.
Again after sanding you'll need to clean & dry as you did before the primer.
Now I've noticed you've got a silver car, so because of that I'd advise again to do a good mist coat, again as you did with the primer, leaving 10-15 mins in between each one, do about 4 of these, and then follow on from that with slightly thicker coats of colour leaving 30-40 mins in between each..
Once you have full colour coverage and can’t see no primer through the colour it's time to leave it to dry and cure again, when I did mine I just left it overnight in a warm room.
Clear Coat / Lacquer
Again once it's all cured it's time to literally get some balls and sand away yet again, get hold of some 1500 grit wet and dry, using it wet as usual, give it all a nice light sand down, and I seriously do mean light sand down! You’re attempting to get the finish as smooth as possible, without going through to the primer, and keying the colour coat ready for the lacquer all at the same time (Sounds daunting I know but its true lol!)
Again, once you've done that, you need to wash and dry as normal.
Now with the clear coat, its abit different, you don’t need or want a mist coat, as it won’t do anything for the finish you get.. You want a nice even coat, not too thin, and defiantly not too thick, too thin and you get underlying pimples, too thick and you get nasty runs! P.S. The pimples are easier to solve than runs, so if your worried do lighter coats than you think are needed.
With the Clear Coat you want quite a lot of coats, I personally did about 6-7 on the things I've sprayed as when you do the finishing / flatting you take off quite abit of it
Between each coat that you do leave a good 40 mins to an hour to let it dry enough not to run with the next coat. Once you feel you've done enough layers leave it to cure, I left mine in a rather warm (could say hot) room for a good day or two, I've been known to leave it longer, or even put the parts on the car after a days’ worth of drying and then not do the finishing for a week! (When parts are professionally sprayed, the paint is baked onto the car in a massive oven, obviously home DIY spraying doesn’t allow this, so you need to leave extra time to make sure it has properly set)
Finishing
The best thing to do to finish the paintwork and get it amazingly glossy and mirror like is to follow the guide I put up on here, it's probably the best way to describe it and show you what to do as it has pictures and quite a lot of information on it. www.206info.co.uk/Foru...21392.html
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