#1: Good battery to buy? Author: karimali831, Location: EnglandPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 3:52 pm ---- I have bought a new battery from the AA to replace the old which lasted for a good 8 years from factory. This AA battery only lasted 10 months! They tested it for 20 minutes and found it was no good so under warranty they replaced with a new AA battery but I am sure the same will happen.. so looking to get a decent battery, any recommendations?
#2: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: richpowell91, Location: Melton Mowbray LeicestershirePosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 3:58 pm ---- Varta or Bosch are the market leaders
#3: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: macca1411, Location: Westhoughton, LancashirePosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 5:11 pm ----
richpowell91 wrote:
Varta or Bosch are the market leaders
Both usually come with a 4 or 5 year guarantee.
15% off at ECP in January. (BATTERY15)
#4: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: karimali831, Location: EnglandPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 5:48 pm ---- Bosch S5 looks like the one, even with the 15% off at ECP, still a lot cheaper elsewhere.
Thanks
#5: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 6:09 pm ---- You may have had a one off. I would keep the £60 - £85 in your pocket and see what happens. Most batteries now have a minimum 3 year warranty so you get another freebee if it happens again. If it happens again I would push for free membership as well as free battery for the inconvenience.
A few other thoughts:-
Have you recently changed your driving frequency or duration and the car isn't being run long enough to keep it charged.
Have you had a new CD player fitted. Some, even on standby, have quite a high current draw.
Did the AA check the charging system for under or over charging? it could be a charge fault.
#6: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: chuckstar34, Location: London/Worcester/ GrimsbyPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 6:26 pm ---- Bosch , Varta are good but ive gone Yuasa recently and found them brilliant. Good Crank amps and hold a charge well even on a car that was stored for 8 months over a winter as well and it still cranked like crazy to get it started again.
Im sold on them anyway.
My bikes all have had Yuasa as well. Even my Race bike had a race spec light weight one. Never failed me.
#7: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: karimali831, Location: EnglandPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 6:39 pm ----
kandlbarrett wrote:
You may have had a one off. I would keep the £60 - £85 in your pocket and see what happens. Most batteries now have a minimum 3 year warranty so you get another freebee if it happens again. If it happens again I would push for free membership as well as free battery for the inconvenience.
A few other thoughts:-
Have you recently changed your driving frequency or duration and the car isn't being run long enough to keep it charged.
Have you had a new CD player fitted. Some, even on standby, have quite a high current draw.
Did the AA check the charging system for under or over charging? it could be a charge fault.
I am temporarily working at pizza hut delivering pizza, very short journeys so this could be something. And the battery is draining a lot faster because a lot more electrics are being used which makes the battery unsuitable for the car.
The battery was totally flat after a 50 minute journey anyway where I waited to pick someone up and then it was totally flat 10 minutes after.
#8: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: bezford, Location: darlingtonPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 7:34 pm ---- Something wrong because ive had batterys that have been fully drained and after jumping then driving for twenty mins that has been enuf to put life enuf to start on its own after that...
Did you know that its better for the battery and it will charge quicker if thete is a drain on the battery while it is charging...for instance you are driving after jumping a flat battery then as u drive put the lites on..the stereo on..the heater on..the ac on..etc.etc.and it will charge better and sooner...than the charge alone...
#9: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: Mattie-RS, Location: A Track near you ;)Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 7:38 pm ----
#10: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 8:47 pm ---- The comment by bezford is wrong. If the battery did charge faster there is something odd with the charging system. It is NOT due to there being a load on the battery. The battery is in parallel with both the charge and the load; not in series so the battery doesn't "see" or "pass" the extra current. Even GCSE electronics will teach you this.
Having lights (lites?) on and other ancillary equipment may be better for the battery but only because that is probably reducing the charge going into the battery. A flat battery charged by the alternator can overheat and cause the internal plates to buckle. If the plates buckle and short that will destroy the battery. Also the rapid charging can quickly boil off the electrolyte causing other damage. NOTE: some light boiling near end of charge is beneficial as it mixes the electrolyte.
When you are stranded with a completely flat battery and jump start your car charging the battery via the alternator is the only option but is one of the worst things you can do to your battery.
Manufacturers maximum recommended charge rates for a wet cell lead acid battery is it's 20hr rate divided by 8. Though to simplify the maths most people use the 20hr rate divided by 10. So, using the simpler formula, your 75AH battery should be charged at 7.5A not the 60A plus that your alternator can provide.
That is the basics; if you want to talk about the effects of battery internal resistance; avoiding stratification of electrolyte; the benefit of a constant voltage float charge; the advantage of equalising charge and how to best avoid plate sulphation then go elsewhere as I can't bother with all the typing.
However, with a modern car battery and modern charging system most car starter batteries will last between 5 and 10 years. You don't think manufacturers guarantee batteries for 3 years (5 years for more expensive ones) if they aren't sure they will last that long - or do you?
#11: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: Timon2210, Location: PalestinePosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:05 am ---- I would check if your alternator is working well,because along journey with 50 min,would make it alive,but if something is wrong with your alternator,or alternator belt is not tight the right way,you will have a poor charging,so check this first before u buy a new battery,since they replaced it,you got the chance to see what exactly wrong.
#12: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: karimali831, Location: EnglandPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:57 am ---- Alternator was tested on same day and fully charged the battery in 10 minutes, nothing wrong with the alternator. After the battery was tested I was able to start the engine no problem. Can't remember exactly what he said but these results failed the test at full charge:-
on old battery: 11,44v - measured 93 - rating 460
on new battery: 12,66v - measured 375 - rating 460
#13: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: macca1411, Location: Westhoughton, LancashirePosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 6:18 am ----
karimali831 wrote:
Alternator was tested on same day and fully charged the battery in 10 minutes, nothing wrong with the alternator. After the battery was tested I was able to start the engine no problem. Can't remember exactly what he said but these results failed the test at full charge:-
on old battery: 11,44v - measured 93 - rating 460
on new battery: 12,66v - measured 375 - rating 460
Are they the figures that the alternator is kicking out when the engine is running?
My alternator boots out 14.4 volts when I put the multimeter across the battery terminals.
#14: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:29 am ---- karimali831 figures are right for a bad and good battery that is NOT being charged.
macca1411 your figures are correct for a battery that is being charged by an alternator.
After a battery has been charged it need 3 - 4 hrs to "settle" down to it's final voltage. That should be between 12.6 and 12.7V for a fully charged battery and the electrolyte specific gravity should be 1.265.
NOTE: changes in ambient temperature will affect the above figures for a charged battery.
I imagine that the measured 93 and measured 375 are the CCA (cold cranking amp) or the battery's ability to deliver enough current to turn the engine.
NOTE: ambient temperature will affect these readings.
#15: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: bezford, Location: darlingtonPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:54 am ---- Right...we all like to prove were not dummies but kandibarrett mate..your full of shxt...just because u quote loads of figures does not make u a damned authority on every subject which is what u seem to be proffesing...it is a well known fact that a battery wth a small drain on it will charge better than one without....also...u really need to stop following on after all my posts...its embarassing and its like u cant think for yourself....if anybody doubts this just check out all my recent posts...this guys like a fuckxn limpet..
#16: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: bezford, Location: darlingtonPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 9:00 am ---- AND kandi...whether its in series or parralel doesnt affect the charging...im not suggesting it increases the voltage it just takes a charge better...your so full of shxt.
#17: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: Mattie-RS, Location: A Track near you ;)Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 10:11 am ---- When the battery is charging via the alternator there wouldn't be a load on the battery as the power comes from the engine.
Who mentions changing voltage? Doesn't work like that
#18: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: Lecktorious, Location: ScotlandPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:44 pm ---- Is your gubbed battery anything to do with those HID's you fitted which also played havoc with your ECU?
#19: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: karimali831, Location: EnglandPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:29 pm ----
Lecktorious wrote:
Is your gubbed battery anything to do with those HID's you fitted which also played havoc with your ECU?
Not sure but got rid of those HIDs a while ago and replaced with DRL headlights. With the old battery, after every journey the level would change from 12v to "Low" in a moment of a few mins with "Economy Mode Active" showing up. Now the indicator is on high-mid and "Economy Mode Active" not showing up so soon.
#20: Re: Good battery to buy? Author: lee1985, Location: North WestPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:35 pm ---- I go with what the other guy said save your money and just keep it. It might e an inconvenience waiting for the AA and breaking down but if its in warranty keep taking advantage and eventually you can ask for something more for the fact that they are clearly naff batteries tht aren't suitable for your car. I have just had an AA battery put in mine only a week ago, 540 CCA. The old one was 480 and was only kicking out 143CCA when it was tested!
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