#1: 2.0 HDI Aux Tensioner Author: rlees85, Location: DaventryPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:38 pm ---- Has anyone changed an Aux Tensioner on a 2.0 HDI? Cant seem to find much in search other than people saying "my aux tensioner is broken" and then "today I changed it now its fixed!" lol
The Haynes seems to me making a right meal out of it with locking pins and manual tensioner setting procedure and then settings tools and all sorts...
My aux tensioner is moving in and out a bit and squeaking a tiny bit so I am going to change it, with the manual tensioner also and the crank pulley. I am fine with the crank pulley I just have no idea about the tensioners and the setting procedure...
Anyone done this before/any ideas?
Thanks...
#2: Re: 2.0 HDI Aux Tensioner Author: DREWDEN, Location: huddersfieldPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 7:43 pm ---- It is self adjusting, just change the belt and you should be fine, squeeling should go.
#3: Re: 2.0 HDI Aux Tensioner Author: rlees85, Location: DaventryPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:35 am ---- Its 100% a tensioner sqeak not a belt one, plus the tensioner is moving slightly in and out towards the block. Going to do manual tensioner and crank pulley whilst im down there just wondered if anyone knew of a more straight forward tensioning procedure... ?? If not I'll *try* to follow the haynes the best I can :/ cheers !
#4: Re: 2.0 HDI Aux Tensioner Author: DREWDEN, Location: huddersfieldPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 1:20 pm ---- 2 man job.
Working from the top, long bar and the right socket for the tensioner nut, pull towards the front of the car, while someone behind the front drivers wheel, with the arch lining off, puts in a small drill where the hole is lined up, then leg go of the tension, the belt will be slack.
Pulleys can be worked on.
#5: Re: 2.0 HDI Aux Tensioner Author: rlees85, Location: DaventryPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 3:42 am ---- I got the pulleys today and I must say the Haynes now makes a lot more sense all of a sudden. To people without a Haynes (renewal of both aux tensioners and crank pulley):
1. Jack up car, remove front wheel & arch lining
2. Remove Aux Belt (2 man job ideally but can be done with one) put a spanner on the top automatic tensioner nut and push towards the back of the car, this will allow you to slide belt of PAS pump and then to completely remove the aux belt.
3. Remove crank bolt using whatever method you prefer. I will be using the starter motor method like I always used to on my 406/306.
4. Remove both manual and automatic tensioners.
5. Install manual tensioner with the bolt finger tight
6. Install auto tensioner tight (or correct torque). My new auto tensioner came already locked in the correct hole (leftmost for setting correct tension, rightmost just for removing the aux belt) make sure you pin the left hole.
7. Install aux belt (route images can be found very easily on google images).
8. Apply tension using the manual tensioner until there is no force on the locking pin on the automatic tensioner. When this has been done tighen up the main bolt to the manual tensioner to correct torque/etc.
9. Remove locking pin to auto tensioner.
10. Turn over by hand (or in my case just run the engine for 30 seconds) and check the locking pin can still go through the auto tensioner leftmost hole (in other words make sure the tension setting hole is still lined up with the hole on the back plate). If you cannot, re-set tension using manual tensioner and repeat this step until it still lines up. If you can, your done!
11. Lining back on, wheel back on, lower car from jack, have fun!
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and then "today I changed it now its fixed!" 
lol
