#1: Wheel cylinder nut/connection and pipe issue? Author: Triggerfish, Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:45 am ---- Got a small problem:
Where the wheel cylinder gets connected to the nut that connects the metal pipe, just can't get this nut/connection to loose as the nut is wearing out.
What are the alternatives:
1. cut the metal pipe, replace that last section of metal pipe to the flexible connection, or
2. ?
Q: Does that nut/connection bit comes with that pipe or is it separate?.....BUT I don't think that nut/connection can be removed as the end bit of the pipe is shaped so the nut/connection cannot pass through.
#2: Re: Wheel cylinder nut/connection and pipe issue? Author: macca1411, Location: Westhoughton, LancashirePosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 12:24 pm ---- The nut is held onto the pipe by the flare at the end of the pipe, and to replace the nut on the pipe you need a flaring tool. This also shapes the pipe end so that it makes a good seal to the cylinder.
Are you trying to undo it using a standard spanner? The best thing to use is a brake pipe spanner.
Are you trying to undo it using a standard spanner?
yes...without success. Stuck.
Quote::
The best thing to use is a brake pipe spanner.
brake pipe spanner? you got to be joking me! Didn't know there was such a thing!!
The other one came loose ok but the second one (other side) is now stuck dead.....hence am here.
not yet but if I do, the nut will be badly damaged.....maybe last option.
I doubt even with the brake pipe spanner will work because one of the bolts which secures the wheel cylinder couldn't be turned with a FULL socket, had to cut a slot at the centre of the bolt and used a screwdriver bit, then half of the bolt broke off! and that is with a lot of WD40!.....just TOO much rust!
What would you guys do here?
#7: Re: Wheel cylinder nut/connection and pipe issue? Author: gazza82, Location: South BucksPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 4:37 am ---- dribble plus-gas down the sides of the brake pipe nut and leave if for a day or two to soak in. Then carefully try with a brake spanner or an open-ended spanner that is a really tight on the nut. Be very careful though as if it twists the metal feed pipe you will have to replace the complete section.
I assume you are talking about the rear brake cylinders so that would only be back to the flexible section above the rear axle so not such a big deal.
#8: Re: Wheel cylinder nut/connection and pipe issue? Author: Triggerfish, Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 5:13 am ----
Quote::
dribble plus-gas
eh, sorry, am not familiar with this term, what does it mean?
Am going to buy a brake spanner first and see if that works. tbh, don't think it will loose it anyway.
Quote::
I assume you are talking about the rear brake cylinders so that would only be back to the flexible section above the rear axle so not such a big deal.
yes, the thing is if this nut/connection cannot be loosen, the nut will be further damaged and will need to be replaced, hence the pipe end (flare bit) will need to be cut off and redone with a special tool, which I really don't want to get involved.....but if the nut is badly damaged, then the nut will need to be removed and replaced.....yet the pipe flare is in the way. Therefore the pipe end will need to be cut off......damage limitation really.
Furthermore, thinking of cutting it off at the pipe closest to the nut as an alternative.....then buy the flare tool and nut and make a new connection.....then the question is, can the brake pipe be bent as it is now shorter? or do I need to buy a new piece of pipe?
#9: Re: Wheel cylinder nut/connection and pipe issue? Author: gazza82, Location: South BucksPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:52 am ---- Get hold of a can of plus-gas or a penetrating fluid ... not WD-40, that's a waste of time on this ... Plus Gas is a penetrating oil which helps with rust and other gunk on stiff nuts and bolts. Get it down the side of the threads on the brake pipe nut and let it penetrate and break down the rust that is probably preventing it from breaking free. It may take two or three soaks to really do the work, so don't expect instant changes.
The brake pipe spanner is good move anyway as it surrounds most of the nut apart from the small gap to get past the pipe.
If you cut or snap the pipe, I'd just buy a new replacement pipe from the dealers and a replacement brake cylinder. It will be relatively short and easier to fit as it would only go from the brake cylinder to the flexible pipe at the rear. Follow the metal pipe back from the brake assembly and you will find the flexible pipe I'm taking about. It's up near the underside of the body about the rear axle.
You won't be able to shorten the existing pipe and the expense of having a custom piece made up or bodged to join two bits together wouldn't be worth it given the cost of replacements and given you are talking about a safety issue.
#11: Re: Wheel cylinder nut/connection and pipe issue? Author: Triggerfish, Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 5:51 pm ---- mmmm, sounds promising!.....this plus-gas sounds really up for the job, need to give that a try.....
update in due course.
#12: Re: Wheel cylinder nut/connection and pipe issue? Author: Triggerfish, Posted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:06 am ---- NO!, it is not working, even with plus-gas and flare/brake pipe spanner. Nut is simply not moving and is now rounded.
Need to cut this nut connection off I think? and repair the end flare or renew the complete copper pipe itself?
Anyone know what the best solution is? What about the flare tool for the copper pipe? What pipe sizes is it? What flare size is it? What is the nut connection piece towards the flare/wheel cylinder called?
How difficult is it to do this?
#13: Re: Wheel cylinder nut/connection and pipe issue? Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 4:36 pm ---- There is a small chance that you will damage the calliper getting the nut off so do that first. it sounds like mole grips, small stilson or cut the pipe and remove the calliper then with the assistance of a vice get that nut out. I wouldn't commit to either until you have it separated from the calliper.
When you have achieved that the simplest option is to buy a replacement pipe from Peugeot.
.....the simplest option is to buy a replacement pipe from Peugeot.
Spoke to Peugeot about this last week but they do not sell such pipes.....There are kits you can buy online but am not sure what sizes of pipes they are nor the exact end fittings and flares etc.
And yes, mole grips, in fact, the entire pipe and wheel cylinder will be replaced anyway so doesn't really matter now.
Spoke to Peugeot about this last week but they do not sell such pipes.....
Which pipe don't the dealers sell? They all seem to be listed on servicebox.
The exact part would depend on the VIN number
Probably easier to go to a garage which has the gear and take the whole of your old pipe with you. They will make a new pipe up, complete with fittings and flares and may possibly bend it to shape for you.
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