#1: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 2:59 pm ---- Evening guys and girls,
Girlfriend bought a 206 1.1 LX on Sunday, and all seemed fine upon test drives, etc
We knew we'd need to get her at least 2 new tyres, no problem
She took the car to work, and when parking she felt crunching. This was when full lock or near full lock pulling away slowly.
Took it for a free check with a garage owner (who's also a family friend, conveniently)
O/S/R brake binding (both o/s wheels do not spin freely when in the air)
This is the major concern as its the one I have no knowledge of.
She needs new tyres, and new pads/discs. Which are no problem for me to sort out.
Brakes binding - bit of a search and a common issue, and hopefully the fix for our issue is the same as the one I read.
The white brake light switch/wire - located under the dash.
Apparently, first thing to try is taking the connection out and pu back in to make sure it's in the correct amount, etc.
As this uses the same bit as the actual brake pedal too.
So any ideas how exactly this fix is tried, as I can see A LOT of wires under the dash, and more than 1 being white...
Also any other suggestions on what it could be?
Thanks in advance!
Ben
#2: Re: Newbie help Author: RoaringMeg, Location: West LancashirePosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 5:09 pm ---- The brake light switch is located through the hole in the mounting bracket shown here just above item 12
#3: Re: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 1:57 am ---- Brilliant - that's made that a bit clearer. Thank you!
Will take a look ASAP.
Does anyone know other potential reasons for brake(s) binding?
#4: Re: Newbie help Author: commandosqueak, Location: Lower SlaughterPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 4:13 am ---- dodgy calipers are always a popular one
#5: Re: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:55 am ----
commandosqueak wrote:
dodgy calipers are always a popular one
Thanks for the reply,
Is there a way to check if they are doing their job or anything?
#6: Re: Newbie help Author: commandosqueak, Location: Lower SlaughterPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:12 am ---- go for a good run and use the brakes, if the caliper is hotter than the other side its binding. solution is new caliper or refurb kit. but that depends on how mechanically minded you are
#7: Re: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:22 am ----
commandosqueak wrote:
go for a good run and use the brakes, if the caliper is hotter than the other side its binding. solution is new caliper or refurb kit. but that depends on how mechanically minded you are
Well I know the brake is binding. When jacked up both o/s wheels do not spin when pushed.
I will take for a drive and use brakes, and feel them to compare each side.
I try to do as much work as I can to my own car (not the 206) so hopefully with a few pointers that'd be a DIY job. I've had the front brakes off and replace discs and pads on a 1.1 saxo (so I assume probably a similar setup)
Thanks again
#8: Re: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 4:56 am ---- Issue has got worse.
O/S Front Brake/Wheel is ruled out as an issue
it's only the O/S Rear brake (drum)
Now when we try to pull away the o/s/r wheel just doesn't move. If I make the car move the wheel skids along.
I have had wheel off, and brake cleanered it, and sanded some rusted bits. More brake cleaner, left it for a while. Checked it, still stuck for good. I have hit it with a soft hammer (quite gently as I would rather not make another issue).. No change.
What can I do?
#9: Re: Newbie help Author: macca1411, Location: Westhoughton, LancashirePosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:39 am ----
silvertwo-oh-six wrote:
it's only the O/S Rear brake (drum)
Now when we try to pull away the o/s/r wheel just doesn't move. If I make the car move the wheel skids along.
I have had wheel off, and brake cleanered it, and sanded some rusted bits. More brake cleaner, left it for a while. Checked it, still stuck for good. I have hit it with a soft hammer (quite gently as I would rather not make another issue).. No change.
How did you clean the brakes if the drum is seized?
Try a lump hammer, the drum can take it.
A common problem on the drums is the friction material coming away from the shoe and jamming against the drum. Usually either rocking the car in forward or reverse gears frees it, but with a clunk. Then you can get the drum off and replace the shoes, lube up or replace the auto adjuster and it's sorted.
#10: Re: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:52 am ---- So the clunk that happened when I reversed is not too much of a bad thing?
I basically just cleaned what I could of all of it.
I dont have drums on my own car so have never looked at them
I will try lump hammer and the swaying now.. thanks! !
#11: Re: Newbie help Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:27 am ---- It could be handbrake cable seized on one side. Not common on a 206 but does happen.
It could be the auto adjustment mechanism, retaining clips or spring holding the shoes in place have broken or dislodged.
As above it could be the brake material has separated from the backing.
You might have to use a lot of brute force to get the drum off as the drum probably has quite a ridge on the inside edge that won't clear the shoes.
It might be worth fully releasing the handbrake cable at he handbrake lever adjusting point. it wouldn't be the first time a handbrake was over tightened at this point.
The self adjusting mechanism inside the drum is complex if you haven't seen it before so buy a Haynes manual. Not perfect but helpful for jobs like this.
If you are removing the drums you will need new staked nuts and a torque spanner for refitting.
Behind the drum are a washer and seal - make sure you note the order and orientation these are fitted in. It is easy to get that wrong.
#12: Re: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 3:17 am ---- Thanks for a replies!
We now park the 206 in gear, with handbrake off. This has stopped the back brake seizing now.. obviously not a perfect scenario but its getting us out of trouble for a while.
The car seller bought us new brake shoes to say sorry to hear an issue occurred already.. ha!
Another issue: think I know the answer but..
When steering on full lock, so parking mainly.. the wheels sound like they are crunching.
I've done some searching and sounds like it could be the CV joint. How can I check? Am I looking for a leak or loose bits?
How much would a garage look to charge to replace 1 or both CV joints?
And how easy is it for DIY
Thanks again
#13: Re: Newbie help Author: macj, Location: EssexPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 5:12 am ---- CV joint it is..... get someone to listen to each side of the car as you turn tight each way. The suspect joint will show itself. Not the easiest of jobs if you are not very clued up on them. I suggest you get a garage to change the bad one. Should be about an hours labour
#14: Re: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 5:18 am ---- Cheers bud, will call for some quotes!
#15: Re: Newbie help Author: silvertwo-oh-six, Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 1:33 pm ---- The brake has been ok since we started parking without handbrake on.
Went to drive it yesterday and it was seized but unseized fairly easily to unseize.. but now it grinds.
Forward and reverse.
Has the shoe worn that much?
Or has it partially unseized?
Thanks
#16: Re: Newbie help Author: chewbacca, Location: scotlandPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 3:17 pm ---- Think you really need to get the drums off and have a look to see exactly whats wrong.Like others have said sounds as though it's possible a lining has dropped off but without checking it's impossible to say,but If it were mine I'd be looking sooner rather than later in case it binds up.
Regards
#17: Re: Newbie help Author: macca1411, Location: Westhoughton, LancashirePosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:43 am ---- When the lining drops off, the pedal usually goes to the floor.
The grinding could be surface rust on the drums, doesn't take long for it to appear. Does the noise disappear after a few applications of the foot brake?
Drums definitely need to come off and have the brakes checked. Worth checking no springs have snapped and that the auto adjusters are clean and working correctly. Check the inside of the drums for a lip. Copper grease where the shoes touch the back plate. These points will be obvious when the shoes are off. Replace the hub nut every time you take the drums off and torque up to 200Nm. It would also be worth replacing the wheel bearing if it comes out and any part of it isn't still held within the bearing shell.
#18: Re: Newbie help Author: Seatock789, Location: MorecambePosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 2:24 am ---- Without taking the drum off, it would be difficult to tell what is causing the problem. Use a lump hammer and pry bar to free off the seized drum, don't be afraid to hit it hard, it will take it and the chance of causing any further damage are slim. You'll them be able to see if the shoe's have worn or if it is another issue. Gave it a good clean with brake cleaner, it might just free up something.
#19: Re: Newbie help Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:22 pm ---- You have a drum that is liable to seize solid. Do you want that to happen when your girlfriend and her mates are doing 70mph? Get the drum off and get it fixed or give it to your garage owning friend. Please do not put this off.
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