#1: Are these brake pads crystallized? Author: kernel, Location: EarthPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:02 am ---- hi
these are the rear ones. They are pretty new (less than one year and 5000 km) but lately the braking is getting worse...
what do you think, checking the visual aspect?
thanks
#2: Re: Are these brake pads crystallized? Author: doski, Location: WarwickshirePosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:55 pm ---- they look f****d
#3: Re: Are these brake pads crystallized? Author: macca1411, Location: Westhoughton, LancashirePosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 1:01 pm ---- They have a bit of a glaze but nothing major. You can give them a bit of a rough up with some course sandpaper.
When did you last have your brake fluid changed? Should be done every 2 years really as it absorbs moisture and as your brake fluid gets hotter, the absorbed water boils and turns to steam, the steam compresses in the pipes when you brake and causes a soft pedal. This is one of the most common causes of soft pedals and brake fade.
#4: Re: Are these brake pads crystallized? Author: MrBSI, Location: What's it to you? ? ?Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 2:13 pm ---- Rear callipers can seize up as the back brakes don't do much work.
Give the rear calliper's a good check over / clean up, either rough up the original pads & refit OR just stick a new set in ( after checking the discs )
#5: Re: Are these brake pads crystallized? Author: Addaz, Location: SuffolkPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 2:32 pm ---- They look fine. Would check other aspects
#6: Re: Are these brake pads crystallized? Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:52 am ---- They look fine and why start at the rear - anything in particular made you start there? The majority of the stopping 75 - 80% or more is done by the front brakes. When you say getting really bad in what way; poor stopping power and a firm pedal or poor stopping power and a soft pedal? Do the brakes work OK with normal braking but bad when emergency braking? Does the car stop straight or pull one way? You haven't given much to go by and you need to more clearly describe what you think has changed.
Your starting point should be to make sure everything on the front and rear is free to move easily. That means one at a time removing each calliper, remove pads and make sure the pistons aren't seized. Remove all rust from the moving parts (pins etc.) lubricate with a thin smear of copper grease or other special brake grease and reassemble.
As Macca said new fluid can also improve things.
#7: Re: Are these brake pads crystallized? Author: kernel, Location: EarthPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:23 am ---- it seems consensed that pads look fine.
I started for the rears because I'm having some issues unlocking the front bolts that fix the caliper (they are like merged).
I will have to take a look at the front ones when I unlock them.
The symptoms on braking are that the pedal is little bit hard and it does not transmit mordant (I have to apply more pressure). Pedal is not soft neither with large way.
Liquid is 2.4 years old, anyway I will change it soon despite it seems not be the problem.
Apart from that, I checked front discs and they are little bit worn: the outside disc has a 1.5 mm rim, and the inside one 2.0 mm. Is that too much?
thanks guys
#8: Re: Are these brake pads crystallized? Author: kandlbarrett, Location: SwindonPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:54 pm ---- That sounds like excess wear on the front though some of that rim (lip) will be rust so the real wear won't be quite as much as it seems.
If the holding bolts are seized it is likely that other components will also be seized. A hard pedal that doesn't transmit the force to stopping power is also a sign of seized brakes.
Haynes manual quotes the following minimum thickness:-
SOLID DISC
Pre 1999 1.1 litre 8mm
All other solid disc model 11mm
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