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 Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:34 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Harlow, Essex
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I have a W reg GTi, it stood for about 3 months as my wife was pregnant and it was her car.
The car wont start now, no spark, fuel pump does not prime when the ignition is turned on, the temp gauge needle jumps up and down and the climate control is dead. Is it possible that they are all on the same electrical circuit ?
I charged the battery, cleaned all the earths on the battery, body and gearbox at the same time. Checked all the fuses, none was blown.
I took the coilpack out and checked for spark, nothing, replaced the coilpack with another one, but still the same. I disconnected the battery for a day, to see if anything will reset, but no luck.
I have powered the fuel pump with a live wire from the battery, and it primes, so the fuel pump itself is ok. I do not have an owners manual, so it makes it complicated trying to look for relays and fuses. I swapped as much relays over as I could see.
Any ideas on where to look next, I dont want to spend too much on the car, as taking it to a Pug dealer is out of the question. Diagnostics would point me in the right direction, sure, but want to hold out for as long as possible as trying to get the car there is an issue on its own.
I am stunned ...
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:36 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 6055
Trade Rating: +53
Location: Salisbury / New Forest
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Sounds like an imobiliser fault if the fuel pump doesn't prime.
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:38 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 1786
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Carmarthen - WALES
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if you have two keys try using the other one as the battery may have died in the key causing the imobilisr to kick in, just a suggestion, can't say it will cure. its only a simple thing to try
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:39 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 5575
Trade Rating: +33
Location: Moscow
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| lee wrote: |
Q) My car won't start
A) If your car won't start then it could be due to your vehicle's immobiliser system.
The following is the best way to isolate the problem:-
* Check the VERY obvious but sometimes overlooked first - Is there petrol in the vehicle? Is the battery flat? Are the connections to the battery loose?
* If the engine occasionally splutters as if it is just about to start but doesn't fire up fully, starts and keeps cutting out or turns over very slowly then this is likely not related to the immobilser.
* If the engine won't turn over at all (no sound when turning key) or the starter motor just continues to turn but the engine won't fire you may have immobilser issues. Many modern vehicles do have an immobiliser warning light on the dashboard (usually a sillhouette of a key) - check your manual. But some vehicles will not have this warning light. And if the immobiliser is not factory fitted then the light will not come on.
* Do the following:-
- Lock up the vehicle using the remote if equipped and open again. This may reset the immobiliser. Then try and start the vehicle
- Check the fuel cut off button if you have one, it is located to the back of the battery normally either red or black. Normal procedure is to press the button.
- Next, find any spare keys and try them. This will rule out any problems with the transponder chip within your key. Although this does not rule out problems with the transponder aerial.
- Disconnect the vehicle's battery for 5 to 10 minutes, reconnect and then try starting the vehicle. Again this may reset the immobiliser/ECU. Follow the relevant procedure further up in this thread.
- If all this fails then further investigation will be required by a specialist.
Immobilsers work in several ways:
- disconnect voltage to HT leads/coil pack and subsequently stop spark plugs from firing
- disconnect voltage from fuel pump
- disconnect voltage from starter motor
Depending on the vehicle the immobiliser system may employ any combination or all of the above.
If the starter motor is turning then the usual course of action an engineer would take is to see if the plugs are sparking or that fuel is being pumped and then work back to the cause of any irregularity.
Of course the problem could be totally unrelated to the immobiliser and be a faulty fuel pump or ignition system or just a wire unplugged but most engineers would still go about diagnosing the fault in this way. Alternatives are diagnostic fault code reading systems which an engineer would plug into the vehicle's diagnostic socket with specialist equipment and then be able to check all systems in the vehicle as well as any fault codes that may have been logged. These diagnostic systems can make fault tracing easier.
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Available here: www.206info.co.uk/Foru...+list.html
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 7:10 pm |
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 2596
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North West Wales
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A friend of mine's W reg GTI did this to him recently. Does it still turn over freely? His turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor.
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Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:44 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Harlow, Essex
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Strange thing happened today, we ran a live wire from the battery to the pump again, to make it prime, and then tried to start it and it does start...
Then on further investigation I noticed that the are 2 positive wires in the engine fuse box, one of them has no power to it. When I bridge them, then the car starts also, but I do not want to do it continuously as I am afraid it might burn a ecu or something.
This to me means there is a problem with power from the ignition to the fuse box. Any idea what to do next ?
Thanks so much for the advice thus far, I have tried it all but came to the latest conclusion.
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Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 6:27 pm |
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 2596
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North West Wales
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| ukbok wrote: |
Strange thing happened today, we ran a live wire from the battery to the pump again, to make it prime, and then tried to start it and it does start...
Then on further investigation I noticed that the are 2 positive wires in the engine fuse box, one of them has no power to it. When I bridge them, then the car starts also, but I do not want to do it continuously as I am afraid it might burn a ecu or something.
This to me means there is a problem with power from the ignition to the fuse box. Any idea what to do next ?
Thanks so much for the advice thus far, I have tried it all but came to the latest conclusion. |
Could be a dodgy point inside the fuse box itself. You got any other fuse boxes you could change and try?
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Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 12:59 pm |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 72
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Brazil
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Hi. My car have a bad battery, I've tried a jump into other car's battery and nothing. Trying a slow recharge and nothing too.
When I turn on the key to start the engine, all electronic black out and when the system's back, the "Engine Immobilisers Fault" shows in the display.
That could be fix just changing to a brand new battery?
Thanks.
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Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 1:43 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 13077
Trade Rating: +65
Location: England
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Test your battery voltage first, to see if its charged and any good
Try the spare key
With jumping the car it can cause the IMMO to corrupt and won't let the car start, just had this problem on a Citroen van, it would have needed a new IMMO box and the ECU coding to match, so I just took the IMMO off completely
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Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 2:02 pm |
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Joined: May 16, 2011
Posts: 495
Trade Rating: +1
Location: huddersfield
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More likely a relay problem, either located under the ecu, or right at the back of the engine under the windscreen. been told there a bit larger than your standard little squaer ones. Just had a simular problem but mine was more complicated as mine was multiplexed.
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| 206 2ltr Hdi glx 53 plate | |
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Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:28 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 72
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Brazil
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My car's multiplexed too.
I've tested all my 3 keys and nothing. Trying to charge the battery again. Meanwhile I'll check the relays.
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:38 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 72
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Brazil
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Fixed.
40 hours in a slow recharger and then the battery's alive again. 
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 3:07 pm |
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Joined: Sep 05, 2011
Posts: 170
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leeds
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This is only a suggestion, but this could be a BSI fault perhaps? I have been told that most things run through the BSI, as i work at a Pug Dealer myself, but am only an apprentice, but i own a 206 gti myself. This could be where the climate control is going wrong possibly? Only a suggestion mate.
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:25 pm |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 72
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Brazil
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I think my problem was a wrong headunit installation.
My player's a Pioneer. To install it I needed a adapter ISO > Pioneer.
Well... A friend gave me a ISO connector and in the Pioneer box comes a pioneer connector. So I made my adapter.
But that had a failure in the memory system. To fix it, a guy who works in a sound shop here change some wires in my adapter, but the dork put together the 2 positive wires.
In my way to solve the battery problems I've remembered that and unmount my head unit to check that wires. So, finally I refix the adapter changing the 2 positive wires to correct position.
Now the headunit keeps the memory and I think no more battery problems.
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 2:53 pm |
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Joined: Sep 05, 2011
Posts: 170
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leeds
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Hopefully your solution has cured it. All the best with it mate!
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