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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Griding noises when braking


 
 

Griding noises when braking
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dsiingh
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:10 am Up
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Ok so this morning i was driving the car and noticed when pressing the brake, i could here a grinding noise from the rear of my car Shocked . Now im not sure whether if this is my brakes or anything else. I have a 206 1.4 V reg which has done 64k im not sure if that all matters.

If it was the brakes, how could i check them myself? and what types of brakes will they be at the rear of my car?

All advice is appreciated.

Thanks in adavance Smile

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:17 am Up
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Drums on the back.

Drums removed check / clean the shoes, it might also need the brake shoes replacing as the friction linings do come unstuck.

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dsiingh
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:25 am Up
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Thank you mr bsi,

Is it a hard job? is it costly? its my first car so im unsure about everything...

what do i check for to no if they are worn?

Sorry im asking loads of questions

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:29 am Up
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dsiingh wrote:
Thank you mr bsi,

Is it a hard job? is it costly? its my first car so im unsure about everything...

what do i check for to no if they are worn?

Sorry im asking loads of questions

Wheel of then undo the big nut in the middle, pull the drum of & have a look.

Shoes are cheap enough from motor factors if needed, might also need wheel cylinders if there leaking.

Unless you are 100% sure what your doing then its a job for a mechanic / garage, you DON'T mess around with brakes!

From the sounds of it you need a mechanic / garage to have a look.

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macca1411
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:51 am Up
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Sounds similar to mine. The shoe lining had come off as Mr BSI says.
Mine had been sticking on for a couple of weeks, then one day my foot went to the floor and the car didn't slow down. New shoes were £17 (Bosch), got the seals for the brake cylinders and new hub nuts for both sides for less than a fiver. Most expensive part was the taxi to the motor factors.
Took about an hour to do both sides.

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:55 am Up
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I have my drums of once a year at service time to clean the dust out & check everythings still ok inside, part of my yearly service.
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dsiingh
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:31 am Up
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I read all the comment too late..i went off to have a look, i only managed to get the wheels off i was baffled from there on wards so i put the wheels back on..im off to the mechanics tomro or today..i just need to find a good mechanic.

If it is the brake drums etc would it cost me more than 100quid ?

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:35 am Up
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There's a silver dust cap in the middle of the drum & behind that is a BIG nut that holds the drum on.

Your drums will be fine, it's most likely just the shoes & there cheap as parts, add in an hours labour roughly to do the job for a garage / mechanic.

Sometimes the rear wheel cylinders leak as they get older, if it needs those replacing as well then parts cost will rise slightly but as its a 206 & simple PSA Peugeot / Citroen parts bin stuff there cheap enough.

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dsiingh
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:39 am Up
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it all sounds interesting...i did see the silver dust cap...wasnt to sure how to take it off and if i did i thought i wouldve broke the thing..il best leave it for a mechanic....will they charge on getting it checked out first ?
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:41 am Up
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dsiingh wrote:
it all sounds interesting...i did see the silver dust cap...wasnt to sure how to take it off and if i did i thought i wouldve broke the thing..il best leave it for a mechanic....will they charge on getting it checked out first ?

Dust cap pops of & if your careful enough you can reuse it.

Hub nuts should technically be only used once & make sure there torqued then staked correctly after fitting.

Most places wont charge to have a look if they then get to carry out the repair work they quote you for.

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namgaj
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:53 am Up
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Ah the simple job of removing a rear drum............ mine were a NIGHTMARE to get off, resorted to a puller in the end. As MrBSI says, I would strongly recommend revoval of the drum yearly, if only to stop it seizing, also does'not hurt to get a bit of brake cleaner in there;)
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dsiingh
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:53 am Up
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I tightened the wheels back up as much as i could i even stood on the wheel spanner to tighten it back up...wel thats ok.i was thinking of takin them around kwik fit first as they have brakes 4 life..thank you mr bsi.
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macca1411
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 6:58 am Up
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dsiingh wrote:
I tightened the wheels back up as much as i could i even stood on the wheel spanner to tighten it back up...wel thats ok.i was thinking of takin them around kwik fit first as they have brakes 4 life..thank you mr bsi.

You should invest in a torque wrench. Overtightening wheel nuts can be as bad as leaving them loose, worse still, if you have alloys, you can damage the wheel.
Manufacturers have torque settings for a reason, you should use them.

Don't go to Kwik Fit, they are the biggest cowboys out there. The spotty teenager that gets hold of your keys will be lucky to have a GCSE, never mind a qualification to work on the brakes of a car. I wouldn't let them change the wheel on a shopping trolley.

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kingsway2468
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 8:24 am Up
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dont go to kwik fit theyre a joke Smile i usualy adjust my shoes throught the wheel bolt hole you can see a little coil spin that it adjusts the shoes when you take off the big nut tap the drum with a hammer nd it will just pull off watch the wheel bearing doesnt fall out and break though

but as people are saying if youre unsure take to garage you dont want to fcuk about with breaks

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deebee
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 9:30 am Up
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i had similar problem when i aplly brakes i here a ticking noise then if i release and apply it goes? its so strange!
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