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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Radius arm bush |
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 Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:19 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 29
Trade Rating: 0
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Hello 
So I have a 1.4 206 2001 in black, LX model. Now it went for an MOT and it failed on the radius arm bush on the drivers rear. Quite badly so, I only realised when the guy took it off the ramp and the back wheel had some serious camber.
Now, I've read up on this and apparantly they are absolute A**holes to do? Is this true? Would I be better just finding another rear beam?
Thanks in advance, when it's abit lighter I will get some snaps up of the issue.
Cheers
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Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:37 am |
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Joined: Nov 25, 2013
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Southern Finland
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I guess you mean the trailing arm to axle shaft bearings? It's not so bad if you know what you're doing. Only thing is that because they have gone to that point when the wheel starts having camber there might be wear on the axle side also and then a refurbished full axle would be a wise decision..
About the work itself, you'll have to remove the anti roll bar - knock or pull out the flange from the other side that is hold on the trailing arm with a 13mm bolt. There is a plastic torx bolt on the middle of the flange, screw a same size metal bolt into there and it will pull out the flange from the anti roll bar splines. Then the whole arb can be pulled out from the other side.
I would remove the rear shock absorbers at this point.
Then you'll have to remove the torsion bar torx bolts and offset washers, then knock out the torsion bars making a note of the ride height beforehand (for example measurement between the wheel arch and the hub). Take the weight of the trailing arm on a trolley jack or something and raise it a few millimeters before trying to knock out the bars, this releases the tension from them. After that the trailing arms can be pulled or knocked off the axle. Removing the brake lines makes life easier for a moment, if you don't count the bleeding process afterwards. Also the ABS harness has to be unclipped overneath the axle if the car has them.
The bearings are fitted inside the trailing arm, two different bearings on each arm. These can be quite difficult to knock out, hammer and a chisel are my weapons of choice. The the new ones can be pressed in or knocked in with a rubber mallet (and a socket). Axle shaft pins shouldn't be corroded (and they likely are) or the new bearings will fail again in a short period of time. But at this point it is easy to drop out the rest of the axle shaft and fit a new/better one. Then it is just reverse of removal. Torsion bars can be installed to their place by spinning them against the splines and they will find their place, trailing arm has to be hold at the wanted ride height when installing the torsion bars.. Fit everything back on, bleed the brakes and it's done. If the axle hasn't been opened before you'll easily waste a good 4-6 hours on the job..
Torsion bars come out of the car through the trailing arm hole they are fitted on. This is because the splines on the bars are bigger on the trailing arm side and they won't fit through the hole on the axle side (on the other side of the car). Also it would be a good idea to clean the splines on the bars well and smear them with copper paste or similar to make future removal easier. Also it helps installing when you can just slide them in with fingers. I usually take the torsion bar and push it through the hole on the trailing arm / axle a couple of times (turn it around and only fit one end) with some wd40 or similar on the splines untill they are cleaned up. Then clean it with brake cleaner and apply copper paste.
Don't mix the torsion bars up, other one is meant for the drivers side and the other is for the passanger side.
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| 306 S16, 306 GTI-6, 605 SV24, 205 GTI-6, 2x405 Mi16, VW T3 1.9TD/AAZ, Audi TT mk2 3.2 quattro, Audi A6 2.7 biturbo quattro | |
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Last edited by Kale on Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:46 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 29
Trade Rating: 0
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| Kale wrote: |
I guess you mean the trailing arm to axle shaft bearings? It's not so bad if you know what you're doing. Only thing is that because they have gone to that point when the wheel starts having camber there might be wear on the axle side also and then a refurbished full axle would be a wise decision..
About the work itself, you'll have to remove the anti roll bar - knock or pull out the flange from the other side that is hold on the trailing arm with a 13mm bolt. There is a plastic torx bolt on the middle of the flange, screw a same size metal bolt into there and it will pull out the flange from the anti roll bar splines. Then the whole arb can be pulled out from the other side.
I would remove the rear shock absorbers at this point.
Then you'll have to remove the torsion bar torx bolts and offset washers, then knock out the torsion bars making a note of the ride height beforehand (for example measurement between the wheel arch and the hub). After that the trailing arms can be pulled or knocked off the axle. Removing the brake lines makes life easier for a moment, if you don't count the bleeding process afterwards. Also the ABS harness has to be unclipped overneath the axle if the car has them.
The bearings are fitted inside the trailing arm, two different bearings on each arm. These can be quite difficult to knock out, hammer and a chisel are my weapons of choice. The the new ones can be pressed in or knocked in with a rubber mallet (and a socket). Axle shaft pins shouldn't be corroded (and they likely are) or the new bearings will fail again in a short period of time. But at this point it is easy to drop out the rest of the axle shaft and fit a new/better one. Then it is just reverse of removal. Torsion bars can be installed to their place by spinning them against the splines and they will find their place, trailing arm has to be hold at the wanted ride height when installing the torsion bars.. Fit everything back on, bleed the brakes and it's done. If the axle hasn't been opened before you'll easily waste a good 4-6 hours on the job.. |
Wow, thanks for that! So, would it be better for me to just get another ream beam/axle from a breakers? I mean I'm quite mechanically minded, I could tackle it myself but I need it back on the road asap and buying another beam would minimise the time it takes and something going wrong.
Hmmmm
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Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:55 am |
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Joined: Nov 25, 2013
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Southern Finland
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If you need the car daily then it would be wise. Then you can take the time and pull the old axle apart to see how it's put together and maybe fix it. And then you have the experience to open up the "new" axle on some sunny day and change the bearings on it for the peace of mind.
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| 306 S16, 306 GTI-6, 605 SV24, 205 GTI-6, 2x405 Mi16, VW T3 1.9TD/AAZ, Audi TT mk2 3.2 quattro, Audi A6 2.7 biturbo quattro | |
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 1:52 pm |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 29
Trade Rating: 0
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I'm going down the whole rear beam route, spoke to a guy at 'im axle' and he said he can supply one asap 
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 3:15 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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Just changing the bearings doesn't fix the axle pins that are likely to be damaged.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 3:47 am |
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Joined: Nov 25, 2013
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Southern Finland
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What did I say before 
| Quote:: |
| Axle shaft pins shouldn't be corroded (and they likely are) or the new bearings will fail again in a short period of time. But at this point it is easy to drop out the rest of the axle shaft and fit a new/better one. |
Yeah, I know, I write way too much
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| 306 S16, 306 GTI-6, 605 SV24, 205 GTI-6, 2x405 Mi16, VW T3 1.9TD/AAZ, Audi TT mk2 3.2 quattro, Audi A6 2.7 biturbo quattro | |
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