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Forums › The Car › 206 Talk › Spent the afternoon cussing at the French.... |
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Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 6:37 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010 Posts: 2369
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Gloucestershire, UK
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Evening all. Given the weather, and the fact that I finally had some free time, I decided to take a few more bits off the donor car.
Originally I was just going to take the bits off, but decided as I'd done so well taking one particular part off, I'd have a go at refitting.
Thats, when the cussing started.
So. For about 5 years now, I've only had fan speed 4 on the cabin blower, which was obviously the result of a blown resistor.
Removing the donor resistor pack was straight forward enough. A screwdriver in from the centre console to the left hand lug and a nice sharp tap, pushed the pack round so that it dropped down. Squeezing the hand up wasn't too bad either - but took a little bit of 'skill' to push the two retaining clips in to then free the plug from the pack. All in, it took about 10 minutes, which seemed to be too good to be true.
And sure enough, it was. On the old girl, it was little more difficult. Releasing the pack was just as easy as with the donor car. But, as with Piggy's video, there was some plug in the way. No idea what it's for, I should look up it sometime. Getting to the retaining screw proved impossible (especially as even to now, I have no idea what type it is, let alone trying to get tools at it). I managed to prize it out of the slot it sits in and twist it up which freed it from the retaining screw though.
But trying to get my hand up to the pack seemed much much tighter. At points I seriously thought there was a chance I could slice an artery if I wasn't careful. Eventually I got the pack free and then attempted to fit the one from the donor car. Wasn't happening. As much as I could get my hand back up there and hold the plug and pack with one hand, I couldn't push the plug into the pack. After a while I gave up, and had a look at the two packs side by side. I mean, the car engine codes are the same for both vehicles so I figured most of the accessories would be too.
French. F*!%k$*s. They're only bloody different. Well. The socket is different. Looking at the underside of the pack, position of the coils, resistor and everything else they look identical. Gah! The socket has a lug in it, in a different position.
Rather than try fitting the hard way again, I decided to pull the plug up through the hole and seat it near where the clock would be. I prized out the stupid lug that's different in the donor pack plugged the pack in and give things a whirl, and hey presto speeds 1-3 are working again!
It didn't last long though. After about 5 minutes, it all went dead again.
Ugh. Maybe there is some difference between the packs then? I'll try and source the 'correct' type (white shrouding) and try again.
Now. I also decided to swap the clocks out. The donor car had the nicer clocks. The SW ones I think. I know from when we got the car it had, 90k on the clock, and mine are at 117K, so everything should be a straight swap. Pulling out the clocks, two plugs. One yellow, one white. Same on my car. Nice and easy.
Now. Wherever you look up about the 206 clocks. The same story comes through. When you swap the clocks, the one with the higest mileage wins out. So in theory, mine at 117K should be the one that gets displayed, right?
So, can someone explain this?
Also, I'll have a read up on it. But what's the amber light on the left? Traction control? ABS?
Lastly. This morning I noticed, one of the rear tyres was down slightly. So I pumped it up again, and whilst pumping it up noticed something gleaming off the arch. Yup. Brand new alloys and tyres, and there's a fricking screw embedded in it!
Frustrating. Afternoon. All. Round.
At least I managed to swap my battery out without any problems!
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Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 8:21 pm |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010 Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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Only the multiplexed cars have anti mileage clocking - that instrument cluster is non plexed so whatever mileage is stored in the cluster is what will be displayed.
The warning light is for ABS = Plug in Planet & see what ABS fault codes are stored.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 6:46 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010 Posts: 2369
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Gloucestershire, UK
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MrBSI wrote: |
Only the multiplexed cars have anti mileage clocking - that instrument cluster is non plexed so whatever mileage is stored in the cluster is what will be displayed.
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Oh! Thanks for pointing that out. It still seems wrong for the donor car, but I guess I mis-recalled what the milage was on it.
MrBSI wrote: |
The warning light is for ABS = Plug in Planet & see what ABS fault codes are stored. |
Oh that one's easy. The code is: OMG WHERE IS THE ABS ON YOUR CAR, IT'S GONE! (It's a non-abs car)
So I'll just pull the bulb from the cluster.
I'm more interested in the differences in the resistor packs. Looks to me like it's the same resistor, in the same configuration. Although there's a chance the wiring configuration could be different between the two cars.
The pack is dead simple, and so I'm wondering if I should just clip out the resistor and solder a replacement in.
But in the back of my mind, I'm thinking this isn't going to solve the problem and that the resistor is just going to blow again. So what's the likely cause of this?
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Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 7:09 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010 Posts: 11520
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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Just buy / get hold of the correct resistor pack for your car - there not expensive.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 7:27 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010 Posts: 2369
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Gloucestershire, UK
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I'm not sure I want to spend £15 on a replacement pack, especially if there's a high probability that the problem will occur again, when I can replace the resistor for no more than 20p.
Especially as it blew the other one so easily.
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