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 Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:35 am |
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Joined: Feb 09, 2010
Posts: 111
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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| Rob2859 wrote: |
I have a pair of cold cathode neons left over so I am stealing your door idea mate  |
CCFL, is that wise? One knock to the bottom of your door and its overs for your light, also there's not much space under there, I placed the LED's in the little indents under the door
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:53 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2360
Trade Rating: +3
Location: Sheffield/Chesterfield/Dronfield
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That looks awesome, I assumed they would just flash like indicators, but those running lights look awesome
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:28 am |
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Joined: Mar 29, 2010
Posts: 3977
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Halifax
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| -Kitsune- wrote: |
| Rob2859 wrote: |
| I have a pair of cold cathode neons left over so I am stealing your door idea mate |
CCFL, is that wise? One knock to the bottom of your door and its overs for your light, also there's not much space under there, I placed the LED's in the little indents under the door |
They will be fine where I am placing them. They will go under the door pockets so space will not be an issue. They will double up to light the foot wells when closed too.
You will proberbly like what I have bought too. I will be making a post including them once they arrive from china.
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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:00 am |
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Joined: Feb 09, 2010
Posts: 111
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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| Rob2859 wrote: |
| -Kitsune- wrote: |
| Rob2859 wrote: |
| I have a pair of cold cathode neons left over so I am stealing your door idea mate |
CCFL, is that wise? One knock to the bottom of your door and its overs for your light, also there's not much space under there, I placed the LED's in the little indents under the door |
They will be fine where I am placing them. They will go under the door pockets so space will not be an issue. They will double up to light the foot wells when closed too.
You will proberbly like what I have bought too. I will be making a post including them once they arrive from china. |
Awesome, sounds good!
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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:55 pm |
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Joined: Mar 29, 2010
Posts: 3977
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Halifax
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| -Kitsune- wrote: |
| Rob2859 wrote: |
| -Kitsune- wrote: |
| Rob2859 wrote: |
| I have a pair of cold cathode neons left over so I am stealing your door idea mate |
CCFL, is that wise? One knock to the bottom of your door and its overs for your light, also there's not much space under there, I placed the LED's in the little indents under the door |
They will be fine where I am placing them. They will go under the door pockets so space will not be an issue. They will double up to light the foot wells when closed too.
You will proberbly like what I have bought too. I will be making a post including them once they arrive from china. |
Awesome, sounds good! |
should be. Will get some pics up when I have done. Got a few jobs to do.
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 1:37 pm |
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Joined: Feb 09, 2010
Posts: 111
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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| -Kitsune- wrote: |
The problem is that the "Running LED's" need a constant DC supply otherwise it will just start off then turn off again with the repeater.. So I am going to have to think of something else..
I know there should be a simple solution just cant think of one right now..
Do you know if the indicators are driven by a relay still or if it's done in the BSI? |
So an update on this, when I was thinking more clearly, lol I realized I could use a capacitor to hold the charge in a relay while the repeater is off..
I made a quick circuit diagram if anyones interested.
I used a 1000uF 24v Electrolytic capacitor as 1000uF kept it on long enough for the wing mirror indicator to complete a full cycle (of 8 LED's).
You probably only need one around about 6-700uF to keep it on between repeater cycles.
D1 is used to stop the capacitor from draining back into the cars electronics (without this it wont work).
D2 is used as Suppression for the power spike a relay creates when turning off (can be in the hundreds to thousands of volts).
Ive just connected the relay switch to the negative as it is easier running just a single cable to the circuit board.
So basically now when the repeater is turned on, the relay activates closing the circuit, as the repeater flashes, it charges the capacitor and the capacitor keeps the relay in that state as the repeater turns off then goes back to charging when it turns on again.
The 1000uF cap allows the relay to stay on for about 2 seconds after it loses power.
As soon as I've done the other mirror I'm going to hook it up.
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