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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › GTi 180, running on 2/3 cylinders


 
 

GTi 180, running on 2/3 cylinders
Forum Index206 Problems
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sri16v
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:57 am Up
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Location: Wales


After putting the clutch in my 180, connected everything back up as per usual and went to start it. Immedietely it was running very poor,

I have checked the injectors as I suspected it was a bad injector, they are all firing nice with a good spray pattern,.

Ive changed the plugs back to another set, and still no joy. Checked the coil pack and it appears to be working, but you cant really tell a weak spark that easy.

The plugs themselves are black and sooty, not wet, but not the cocoa brown youd expect.

Its not logging any fault codes, and Im scratching my head, hoping its just a coil pack, but would that log a fault code?

2004 GTi 180
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macj
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:00 am Up
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If you had the gearbox off.... check the crank sensor for damage
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sri16v
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:16 am Up
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macj wrote:
If you had the gearbox off.... check the crank sensor for damage

crank sensor did have a little bit of damage, a rough edge from what I remember, im guessing it was from when the release bearing exploded, as I dont think we caught it when putting the box back on.

Would the damage not bring up a fault code? or do you think it may only be partially working?

2004 GTi 180
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macj
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:06 am Up
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Its worth replacing if it has any signs of damage..... need to check if a standard GTi is the same. The scrappy is your choice then rather than main stealer
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Edward
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:27 am Up
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Crank sensors are only about £18 and tend to always be in stock at the dealer...
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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macj
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:31 am Up
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not worth messing around with then.... just get a new one to eliminate it from your enquiries
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sri16v
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:32 pm Up
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bit of an update, after running a compression test, cylinder 1 nearest the cambelt had a reading of zero, no.2 was 160, no.3 135 and no 4 160.

Stripped off the inlet manifold to investigate and found a piece of plastic melted onto the inlet valve holding it open, have managed to remove what appears to be a cable tie from the valve, found another bit in the inlet manifold itself Mad

Im going to run it tommorow and hope it gets hot enough to burn off the rest of the cable tie, as I dont fancy stripping the head from the block for a piece of plastic.

any tips on bleeding the clutch?, just seems to be constant air coming through the bleed nipple, and still no pedal

2004 GTi 180
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sri16v
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:23 am Up
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all sorted, running sweet as a nut, car started on 3 cylinders but quickly settled down and ran on all 4. Had a bit of valve noise for a while but a top up of oil and all is well.

Bleeding the clutch was a nightmare, couldnt get a pedal, so used a bleeder that attaches to a spare wheel @ 20psi, bled it instantly.

Had a few fault codes stored from carrying out the compression test, but soon cleared them. Next job rear discs and pads.

2004 GTi 180
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