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 Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:19 am |
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Joined: Apr 01, 2012
Posts: 14
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Walsall
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Well I just hope it's the relays and abit of wiring and I don't have to replace the whole unit. Do I get the relays from Peugeot themselves or anywhere else I could get them?
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| Why do we bother with French cars! I just keep buying them. | |
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:20 am |
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Joined: Apr 01, 2012
Posts: 14
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Walsall
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Oh and cheers for all the help guys much appreciated.
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| Why do we bother with French cars! I just keep buying them. | |
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:47 am |
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Joined: May 20, 2010
Posts: 365
Trade Rating: +5
Location: Newcastle
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get the relays from pug, they aint to expensive.
can you turn the fan by hand? if so it isnt seized and id go straight for the relays tbh
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:25 am |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Dannyskittle: if you are going to do this by changing components (I am tight and hate doing it that way) rather than fault finding then:-
1. Check the fuses that I listed first.
2. Check all the connections, unplug them and then plug them back in. That should be enough to clean any corrosion from the connections.
3. Look closely at the wiring to make sure it isn't badly corroded.
4. Replace the relays.
Hopefully it is simple and component changing will fix it - if I was to put money on it I would bet in order:-
Low speed fan relay.
Earth for Fan / aircon control unit.
Bad connection.
Fan resistor (rheostat) or connection.
For those who think the circuit is simple have them explain exactly how the two speed switching works and exactly how the aircon / fan control unit works. NOTE: the earth path for the relay coils is via the aircon / fan control unit.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Last edited by kandlbarrett on Sun Apr 01, 2012 12:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:29 am |
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Joined: May 20, 2010
Posts: 365
Trade Rating: +5
Location: Newcastle
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get the relays from pug, they aint to expensive.
can you turn the fan by hand? if so it isnt seized and id go straight for the relays tbh
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 12:35 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Unplug the green temperature sensor. If the fan cuts in at high speed it is either the low speed circuit fuse (F38), the low speed relay, fan resistor, broken wire or bad connection.
If it doesn't cut in at all it is either the main fan fuse (MF2), fan ECU fuse (F37), fan relay, fan / aircon ECU earth, temperature sensor, fan, bad connections or broken wires.
After the initial test above the order of checking is still as previous post.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 8:47 am |
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Joined: Apr 01, 2012
Posts: 14
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Walsall
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Ok so finally got round to it, the relays snapped off, in the connectors, so dunno what to do there can I buy the whole lot, and also obviously it's been like this for a while because fan is really stiff, so off to pug to get fan and relays, but only worry is, is the relay pins are corroded into the connectors, wire them straight to the relays?
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| Why do we bother with French cars! I just keep buying them. | |
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Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 10:29 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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Maybe consider something like this as the relays come with connectors and fly leads to go straight in. You could install the relays somewhere less exposed then too
<<click here
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Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 6:09 pm |
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Joined: Apr 01, 2012
Posts: 14
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Walsall
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Yeah going to extend the wires anyway I think and put them up by ecu, as where they are behind the bumper is the worst place. Looks like I need a new resistor as it basically crumbled in my hand. Problem after problem, thanks for the reply.
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| Why do we bother with French cars! I just keep buying them. | |
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Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 4:04 pm |
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Joined: Apr 01, 2012
Posts: 14
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Walsall
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Ok Guys really need your help, relays changed and rewired, resistor changed, fan works as I tested this by connecting straight to battery and it spins fine, so tested the car by starting it and letting it getto temp, but it had hardly reached 90 when the water bottle started over flowing, as the preasure was to great and started to boil out the top, so what is the engine actually hotter then what it's reading? But fan didn't kick in and the slow speed fan didn't come on when I pressed the air con button, And left it on for 5 mins, can someone tell me next steps in basically what I should do next? Thanks guys
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| Why do we bother with French cars! I just keep buying them. | |
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Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 6:56 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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If the engine coolant is boiling but the engine temp sensor isn't seeing it then maybe you have an airlock near the ETS. If the ETS is getting coolant but it's not showing high temp then ETS isn't good. If there's no engine hot water getting to the ETS then maybe the thermostat is jammed in the closed position
Feel the top hose going to the radiator from the thermostat housing. If it's not getting hot when engine is up to temp then you have no water flow so either airlock or jammed thermostat
If there's no flow at all or poor flow then there's the possibility of corroded vanes on the water pump
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:02 am |
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Joined: Apr 01, 2012
Posts: 14
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Walsall
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The top hose gets hot, and the bottom hose gets hot, so there is flow, and I checked the for an air lock, well just coolant was coming out then topped up, no air what so ever, should I replace the ets? An see what that does? But surely the ets wouldn't matter when turning air con on? Surely the low speed fan should have come on?
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| Why do we bother with French cars! I just keep buying them. | |
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:38 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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The top hose gets hot, and the bottom hose gets hot, so there is flow,
yes so that's good and shows pump is working and thermostat is opening
and I checked the for an air lock, well just coolant was coming out then topped up, no air what so ever,
ok so that's good too but the question is why is gauge showing 90C when engine is boiling over?
should I replace the ets?
very possibly but you could check resistance at temps to see if it is telling lies or whether it's telling the truth and save yourself unnecessary expense
But surely the ets wouldn't matter when turning air con on? Surely the low speed fan should have come on?
That's correct
Many cars have two coolant temp sensors, one for dash gauge and rad fans (usually green) and the other for aircon (usually brown) .
If you disconnect the brown one does rad fan come on?
Has the engine overheated and head gasket gone? High coolant pressure and temperature are signs of head gasket failure
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 11:10 am |
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Joined: Apr 01, 2012
Posts: 14
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Walsall
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Don't think its the head gasket, as no signs, I mean the oil is fine, no gunky white stuff, I know sometimes you don't get that but just seems fine,
As for air con sensor well the air con light comes on but it makes no difference it's still warm, it just stopped working a while ago, thought it need re gasing and never got around to it, so what does this brown sensor do then? So if I unplug that, then turn aircon on, if it's working the fan should come on? So how would that brown sensor stop it? Sorry I just like to know what stuff does. But obviously I'm not getting high speed fan either as car boils, at 90 so I switch it off, how high should it get before high speed kicks in? As all this aircon stuff shouldnt affect the high speed fan should it? As don't they run on sort of separate systems?
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| Why do we bother with French cars! I just keep buying them. | |
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 2:03 pm |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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Don't think its the head gasket, as no signs, I mean the oil is fine, no gunky white stuff, I know sometimes you don't get that but just seems fine,
I hope it isn't too but it depends what channels are bridged with a failed head gasket. If it's oilway to coolant then you get the oil/coolant mix of the milky white stuff. If it's bridged between the compression bore and the coolant then you get over pressurised and extremely hot coolant all happening very quickly after start up with no affect on oil. It all depends what you're experiencing
If you've had no rad fan working on either low or high for a while then you are very likely to have over temped at some point, that will depend on your known history
AIRCON
If your air con needs regassing and it's insufficient for the compressor to be allowed to start then that will be why the rad fan doesn't start up either when you select air con. The pressurestat gives the ok for both to start
The brown coolant temp sensor is just for the air con system. Disconnecting it, purely as a test, will normally put the rad fan on high speed so it's a way of testing that side of the system
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