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Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 3:34 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010 Posts: 2718
Trade Rating: +6
Location: UK
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[quote="206DAG"] it doesn't seem to be knocking and ive no strange noise when changing gear or anything so i think i will be okay to do my usual running about this weekend before he gets to take a look monday.
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Well it sounded like you were going to drive it! How long have you owned the car? Looks like the previous owner might have played part in this.
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Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:52 am |
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Joined: Oct 16, 2011 Posts: 103
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Newcastle-under-lyme
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thats engine and gearbox mount,in 206 you have 3 of them one on the left,one on the right and one behind engine,if you gonna lost your last one screwe from right one engine ll hit the road crushing everythink,after that you can take your car on scrap yard,so better sort it out
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Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 5:38 am |
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Joined: Aug 13, 2011 Posts: 68
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Wakefield
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All sorted now secure and safe to drive.
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Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:21 am |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012 Posts: 529
Trade Rating: 0
Location: darlington
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Its not too difficult really-as far as the earth goes earths are called earths because they all commonly go to the ground or the earth which on a car is the earth or negative side of the battery-meaning if its a wire that needs to go to earth you can fasten it securely anywhere that is already earthing well itself-like most of the bolts on the engine/gearbox and most of the entire car for that matter,just find a nice thick bolt on your engine or gearbox that can hold your connector and use that-remember the entire shell of the car and the engine and gearbox are all earthed to the battery so you cant go far wrong mate.as for your stuck snapped bolt if you go to your local macheen mart or tuol station they all usualy sell a couple of methods for bolt extraction such as a drill and die set that you will drill carefully into the centre of the snapped nut then using the tool in the usual anti-clockwise motion for loosening,the tool enters the bolt and the more you turn the deeper the tool digs until it hits the bottom then you continue to turn in the same direction and this slowly loosens the snapped bolt with the tool impailed in the centre of it.Next take your details to your local peugeot dealer and order the bolts for the triangular plate-they are cheap and you cant go wrong with fitting them.
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Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:17 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010 Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece
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bezford wrote: |
Its not too difficult really-as far as the earth goes earths are called earths because they all commonly go to the ground or the earth which on a car is the earth or negative side of the battery-meaning if its a wire that needs to go to earth you can fasten it securely anywhere that is already earthing well itself-like most of the bolts on the engine/gearbox and most of the entire car for that matter,just find a nice thick bolt on your engine or gearbox that can hold your connector and use that-remember the entire shell of the car and the engine and gearbox are all earthed to the battery so you cant go far wrong mate.as for your stuck snapped bolt if you go to your local macheen mart or tuol station they all usualy sell a couple of methods for bolt extraction such as a drill and die set that you will drill carefully into the centre of the snapped nut then using the tool in the usual anti-clockwise motion for loosening,the tool enters the bolt and the more you turn the deeper the tool digs until it hits the bottom then you continue to turn in the same direction and this slowly loosens the snapped bolt with the tool impailed in the centre of it.Next take your details to your local peugeot dealer and order the bolts for the triangular plate-they are cheap and you cant go wrong with fitting them. |
It is not very good to assume all chassis parts are earthed the same because
of the extreme high-current involved when cranking.
Return (earth) paths are actually designed-in to minimise losses which become really big, even with 0.1 Ω difference.
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| 1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue
Repair safely - Drive safely | |
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:12 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012 Posts: 529
Trade Rating: 0
Location: darlington
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onLook mate im actualy the third person to mention this fact so dont just post to me if you disagree with this,and as far as the main shell and the majority of the engine and gearbox having different levels of earth-thats just not true,the earth circuit on a car is one very large all encompassing basic pole.Why would there be different levels as you say?apart from the starting circuit when cranking(which is issolated totaly anyway)an earth is not altered at all....What you say me be true of the positive circuits present but not for earths....wot losses due you mention anyway?
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Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 2:31 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010 Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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Normally when the main negative lead breaks of the gearbox on the 206 when you next go to start the engine it trys to earth itself back through the instrument cluster wiring which results in burning that part of the wiring loom out
You really need the main negative lead connected to the engine ( via the gearbox works just fine ) & the chassis to avoid problems / fires.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 2:32 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010 Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece
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bezford wrote: |
onLook mate im actualy the third person to mention this fact so dont just post to me if you disagree with this,and as far as the main shell and the majority of the engine and gearbox having different levels of earth-thats just not true,the earth circuit on a car is one very large all encompassing basic pole.Why would there be different levels as you say?apart from the starting circuit when cranking(which is issolated totaly anyway)an earth is not altered at all....What you say me be true of the positive circuits present but not for earths....wot losses due you mention anyway? |
I did not mean to direct post at you in an unfriendly way.
What I'm saying is the negative side of the battery 'sees' resistance to each unit it is
connected to (starter, alternator, ECU, lights etc) just like the positive.
So the connections and locations of all earth-straps is very much planned by the manufacturer
to minimize this resistance which could cause losses in a way that could affect long-term reliable opperation.
For example, if you move the main -ve battery connection off the gearbox (where all the heavy duty stuff is grounded) and attach it to a more distant part on the chassis, that resistance increase in the path could be as little as 0.01 Ω.
R x I = V
0.01 x 300 = 3 Volts drop when cranking compared to previously.
'Eddy' currents resultant from this longer route (eg alternator charging the battery) could also affect somewhat sensitive ECU/BSI because they want as clean supply possible.
(Remember alternator whine on the radio in the old-days? That was alt. interefernce affecting the headunit and grounding was first thing to check)
So agreed, it can make no difference whatsoever 9 out of 10 times.
But it could also cause problems further down the line so if given a choice,
I would replace earth straps at their original locations just for peace of mind.
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| 1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue
Repair safely - Drive safely | |
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