|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:07 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 04, 2012
Posts: 3
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Melbourne, Australia
|
 |
Hi there! Newbie on here hoping you can throw some thoughts to this unusual problem.
I've loved the past few years buzzing around in my GTi180, but recently got a nasty knock over certain types of bumps coming from right hand front area.
A reputable local dealer tested it and found hairline cracks on the sheetmetal where the RH top mount bolts on. The suggested fix was AUD/US$800 for a panel shop to weld and repair.
But is SUCH a small hairline crack I'm not convinced or keen to spend so much money chasing a rattle.
Would be BRILLIANT to get your quick thoughts. Here's the dealer's words:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Please refer to attached photos'.
*I have pointed out in one of the images where the crack is, (as it is hard to see).
This is situated underneath the right hand top engine mount assembly. As you can see in the photo the main hole in the middle is
where the engine mount stud bolts in.
-We suspect the noise is coming from this crack under movment of the engine over bumps etc..
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
1) What would have caused these cracks - Is it common on this model? I have seen this before, but not a common occurrence. The cause is not easily determined, possibly fatigue
of the metal, on the mounting point (where the crack is found, this is the location of the most amount of stress on the steel under load of the engine or under vibration (over bumps).
2) Why would this make a knocking sound - Because allows the engine to move & hit something (if so, where), or is it the sound of the panel crack 'opening/closing' & emitting a noise?
Correct, we suspect this noise is actually caused by the 2 surfaces of the cracked metal rubbing/ 'clicking' agianst each other.
3) Are all the engine mounts themselves in good condition?
Yes, under inspection all of the engine mount bushes are in good condition.
4) Were common things like the drop-links & wishbone bushes were checked (before resorting to this slightly radical repair)
We have carried out a full suspension wear & saftey check, we found nothing which requries any extra attention. All is ok
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Please note, because I'm new here I can't upload the photos. Happy to email them to somebody if they could perhaps do on my behalf? 
Cheers heaps in advance guys!
Lauren
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:18 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11518
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
|
|
I know the sporty 306's used to suffer from this exact same fault but its the first time i've heard of a 206 suffering from it.
Replacement panel time OR find a good welder that can repair / reinforce the panel.
| | |
|
|
|
|
 | |  |
| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
 | |  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:03 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
|
|
never seen that happen on a 206. (have seen on a 106/ saxo)
you sure the car wasn't suffer from a bad accident repair?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:54 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 04, 2012
Posts: 3
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Melbourne, Australia
|
|
Heyaz, Thanks for the couple of quick replies 
This car has never had an accident from new. It does travel over some pretty bumpy city roads (&we know how unforgiving the suspension is on these 180s), but still seems odd.
Wish could show you guys the photos at how small the crack is (for such a big noise). Am I missing somehting on how to attach? Just assume have to be around for a while/have enough posts etc?
That aside, any other thoughts as to what can create a knocking from the front RH area (given that the suspension was supposedly checked).
Massive cheers for any help you can offer!
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 3:19 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11518
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
|
|
Use a FREE photo uploader like Photobucket.
You upload the pictures to your Photobucket account & then simply copy & paste the link under the picture / pictures you want to display in to the the message you write on here.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 3:22 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
|
|
upload to facebook and then post out the link?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 6:25 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 526
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Italy
|
|
Hallo, just repaired my RC for the same problem last week...
Symptoms: knocking noise when pushing/releasing gas (try in 1st gear) and knocking passing upon short bumps (2cm or like that).
It costed 120€+VAT...
Oh, a nut was welded togheter with a reinforce plate to replace the old fixing...
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Silver grey RC|Pug Sport remap|Group A induction|Supersprint backbox|lower strut bar|RCCup wishbones|Eibach Pro-Street-S|302mm brakes+23.8 master cylinder|Vibra Technics|Quaife LSD|Cupra R splitter|modded bonnet vent|black Valeos|207i tail lights|Chromed rear foglight|Bi-xenon 6000k+all led (in+out)|406 rear mirror | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 12:14 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 04, 2012
Posts: 3
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Melbourne, Australia
|
|
Cheers for that. How did they do it? Weld up the cracks? Any idea what had to be removed to do so (and/or number of hours labour?)
Thanks heaps all. Oh, and will add to a friend's photobucket to show pix
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:23 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 526
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Italy
|
|
Well, not too much of work, I'd say 4 or 5 hours. You have to support engine from the bottom, then remove ECU, aluminium bracket from engine to support, than support itself.
Cracks (2 in my case) were welded at very high temperature, so metal becomes smooth, without the need of being polished.
As I said, it was removed the original nut from the bottom, and it was replaced with a triangular plate with a nut welded to it.
The triangular plate was then electro-welded to the chassis. Then, a final painting with metallic grey spray.
Remember to screw the support with some blue Loctite and a torque of 6 Nm (garage manual says 4,5, but 6 is firmier)...
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Silver grey RC|Pug Sport remap|Group A induction|Supersprint backbox|lower strut bar|RCCup wishbones|Eibach Pro-Street-S|302mm brakes+23.8 master cylinder|Vibra Technics|Quaife LSD|Cupra R splitter|modded bonnet vent|black Valeos|207i tail lights|Chromed rear foglight|Bi-xenon 6000k+all led (in+out)|406 rear mirror | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 2:43 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 06, 2012
Posts: 79
Trade Rating: +4
Location: lancashire
|
|
My 2001 gti (not 180) suffers from this knocking when accelerating then backing off. It has had top engine mounting replaced recently (belt side), and has also had front suspension and related components checked with no fault found.
Is it possible I have the same issue?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 1:33 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 526
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Italy
|
|
It could... Remove the support and check for cracks...
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Silver grey RC|Pug Sport remap|Group A induction|Supersprint backbox|lower strut bar|RCCup wishbones|Eibach Pro-Street-S|302mm brakes+23.8 master cylinder|Vibra Technics|Quaife LSD|Cupra R splitter|modded bonnet vent|black Valeos|207i tail lights|Chromed rear foglight|Bi-xenon 6000k+all led (in+out)|406 rear mirror | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17121
Online Now [531]:
Visitors: 530
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
