|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:45 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 15, 2011
Posts: 64
Trade Rating: 0
|
 |
right so ive tried to lower the rear end of my car 2wice now with no joy and its really p**sing me off!!
ive done all the step by step guides! car up,wheels off, mesured,taken bolts n washers out, soaked in wd40 applyed slight heat on the bars! used a slide hammer and knocking from the other side! but the bars simply wont come out! ive had one bar come out of one end bt the trailing arm kept coming with it! and the other wont budge! anyone got any HELPFUL advice for me?
help would be very much appriciated!
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:00 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 13, 2010
Posts: 1032
Trade Rating: +10
Location: sutton surrey/welwyn garden city
|
|
More heat, bigger hammer!
| | |
|
|
|
|
 | |  |
| You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive | |
 | |  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:05 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 301
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Northamptonshire/Bedfordshire
|
|
Just told my dad about this as he used to work for Peugeot, he said he used to use a Porto pump to do the torsion bars sometimes.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:06 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 301
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Northamptonshire/Bedfordshire
|
|
Or what ukskater01 said more heat and a bigger hammer
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:08 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 15, 2011
Posts: 64
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
problem im havin is the trailing arm keeps comeing with the bars
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 11:03 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 5120
Trade Rating: +19
Location: Raunds, Northamptonshire
|
|
| nathdavies91 wrote: |
| problem im havin is the trailing arm keeps comeing with the bars |
hit them other way, thats what i do. trailing arms wont come off then.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 12:02 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 21, 2010
Posts: 422
Trade Rating: +7
Location: COV
|
|
right i had the same problem as you and nearly gave up but this worked for me. keep knocking the bar thats pushing the trailing arm out but only knock the bar about 1inch so that it just becomes free from the trailing arm side that you are knocking from. This obviously will have pushed the trailing arm over 1inch on the other side, thats ok. Now go under the car and give the bar a few yanks up and down from the side thats free. then you want to go back and push the trailing arm thats moved 1inch back to it original position and the bar should reloate back into the trailing arm that it was knocked out from. Then staying on the side where the trailing arm moved 1inch you want to now knock the bar from that side and for me it started to move. Hope this help if you can get your head round it 
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 7:20 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 29, 2010
Posts: 3977
Trade Rating: +15
Location: Halifax
|
|
or put the car next to a wall or strong post and wedge some wood between it and the trailing arms. Then you can hit it as hard as you want.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 2:42 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 04, 2010
Posts: 1691
Trade Rating: +3
Location: northallerton
|
|
| Rob2859 wrote: |
| or put the car next to a wall or strong post and wedge some wood between it and the trailing arms. Then you can hit it as hard as you want. |
i tried this yesterday with no luck i kept bending the thread i made up,
ill try what raj mentioned as that seams like it will help
ill report back later 
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:10 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 672
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Notts
|
|
you'll squash the end if you keep wacking i had to get my bars re-tapped after i dropped it
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:45 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 7093
Trade Rating: +11
Location: Suffolk
|
|
I use a sledge hammer than almost knocks the car off the axle stands
Some take PROPER force to get off
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Team Impossible Possible
The only way of finding the limits of the possible is by going beyond them into the impossible - Arthur C. Clarke
Forged 1.6 Turbo
Click to see more
144Bhp @ 7PSi - 193.9Bhp @ 13psi
206 Gti Race Car
Click to see more
For all Race/Track Preparation, Feel Free to PM Me!
Whether its for a custom ratio gearbox or track-day alignment, I can help! | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:02 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 21, 2010
Posts: 422
Trade Rating: +7
Location: COV
|
|
| 138Andy wrote: |
| you'll squash the end if you keep wacking i had to get my bars re-tapped after i dropped it |
what i did to stop this happening, was to loosely screw back in the bolt once the washer was out and place a socket over the bolt that was a few mm bigger and hit the socket. The bolt would keep the socket central but the impact would be to the bar.
| | |
|
|
|
|
Last edited by -RAJ- on Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:03 am; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:02 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
|
|
Try some releasing oil instead of WD40.
Alternatively take the axle off the car and stand it vertically. This allows the penetrating oil to sit in the end of the arm/axle and will soak into the tiny spaces around the torsion bar splines.
Dont forget to put the torsion bar bolts back in the torsion bar just hand tight (minus the washer) when hitting the bars out. Otherwise there is a strong change of damaging the bar ends and thread. You can hit the bolts as hard as you like. Then order some new bolts from the dealer.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 4:20 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 04, 2010
Posts: 1691
Trade Rating: +3
Location: northallerton
|
|
i managed to get the top bar out with some wiggling then it came out easy, the lower one is proving difficult as thre is little room with the exhast there so i might take that off and try to wiggle more, think last resort would be to have the bar heated to break the rust, would the car be ok to drive with 1 std one and one at 22mm, sure for sort distance the garage it would be fine, any other helpful tips??
i have wedged the arm with a bar to stop it moving
im trying not to remove the axel as i dont want tobrake any of the brake lines like i have in the past with rusty seized hoses,
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 5:12 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 21, 2011
Posts: 791
Trade Rating: +5
Location: Bourne, Lincs
|
|
just take it to a place who can do it for you, saves you all the hard work 
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| Ford Focus RS in white of course 
filled with all sorts of goodies | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17126
Online Now [101]:
Visitors: 100
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
