|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 3:16 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
 |
Hey all, nice site you've got here. Really liking all the info.
I have a problem though with my GTi 180. The engie is all juddery on idle and when trying to keep revs constant on neutral it still judders and the revs go up and down, like +-200. It feels like its trying to work against something that keeps it from revving freely. When trying to slowly give it more gas it doesn't rev smoothly, shaking and every now and then spluttering and then rising a bit smoother then the needle drops again with spluttering then rises a bit etc.
When driving it feels like it's got some power left at least but idk doesn't feel as fast as it should. Every now and then it loses power when cruising and then it picks up again as quickly as it came. Granted, it has some squeky brakes and one rear brake is dragging(going to sort it out) and could be its brake sticking momentarily but doesn't explain the neutral revving.
I've cleaned the VVT valve, gave the MAP sensor a good spray, have put some injector etc. cleaner in the gas and it has hydraulic lifter + some oil friction reducer additive in. Checked the throttle body and the valve and they seemed clean enough, sprayed the little muck that was there. Air filter is K&N washable.
Now im about to change plugs(to FQR7ME) & coil pack in one go, thing is that the coil that's in right now is Valeo and the coil that I got is Valeo too, so that at least rules out the Sagem faults.
The coil pack that I got has exactly the same markings as the one that's in, with the exception that the new one has had the part number machined out, dunno what's that about. I got it from a local big spare parts shop. The clear coating on top looks a tiny bit different at least.
Should I change the coil anyway or just the plugs? I wouldn't want to sped 160euro for nothing. The current plugs are Denso.
Don't have the chance to read the codes atm, garages are gonna take a lot just for that.
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:52 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 147
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Coventry
|
|
Could very well be the coil pack but it's hard to tell (as usual with all things internet). If you change the pack and plugs and the problem persists, bleed the pressure from the fuel rail and check the injectors are sealed properly and that there aren't any obvious signs of damage.
If you've checked the VVT solenoid and cleaned the intake system I would get it on a diag machine.
Have you ever had the cam belt changed? (sometimes independant garages don't know how to do the EW10J4S engine and think it's the same as doing a normal 206..... wrong. That might mean the exhaust cam is a notch or two out meaning lumpy idle, no power/ loss of power etc).
| | |
|
|
|
|
 | |  |
| 2004 206 GTi 180: 207.9BHP, 183.1 ft/lbs | |
 | |  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:57 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Well bit the bullet and changed pack & plugs. No change. Was thinking about injectors but lack the knowledge to check them. It has had the belt changed but not under my ownership and I hope the one who had it done would have noticed something's wrong.
Here's a bit of video of the behaviour: www.movshare.net/video...ykda5kx582
I also noticed (not in the video) that I can get the car to almost stall if I pump the pedal fast so the revs stay even (at around 1,2k or so, stays more solid than with just trying to give it constant gas!) and then hit the gas harder and immediately let go, the engine splutters and revs higher then almost stalls. I'll maybe post a vid of this too.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:00 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4014
Trade Rating: +2
|
|
Why not get a diagnostic done instead of spending lots of money guessing.
I know they aren't cheap but its got to be better than guessing and wasting money.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:14 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Yeah its booked for monday and going to ask for it then. Probably no codes anyway.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:15 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4014
Trade Rating: +2
|
|
| Maqer wrote: |
| Yeah its booked for monday and going to ask for it then. Probably no codes anyway. |
You'll probably have hundreds 
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:52 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
| Big_Rich180 wrote: |
| Maqer wrote: |
| Yeah its booked for monday and going to ask for it then. Probably no codes anyway. |
You'll probably have hundreds |
Ah, well, that could be true. This is indeed a bit newer engine than the one I used to have which didn't really record anything but the really clearly failed components.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:31 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
So turns out there were no codes after all. The guy couldn't say what could be wrong, just mentioned that it runs really rough. It was booked for fixing the brakes anyway and no time to go into the engine in detail.
Next up for me is checking the injectors(or the seals anyway). Any hints for that?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 11:27 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Hmm.. the right rear brake sticking is fixed for sure, the car rolls and gets going with ease now. However, I've noticed the steering still occasionally very clearly pulls to the right.
I was thinking it might be because of the brake but no, its definetly pulling right and a lot. When stopping for lights and letting go of the steering wheel it now and then acts like I've turned the wheel 90 degrees to the right or so.
I haven't noticed it being that bad on highway speeds, the pull is a lot more powerful when going slow.
Something dodgy in the power steering? I'll need to go and get it aligned but could something in the power steering cause the engine to behave badly - leaks maybe?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 11:32 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Got the coil pack returned at least, so no money wasted there. Still, there being no codes is kind of puzzling.
The rev fluctuation is a lot worse when cold. Giving just a hint of gas makes the needle rise slooowly up, first to like ~1k then after 10 secs or so to 1,5k then dropping to 1k then up again.
Guess the symptoms are so vague that no one can give any input.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 2:50 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
Going for a monologue here but I looked into this thread 206info.co.uk/Forums/v...49663.html and didn't know the hissing sound isn't normal. My power steering wheezes and hisses even when just turning the wheel and most certainly a lot when on full lock. I think I also hear some weird noise from around the power steering unit when idling.
Are those fluids that are supposed to plug leaks in Psteering systems any good?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:12 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 15, 2012
Posts: 26
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
the problem seems to be the butterfly sticking in the fully closed position, which it is not normally in as it has to be slightly open to allow idle, how ever because the TB is sticking closed the motor has to drive back to open which is more open than the ECU (hysteresis or back lash) expected causing revs to rise and the ecu driving the throttle back to closed then repeats it.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 11:00 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
| tri-stu wrote: |
| the problem seems to be the butterfly sticking in the fully closed position, which it is not normally in as it has to be slightly open to allow idle, how ever because the TB is sticking closed the motor has to drive back to open which is more open than the ECU (hysteresis or back lash) expected causing revs to rise and the ecu driving the throttle back to closed then repeats it. |
Sounds reasonable, however I've checked the TB and the butterfly movement seemed smooth and also it was opened slightly by default - if I pushed it shut it automatically opened a little and stayed there, unless I opened it more by hand.
Also the engine is having a lot of trouble even when applying gas.
Im going to need to have a look in the power steering stuff. How would one go topping up the "power steering pump" or is it just the reservoir with the cap on it?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:00 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 31, 2012
Posts: 24
Trade Rating: 0
|
|
I've ordered 8 new injector gaskets as the engine has had an oil leak in the cover gasket and the injectors look very oily, wondering if they might be getting some air from around there as someone suggested. However, I sprayed a lot of brake cleaner on the injectors and no change in engine sound. Could be dodgy injectors but wouldnt they produce a fault code?
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:40 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 06, 2012
Posts: 11
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Devon
|
|
Power steering fluid resiviour is topped up to the c when the car is cold.
Have you checked all vacuum hoses and electrical connections to your throttle body?
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| 206 Gti 180sp\r\nStill scares me  | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17123
Online Now [434]:
Visitors: 433
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
