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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › gear link snapped off again


 
 

gear link snapped off again
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Sim
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 3:53 pm Up
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Hello,

Apparently my gear linkage snapped off again (mechanic welded it two months ago), you can see the welding signs:

 


How could this be fixed so it does not happen again so quickly?

This might be related to the shaking when braking that snapped gear link so fast again.. : www.206info.co.uk/Foru...tml#559156

Cheers,

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
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Andrew
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 4:20 pm Up
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Why would you weld a gear linkage? :S

These are really good: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peu...519a0bfca1

Just put copper grease in the ball joints

My 206 thread
www.detailedbyandrew.com
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Sim
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 4:24 pm Up
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It's the #5 that's snapped off (apparently the self-tap screw can't get back in place so that mechanic decided to weld it):
 

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
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cartoonhead
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 4:29 pm Up
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looking at them 3 spots of weld you would have been better off with blue tac

wheres it snapped off at ?

{ EDIT } you reposted as i was relpying Smile

thats the pivet point for the gear linkage and that needs to move so welding it will not help and now seeing as its full of weld the only way to sort it is either a new sub frame or remove that one and grind the weld out and re thread the hole.

you say a mechanic welded it ?

 

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Sim
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 4:38 pm Up
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Probably they chose to weld it as there was no good way to get access to that #71 above.

Snapped at my workplace Smile Remained in the 2nd gear and made all those 30miles home revving and coasting, THAT WAS FUN!

Who knows where it snapped off at, but it was definitely at where they have welded it Smile

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
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cartoonhead
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 4:50 pm Up
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i'd find a new mechanic as the one you have has made a whole load of expense for you.

as i said the only way to sort that now is either a new sub frame or remove that one and recut the thread but neither is going to be cheap as a fair ammount of work is involved Sad

take it to another garage and see what they say when you tell them a mechanic welded it Wink

 

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spike_202
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:01 pm Up
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Is this off the sub frame? I had a similar problem but mine was on a down shift from 4 down to 3 then the pivot point snapped and I over revved........ Big bill. I just got mine wielded up and new gear linkages put on
 

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Sim
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:08 pm Up
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Yes, it is off the sub-frame. My one was downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, felt weird, but luckily it went fully into the 2nd, and then snapped (figured out when started to look for the 3rd again, but found none :D)

I should go under and take more pictures of how the pivot link mount post looks like, and whether there is any thread remaining for it.

Thanks for the names of the car parts, now that I could google "pug 206 sub frame" things are getting clearer and clearer Smile

2.0 HDi, year 2000 (E's restin')
Red GTi 180, year 2004 (VorTechS' sEXy Beast (being) remasteRed)
Blue GTi 180, year 2004 (in hibernation after endless driving fun in 2019, queued for "cambelt in tight spaces")
Missus' 1.6 16v CC, year 2007 (L-plates to P-plates to NO-plates, but now she wants powwer:))
£50 1.4 HDi, year 2002 (seatless transporter, SORNed, rust needs patching)
EV
Jag S(crapped)- & X-Type
GTC VXR (sold)
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Seabook
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:14 pm Up
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surely that can't be expensive from new?
 
 

 

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cartoonhead
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:18 pm Up
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Seabook wrote:
surely that can't be expensive from new?

its the 16mm bolt that's sheared off from the looks of it Wink

 

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Steve206
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:26 pm Up
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If you take the battery and battery box out, you should have enough access.
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anton1989
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:28 pm Up
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if you need another subframe i have one Wink £20 collection cv11
 
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cartoonhead
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:47 pm Up
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spike_202
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 6:55 pm Up
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That's the 1 cartoonhead that wield on the pivot point cost me over 1k
 

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Seabook
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 7:32 pm Up
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spike_202 wrote:
That's the 1 cartoonhead that wield on the pivot point cost me over 1k

am i being nuts? can you not replace it with a new one? Confused

 
 

 

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