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 Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:17 am |
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Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 147
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Coventry
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If the earth is dodgy, it should be easily recognisable, rust/ damage/ split's/ bare wire etc etc. If you can't see any of this evidence on any of the neg wires/ terminals then I would suggest checking battery status/ alternator charge. If that's all ok, unfortunately it may be time to look at the ECU (BUT THIS IS WORST CAE SCENARIO..... check the cheap and 'easy' stuff first).
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| 2004 206 GTi 180: 207.9BHP, 183.1 ft/lbs | |
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 3:00 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 529
Trade Rating: 0
Location: darlington
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If your wiring,earth straps are ok i find a damn good thrashing for 10-20 miles really blows away the cobwebs and any crap thats collected in the fuel lines engine cylinders etc.If this has no effect or best do it even if it does,then spray every wire connection under bonnet with wd40 and make sure that no damp is getting into the cockpit-thru a rear window thats not catched correctly or a missing gromet or sumthing
This weather especialy, will play havoc with electrics when the damp gets in.is there any mist behind your clocks screen?and does the interior fog up easily?without people in it especialy???
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 3:43 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece
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Should also check ECU earthing as there has been an Info Flash specificaly describing the symptoms of the OP, and it says poor ECU earth connection or battery -ve connection.
If you can use a meter to check voltage drop between battery -ve and gearbox (should be near 0V at idle) that is much better than just visual.
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| 1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue
Repair safely - Drive safely | |
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 3:44 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece
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| bezford wrote: |
If your wiring,earth straps are ok i find a damn good thrashing for 10-20 miles really blows away the cobwebs and any crap thats collected in the fuel lines engine cylinders etc.If this has no effect or best do it even if it does,then spray every wire connection under bonnet with wd40 and make sure that no damp is getting into the cockpit-thru a rear window thats not catched correctly or a missing gromet or sumthing
This weather especialy, will play havoc with electrics when the damp gets in.is there any mist behind your clocks screen?and does the interior fog up easily?without people in it especialy??? |
No.
Don't use WD40 on any contacts ever.
Only use contact-spray designed for the job.
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| 1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue
Repair safely - Drive safely | |
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 3:00 pm |
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Joined: Sep 23, 2011
Posts: 43
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leicester
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Hi all,
I had a quick look at my dads car tonight but ran out of light to do much more.
We removed the battery and battery casing and located the earth cables on gearbox housing. Could only do a visual check but they felt solid and new movement on them or cracks in the rubber around the cable. Also no signs of rust etc on the bolts holding them in place.
Tried to remove the ECU but we could only get the front mounting bolt of the ECU off. We could not work out how to remove the rear ECU mounting bracket bolt as body work was in the way and no room to get anything down there to remove. If anyone has any tips on this that will be great on how to remove the ECU. Is the earth for the ECU under the bracket mounting it?
Chris
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Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 11:20 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece
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There is a single nut at the front which holds-down the whole plate (ECU bolts onto that with another two nuts).
Undo that and the whole plate slides-out with the relay unit mounted underneath.
I would remove-reinsert the ECU connector(s) but don't use contact spray on there.
Careful when removing as the have a dual locking system with a 'finger'-key as well as the big lever 'bracket' around the connector.
The relay underneath has a Bosch type locking-connector,
unplug it and put some contact-spray on the pins, but not WD40.
There is usually another thinner (yellow?) cable mounted on the gearbox near the main earth-strap from the battery, that is the ECU earth.
Also check the +ve connection which goes to the fusebox on the right.
It should be firmly bolted and with no rot, battery and fusebox-end.
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| 1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue
Repair safely - Drive safely | |
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Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 5:15 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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For main +ve and -ve I would undo them, wire brush and refit. A visual and check with a meter is not good enough for the currents that these pass.
A 1 ohm resistance on a connector will limit the current from a 12V battery to 12 amps. it takes well over 100A to start cranking your car!
Bad connections are a ****** to find and cause some weird symptoms.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:50 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 529
Trade Rating: 0
Location: darlington
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chrisb1357......i wasnt just sayin it for the fun-honestly give my previous msg. instructions a try,the reason i commented on your post was because ive just had the same problem cured by a really good blast down the roads and a water proofing layer of wd40(or a similar water dispersant(please note user V9977 is from greece....where the weather is better than ours.....and the wd40 is called somthin else no doubt))on all connections.
did you check for damp impregnating the cockpit?i left a rear window(3 door model)open for 3-4 days and it did my car in with mist/fog behind the clocks and seriosely steamy windows,but worse was it started upsetting my electronics so i did what i said with wd40 under the bonnet,closed window and heated her good for a long while and gave her a good thrash
-during thrashing i broke down completely so waited 20 mins then started up and ran fast then she started spluttering for a short while then while slowing to 30ish she cut out completely so i put her in 2nd while still rolling along and jumped her off.....she wouldnt go at first but fired up after a few seconds(a normal rolling jump like this should fire up almost instantly)and i thrashed her for a few miles and ive had no bother since so give it a try...
.i hate seeing people waste time and money when the answer is staring them in the face......do it man...p.s.when i say thrash i just mean low gears upto 5500revs max.we dont want to blow these things completly....and if yours isnt the gti just rev to 4500-maybe5000revs....its a fact that engines need a good run every now and again,especialy if you make lots of short journeys.
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Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 8:47 pm |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 2949
Trade Rating: +6
Location: Athens, Greece
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| bezford wrote: |
chrisb1357......i wasnt just sayin it for the fun-honestly give my previous msg. instructions a try,the reason i commented on your post was because ive just had the same problem cured by a really good blast down the roads and a water proofing layer of wd40(or a similar water dispersant(please note user V9977 is from greece....where the weather is better than ours.....and the wd40 is called somthin else no doubt))on all connections.
did you check for damp impregnating the cockpit?i left a rear window(3 door model)open for 3-4 days and it did my car in with mist/fog behind the clocks and seriosely steamy windows,but worse was it started upsetting my electronics so i did what i said with wd40 under the bonnet,closed window and heated her good for a long while and gave her a good thrash
-during thrashing i broke down completely so waited 20 mins then started up and ran fast then she started spluttering for a short while then while slowing to 30ish she cut out completely so i put her in 2nd while still rolling along and jumped her off.....she wouldnt go at first but fired up after a few seconds(a normal rolling jump like this should fire up almost instantly)and i thrashed her for a few miles and ive had no bother since so give it a try...
.i hate seeing people waste time and money when the answer is staring them in the face......do it man...p.s.when i say thrash i just mean low gears upto 5500revs max.we dont want to blow these things completly....and if yours isnt the gti just rev to 4500-maybe5000revs....its a fact that engines need a good run every now and again,especialy if you make lots of short journeys. |
WD40 is called WD40 everywhere in the world.
It is slow-poison for modern electrical connectors after some time and should never be used for low-voltage applications.
It's designed to form an insulating layer on the surface (hence good for HT lines in the old days of distributors, to drive the damp out and prevent arcing) and it soaks-in the metal to stop rust..
It's just as easy to get a proper contact cleaner/lube spray but even then, some connectors should not be treated
for various reasons ICBA to explain.
As for the weather, it get's so hot durring the summer that all vehicles are driven and serviced as per 'severe adverse conditions' specified by manufacturers over here.
If you read the OP symptoms, I don't think a 'good thrashing' will fix it.
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| 1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue
Repair safely - Drive safely | |
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Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:11 pm |
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Joined: Sep 23, 2011
Posts: 43
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leicester
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Hi
Sorry not got back to people yet. been busy weekend.
When we removed the front bolt of the ECU we could only see a 2nd one which was at the back of the ECU and could not get any tools into that area to undo and not work out how to remove.
Weather not been great here so got to wait until next weekend to look at but my dad took car out again the other day and all dials went to left and made clicking sound then clock date and time reset
Chris
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Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 6:21 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 529
Trade Rating: 0
Location: darlington
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so u aint gonna try my advice it seems?well just so you know you now need a bsi soft reset doing aswell................see "DILLON"for instructions on how to do this,this will solve your mad clocks and time etc.........still think you would get the right result from my advice prior.
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Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:23 am |
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Joined: Sep 23, 2011
Posts: 43
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leicester
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Hi
I have taken your advice and told my dad. He has not got back to me yet.
I guest the BSI controls all the internal elec functions
Chris
| bezford wrote: |
| so u aint gonna try my advice it seems?well just so you know you now need a bsi soft reset doing aswell................see "DILLON"for instructions on how to do this,this will solve your mad clocks and time etc.........still think you would get the right result from my advice prior. |
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Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:33 am |
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Joined: Sep 23, 2011
Posts: 43
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leicester
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I am still stuck on how to remove the ECU so i can check the earth under that location
Chris
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Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 3:00 pm |
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Joined: Apr 19, 2012
Posts: 529
Trade Rating: 0
Location: darlington
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ive never removed mine but it must be accessible in some way?have you tried from underneath?maybe taking the wheel off,or just access with wheel on full lock?i do know that the black plastic that forms the inner wheel arch is easily removed just 3 or 4 plastic studs(be careful not to damage the studs too much as they need to go back on)they just look like penny sized black discs about half inch across from here,
you can leave the wheel on then remove them by getting good pliers,push the main cover back best you can,and grip the stud hard with pliers and pull out riveing as you go.....also there could be a philips screw just under the front bumper....once this plastic arch cover is off you can get much better view/access from beneath HOWEVER ive never took my ecu off so there's no guarantee this removal of the arch will help???
ANYWAY if you try my prior remedy for this you might not even need to remove the ecu so try the good run out at speed and spraying with water dispersant first....also to get best results from my theory you would be wise to make sure the battery has a good charge and the bsi soft reset has been done before you set off for a run to give it the best chance at working.......cars get choked up and a good speedy run can work wanders,just be careful!!!!!!
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