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 Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:05 pm |
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Joined: Jan 28, 2013
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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Does anyone know any tricks or tips to remove the downpipe and what tools I'll be needing to do so? I own a 2001 1.4 LX. Cheers!
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:36 pm |
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Joined: Aug 19, 2011
Posts: 619
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Wiltshire
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The manifold? Remove the studs the attach it to the engine, carefully as they will probably be corroded and snap, just used lots of WD40 or similar. Then just undo the clamp under the car holdingit to the centre section.
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| Project Low and Slow.. Going Euro for 2013. Keep your eyes peeled, big plans ahead..
See my project here. | |
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:40 pm |
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Joined: Jan 28, 2013
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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No, not the manifold. On my model the cat is part of the downpipe which is a right pain in the a**e. The bolts do look pretty corroded so, I'll be sure to take care of those while undoing them.
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:42 pm |
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Joined: Aug 19, 2011
Posts: 619
Trade Rating: +2
Location: Wiltshire
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My cat is part of the manifold, I'm sure its all joined together?
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| Project Low and Slow.. Going Euro for 2013. Keep your eyes peeled, big plans ahead..
See my project here. | |
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:47 pm |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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There are 4 nuts underneath that secure the downpipe with cat to the exhaust manifold.
The 4 studs in the manifold are removable / replaceable - BUT its best not to snap them in the first place.
Good idea to replace the nuts & gasket when its reassembled.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:09 pm |
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Joined: Jan 16, 2013
Posts: 158
Trade Rating: 0
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Very easy job to do, i have just changed my complete exhaust system including cat on my 2001 1.4 LX. Just make sure you do not use any exhaust paste on part before cat.
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:58 pm |
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 2596
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North West Wales
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13mm socket and a long extension bar from underneath and it's 4 nuts.
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:05 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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In my experience WD40 is not the best penetrating oil for rusted parts.
For penetrating threads on rusted nuts / bolts I would put them in this order:-
Plusgas.
GT85.
WD40.
Many times after removing rusted nuts I find that WD40 hasn't penetrated the thread where the nut is sat at all. I very rarely find that with Plusgas.
Recently I have been using Loctite Freeze & Release. It is amazing stuff and works by first freezing the item down to -43 giving a thermal shock to the part making it easier for the lub to penetrate. Not sure if it really gets down to -43 but it is very cold and really seems to work.
As for reassembly to avoid corrosion I buy brass nuts and also coat the studs with coppaslip or VHT grease.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:07 pm |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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Decent manifold nuts can be made out of copper or brass.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:13 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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You can also by longer brass nuts that completely cover the thread on the studs. No thread exposed so no thread to rust.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:15 pm |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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I get the feeling most people on here would either re use the old nuts or wack some nylocs on there 
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:36 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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MrBSI +1 there.
If you ever had an old Alfa with their early (1960s based all alloy 8V in line twin cam) they left the factory with brass (copper?) nuts on the exhaust manifold.
Then they also had cooling fins cast onto the outside of the alloy sump and anti surge baffles cast inside the sump. The cam chain is also tensioned by a jockey wheel that is adjustable externally while the engine idles.
Also cam timing was an amazing design with the drive sprockets bolting to the cam flanges with a single 10mm bolt to set the timing and a central nut holding it all together. The sprocket has 15 holes and the cam flange has 16 holes that the 10mm bolt went through making timing variable but securely locked in 1.25 degree increments.
Alfa knew about engines then. Just a shame about the steel and electrics.
There that is my praise of Alfa over. Back to 206s now though I am on Alfaowner.com at the same time.
OP (ReignSupreme) please accept my apologies for going off topic.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:57 am |
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Joined: Jan 28, 2013
Posts: 17
Trade Rating: 0
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Finally got round to giving this ago today. Removed all the bolts and Co2 sensor and realised that it wasn't the cat I needed to change. The reason the exhaust was blowing was because the mechanic I used last time (I wont again) didn't put the center exhaust clip back on. Jobsworth!
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