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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › Failed the MOT...


 
 

Failed the MOT...
Forum Index206 Problems
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Steve206
PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 7:51 am Up
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Suspension isn't linked to the engine though?
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paulspug
PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 9:35 am Up
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Then i am as puzzled as you , but it was definatly broke, didnt cost much to repair as i got 2nd hand stuff on fleabay.
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tobycooke
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:31 am Up
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So for a quick update...

Drop links came yesterday, i jacked a side up at a time grinded the bottom nut off and then grinded through the ball joint of the drop link on the top nut because as you will know its impossible to get at the nut with a grinder.

When fitting the new drop links i put the bottom thread in the hole and loosely stuck the nut on, i then got a crow bar and pushed the roll bar down until the top thread was in place then tightened the two nuts up, probably took me 2 hours from start to finish. I live in a dirt road so took it through some pot holes and there was no knocking what so ever!!

Soo now the fuel tank strap has just been delivered , so i will go out and give that a go now and will update you all on how it went...fingers crossed!!

 
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tobycooke
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:32 am Up
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So for a quick update...

Drop links came yesterday, i jacked a side up at a time grinded the bottom nut off and then grinded through the ball joint of the drop link on the top nut because as you will know its impossible to get at the nut with a grinder.

When fitting the new drop links i put the bottom thread in the hole and loosely stuck the nut on, i then got a crow bar and pushed the roll bar down until the top thread was in place then tightened the two nuts up, probably took me 2 hours from start to finish. I live in a dirt road so took it through some pot holes and there was no knocking what so ever!!

Soo now the fuel tank strap has just been delivered , so i will go out and give that a go now and will update you all on how it went...fingers crossed!!

 
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Edward
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:01 am Up
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Rule number 1 when replacing drop links or any anti roll bar component. Both sides of the car need to be on the same level.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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LeeThr
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:05 am Up
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Edward wrote:
Rule number 1 when replacing drop links or any anti roll bar component. Both sides of the car need to be on the same level.

Not heard that before, how come it needs to be level?

Never had any trouble with any of the one's i've done with it not being level.

 


gogs_macaulay wrote:
LeeThr wrote:
One Hundred million bazillion gatrillion pink rupee's
Shut it u stupid little f**k, what's the point in posting in all my treads being such a c***? Least I can afford a gti180, and to get the cam belt done!

So apparently everyone knows my financial situation? If I wanted a 180 I would have bought a 180 simples Smile

The garage
2003 - 206 GTi 138 - Moonstone Blue
2003 - 406 Coupé 2.2 HDi SE - Hyperion Blue
2000 - 206 2L HDi D-Turbo ECO - Cherry Red
1999 - 306 GTi-6 - Blue (haven't worked out if it's Nile or China yet)
1987 - 205 GTi 1.9 - Graphite Gray

I must be mad.....
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tobycooke
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:20 am Up
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So im in the middle of trying to take the old fuel tank strap off, and well there dirty and gunked up as f***, can not for the life of me figure out how i am going to get the bolts off, any ideas or has any one found this problem before and how did you solve it...
 
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DevonTony
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:58 am Up
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Hi, you really need to clean up the threads with a wire brush or a round wire brush attachment on an angle grinder or a drill. Then as suggested give it a good soaking with penetrating oil and see if they will undo (gently) if they feel like they start to tighten up to the point they may snap try the old tighten again spray with oil then loosen, repeat as necessary. With the car on axle stands use a block of wood and your trolley jack to support the weight of the tank + fuel before you remove the strap. I painted the new strap with waxoyl before i put it on and coated the nuts + threads so it will not rust again. Very Happy
52 reg 1.4HDi
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Edward
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:03 am Up
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LeeThr wrote:
Edward wrote:
Rule number 1 when replacing drop links or any anti roll bar component. Both sides of the car need to be on the same level.

Not heard that before, how come it needs to be level?


If one side is jacked up the suspension on that side is at full drop. The other side is compressed. The anti roll bar being linked to the compressed side will also be higher up than is desired on the unloaded side. So your drop link will be harder to reach between ARB and strut.

As for the tank strap nuts as I said get some WD-40 on them or similar and clean the threads. Loosen the nuts slightly them wind them back on. Then clean the threads again. New nuts would be a very good idea. As I suggested before.

2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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tobycooke
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:13 am Up
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DevonTony wrote:
Hi, you really need to clean up the threads with a wire brush or a round wire brush attachment on an angle grinder or a drill. Then as suggested give it a good soaking with penetrating oil and see if they will undo (gently) if they feel like they start to tighten up to the point they may snap try the old tighten again spray with oil then loosen, repeat as necessary. With the car on axle stands use a block of wood and your trolley jack to support the weight of the tank + fuel before you remove the strap. I painted the new strap with waxoyl before i put it on and coated the nuts + threads so it will not rust again. Very Happy

Ok will give that a go!! Thanks, it seems that the one thats on is rounded so got my dad on his way to try and get it off for me because i know ill get carried away and break something like i usually do haha

 
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DevonTony
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:32 am Up
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It's a pain when someone has rounded a nut off!! if you have some old imperial size sockets you may find one that is slightly smaller which you can tap on using an extension bar and a hammer, sometimes works! Just remember to replace with a new nut so that you don't end up having to struggle again in the future. Good luck!! it's all part of the learning curve, and yes i always used to get my dad to help as well always good to have someone else to blame if it goes wrong ha ha! Very Happy
52 reg 1.4HDi
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tobycooke
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:44 am Up
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Haha that is my exact plan, if i brake it he will be like "well you should t have done this and should have done this.." At least this way if he breaks it..he fixes it!! Plus saves me spending my day under the car in the rain Razz will update thread when i have got somewhere..
 
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Steve206
PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:20 am Up
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Edward wrote:
Rule number 1 when replacing drop links or any anti roll bar component. Both sides of the car need to be on the same level.

Whenever I've done mine I have jacked under the strut to bring it level. You may also find it knocks again in a few days, it will just need re tightening.

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