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Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:44 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011 Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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A good coolant flush is always good to improve efficiency but you're wise to not attempt it if you're not feeling confident as it's easy to induce air locks and make the system worse
I think I'd do a system bleed first as that's quite straightforward and needs no special tools ( I think there's a "How to" on the site) as it may just be a simple air lock somewhere.
For a bad water pump then you'd have bad circulation so symptoms might be engine overheating and importantly, not cooling again, poor heater response etc
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Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:54 am |
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Joined: Jul 09, 2012 Posts: 35
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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The cambelt has never been changed I dont think. Im the car's second owner after an elderly women owned it from new.
It had done 44000 miles when i bought it and its done 51000 miles now so I was going to get around to changing cambelt and water pump in the next year or so.
I dont appear to be getting poor heater response and the engine hasn't actually overheated as of yet, just increased in temperature a few times as described and it always comes back down.
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Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:59 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011 Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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You are well overdue on a cambelt change if that's a 1999 original belt. Don't delay with that, get it done now as it will totally wreck the engine if it fails
"When should I change the timing belt?"
At least a week before it breaks
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Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 8:00 am |
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Joined: Jul 09, 2012 Posts: 35
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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Ok, how much generally for a cambelt change as well then?
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Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 8:04 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011 Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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You'd have to ring around on that one but it's wise to have water pump changed as well whilst they are in there so ask for a quote for both. They'll also need to replenish coolant and antifreeze etc to do the pump
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Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 3:02 pm |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010 Posts: 4266
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Palestine
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Well from what I read in your thread,I believe that your car has no problem at all,it's working perfectly normal,as the temp in petrol engines should be on 90 sharp all the times,but when we have load,or hot weather,the temp well go up as in your car,about 95-98oC,and then the low speed fan kicks and get the temp back to 90oC,which is the normal temp,so don't worry,as there is nothing to worry about ,everything is fine and working well as it should be.
But if you need help in changing the coolant,i will be glad to guide you through,and show you what to do exactlly,i think we need a "How to" for this job soon.
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Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 6:24 pm |
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Joined: Jul 09, 2012 Posts: 35
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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Timon2210 wrote: |
Well from what I read in your thread,I believe that your car has no problem at all,it's working perfectly normal,as the temp in petrol engines should be on 90 sharp all the times,but when we have load,or hot weather,the temp well go up as in your car,about 95-98oC,and then the low speed fan kicks and get the temp back to 90oC,which is the normal temp,so don't worry,as there is nothing to worry about ,everything is fine and working well as it should be.
But if you need help in changing the coolant,i will be glad to guide you through,and show you what to do exactlly,i think we need a "How to" for this job soon. |
Well that's reassuring I suppose what was worrying me was the fact that normally it was always 90c or under instead of over.
The how to guide sounds very good! defo a very simple step by step guide for beginners as mine isn't the first thread i have seen regarding temperature. Maybe one for replacing the temperature sensor as well?
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Posted: Sun May 12, 2013 6:16 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011 Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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often hits almost 100 when under any sort of load or going up a hill however the temperature does come down slowly after the hill has passed.
It has never done this before and is normally under 90c
I'm sorry but that is not normal for a car in the UK at this time of year in particular with an outside temp of 10 to 15C max. I have 3 Peugeots here and none of them will go anywhere near 100C unless sat stationary on a very hot day. Different in Palestine I would suspect for sure with higher outside temps but not in cool UK
The high speed fan setting should take care of it but your car shouldn't be rising to 100C regularly in these outside temps just because you are going up a hill etc
System flush, new coolant, renewed cambelt and tensioner ( urgent!) and new water pump whilst they're there, I'd replace the thermostat anyway if that's the original in there and your car's cooling system should act like new.
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Posted: Sun May 12, 2013 11:18 am |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011 Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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The top hose test will show you that the thermostat is opening and opening in one go rather than sticking but it won't tell you that it is opening at the right temperature. Thermostats also get "lazy" and can open later than their design temperature so it is not a perfect test.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Sun May 12, 2013 12:08 pm |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011 Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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The top hose test will show you that the thermostat is opening and opening in one go rather than sticking but it won't tell you that it is opening at the right temperature.
Either look at your dash gauge when it opens or if you don't trust that and want to be more accurate then connect up and look at the OBD reported engine temp readings
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Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 3:55 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011 Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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+1 ecu reading. I have proven many top hose tests to be wrong by taking ECU output but you do need the equipment to do that.
However, even an ECU reading needs a correctly functioning temp sensor.
Note that from my experience with petrol 206s your readings for the UK do seem slightly higher than normal.
A cheap infra-red sensor aimed at the thermostat housing can be a good check but even then you can see temperatures swing wildly and rapidly and the the unknowing will think something is wrong.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Tue May 14, 2013 6:11 am |
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Joined: Jul 09, 2012 Posts: 35
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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Good idea with the ECU reading however i believe it will only work with something like peugeot planet as every single Reader we have plugged into the car has failed to work with it.
I think its because its a 1999 model before a proper standard was introduced?
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Posted: Tue May 14, 2013 6:20 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011 Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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steveo1259 wrote: |
Ok, how much generally for a cambelt change as well then? |
Contact Cartoonhead. he's based in M24 and is highly recommended by many members on here.
I have PP so can probably sort something out at the same time as you having the belt done.
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:11 pm |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011 Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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Might be worth a coolant "sniff" test. that checks the coolant for combustion gases and will rule in or out a head gasket starting to fail.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 9:40 am |
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Joined: Jul 09, 2012 Posts: 35
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Manchester
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I took it to the garage and they have done some tests and there is no air getting through the radiator fins so they want to replace the radiator and thermostat. If no air was getting through it would explain the increased temperature at higher revs but not at lower ones...
What do you guys think on this?
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