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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › 206 1.6 GLX 1999 won't start from warm


 
 

206 1.6 GLX 1999 won't start from warm
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NurseyKay
PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 1:17 pm Up
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Hi,

I would be really appreciative of any assistance you can give me to help diagnose a problem with my car.

It is a 206 1.6 GLX (1999) and has only done 58000 miles. I bought it 2 months ago. I am a community nurse without much cash and I need it to run relatively reliably!

The car starts first turn of the key when cold, but the problem lies when I have been to one patient and come back to the car to move on to the next patient - perhaps within an hour and a half of the previous use. The car won't then start. I have had it into a garage but as the car would have sat cold until they were able to look at it, it started fine and nothing showed on their dagnosing computer.

In desperation last week, and when on route to a dying patient, I called the AA. Just as he turned up it started (as it had cooled down I guess) but he kindly still had a look. Another symptom at the time was the engine suddenly revved by itself. The AA man reckoned this and the starting were connected and that the air inlet sensor needed replacing, in fact showed me a get round that mostly works until I got it replaced by moving it down its connection and then back again.

I got this part replaced the same afternoon (£42 for the part only, fitted by the garage in 2 minutes so they didn't charge me for fitting it), no more revving problem! I thought it was all sorted but unfortunately the warm start problem remains.

I would really appreciate any suggestions as to what is wrong. Money is very tight so even if I end up taking it to the garage with a good idea of what is wrong it would be a huge help as their attitude was well it will take hours of labour to diagnose whether its this or that and the car just isn't worth it. I see their point but I need it to start and once it's running it goes great! Until then I will have to lift the bonnet after every patient visit, wiggle the sensor and replace the bonnet to start! Not a great situation!

Thanks in advance,

Kay

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DREWDEN
PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 7:23 pm Up
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Posts: 495
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Location: huddersfield


Common issues causing warm start problems are the 3 following sensors :
Coolant temperature
Crank position
cam position
I had this issue, swapped the sensors in the above order, was only when I installed a new cam position sensor was the problem resolved and it then started fine every single time from then on.
That sensor was thought, I beleive, NOT to be used during the start-up process but it was certainly the one that did it for me.
If I recall, when the problem happened for me, if I unclipped then put the sensor back on it would often clear the problem.

Googled, and found this clip for you.

.

206 2ltr Hdi glx 53 plate
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eddie206
PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 11:41 pm Up
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Peugeot should be able to code read the car and go straight to the fault...not mess on for hours diagnosing...unfortunately the old sexist attitude still exsists as they charge poor defenceless women way over the real costs...
Im sure your neither poor nor defenceless but it doesnt stop the unscrupulous ones trying it on sadly...
The fault is certainly with the sensors but it seems strange that a wiggle of the sensor fixes the fault?allbeit temporarily???i would check the soundness of the wiring to the sensor...first remove the wiring plug from the sensor and make sure the sensor is firmly and soundly fixed in place...then have a good look at the wiring plug and the plugs attachment point on the sensor...if all is well so far clean the plug and socket best you can thenBUY A GOOD CAN OF MOISTURE REPELLANT(NOT WD40)ask for this at car parts shop...then generously drench the wiring plug and the plugs socket to clean and expell moisture ...then plug it back together and if your lucky this may have helped...NOT. WD40 THOUGH..
GOOD LUCK...

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NurseyKay
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 3:25 am Up
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Thanks both for your replies, really appreciated. Sadly I am poor and have had to buy the car after a job where I had a company car Shocked
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V9977
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 3:33 am Up
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As a matter of interest, at what rpm do you shift gear?
You're not flooding it by any chance?

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

Repair safely - Drive safely
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NurseyKay
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 3:56 am Up
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Hi,

I can't say I have ever noticed what RPM I change gear at. What RPM would you suggest I changed gear at? Have been driving for 25 years if that helps - not a boy (girl) racer....

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V9977
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 5:37 am Up
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NurseyKay wrote:
Hi,

I can't say I have ever noticed what RPM I change gear at. What RPM would you suggest I changed gear at? Have been driving for 25 years if that helps - not a boy (girl) racer....

Hi Kay,

So what rpm do you change at very roughly?
Ofcourse, it highly depends on the load to the engine: uphill, level road, gear etc.

But next time you're in there, have a feel for the engine sound at which point you shift naturaly and see what the rev-counter says.

'Not saying you're not a good or experienced driver under any circumstances, but it could be linked to an actual fault.. Also, what was the previous car exactly?

For testing purposes alone, it would be worth trying to conciously shift at a much higher rev range overall and see if that makes any difference to the symptom.

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

Repair safely - Drive safely
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NurseyKay
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 5:46 am Up
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Ok will make a note. My previous cars have been various, Golf TDI, Megane for example, all under two years old.
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eddie206
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 5:48 am Up
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Sorry about the poor saying,i had realised you are on a tight budget thats why i suggest spraying the valves electrical contacts...
A can of moisture repellant spray shouldnt be more than a fiver and by the sounds of things if a wiggle is putting it right the spray/clean might do the trick.

Just out of interest next time it happens open the bonnet and instead of touching the valve dont touch anything just hold the bonnet open for twenty seconds then close it like normal and start her up(if she will)...this is just to test if the bonnet open/close canceller is affecting anything...LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS..

And of course if this doesnt help just lift it and wiggle like normal to get yourself going...

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V9977
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 5:54 am Up
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NurseyKay wrote:
Ok will make a note. My previous cars have been various, Golf TDI, Megane for example, all under two years old.

The pug will be alot more sensitive to labouring the engine, try later shifting and generaly keeping the revs higher to see IF that affects it come hot start-up time.

A good poke on the motorway will aslo help it clear it's throat. Smile

All this might sound irelevant, but it's free so..

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

Repair safely - Drive safely
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V9977
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 6:01 am Up
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eddie206 wrote:
Peugeot should be able to code read the car and go straight to the fault...not mess on for hours diagnosing...unfortunately the old sexist attitude still exsists as they charge poor defenceless women way over the real costs...
Im sure your neither poor nor defenceless but it doesnt stop the unscrupulous ones trying it on sadly...
The fault is certainly with the sensors but it seems strange that a wiggle of the sensor fixes the fault?allbeit temporarily???i would check the soundness of the wiring to the sensor...first remove the wiring plug from the sensor and make sure the sensor is firmly and soundly fixed in place...then have a good look at the wiring plug and the plugs attachment point on the sensor...if all is well so far clean the plug and socket best you can thenBUY A GOOD CAN OF MOISTURE REPELLANT(NOT WD40)ask for this at car parts shop...then generously drench the wiring plug and the plugs socket to clean and expell moisture ...then plug it back together and if your lucky this may have helped...NOT. WD40 THOUGH..
GOOD LUCK...

WTF?

1.4i, 2001, 3-door, China Blue

Repair safely - Drive safely
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NurseyKay
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 6:04 am Up
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V9977 wrote:
NurseyKay wrote:
Ok will make a note. My previous cars have been various, Golf TDI, Megane for example, all under two years old.

The pug will be alot more sensitive to labouring the engine, try later shifting and generaly keeping the revs higher to see IF that affects it come hot start-up time.

A good poke on the motorway will aslo help it clear it's throat. Smile

All this might sound irelevant, but it's free so..

All advice gratefully received! I do a fair amount of dual carriageway driving so it gets a clearout fairly often, and testing it yesterday morning was a drive to the nearest village and back - about 2 miles and it wouldn't start on my return. The other thing we noticed that may help was an amount of clicking coming from the same part of the engine as the sensor when it wouldn't start..... don't know if that is any help at all???

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MrBSI
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 6:06 am Up
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NurseyKay wrote:
The other thing we noticed that may help was an amount of clicking coming from the same part of the engine as the sensor when it wouldn't start..... don't know if that is any help at all???

Was this anywhere near the engine ecu?

Roughly in the area where you fill the screenwash up.

Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs.
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NurseyKay
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 6:08 am Up
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eddie206 wrote:
Sorry about the poor saying,i had realised you are on a tight budget thats why i suggest spraying the valves electrical contacts...
A can of moisture repellant spray shouldnt be more than a fiver and by the sounds of things if a wiggle is putting it right the spray/clean might do the trick.

Just out of interest next time it happens open the bonnet and instead of touching the valve dont touch anything just hold the bonnet open for twenty seconds then close it like normal and start her up(if she will)...this is just to test if the bonnet open/close canceller is affecting anything...LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS..

And of course if this doesnt help just lift it and wiggle like normal to get yourself going...

Hi, I can say that hasn't worked as it seems to depend on how I wiggle it, which obviously has to be done with the bonnet open Wink

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NurseyKay
PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 6:10 am Up
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MrBSI wrote:
NurseyKay wrote:
The other thing we noticed that may help was an amount of clicking coming from the same part of the engine as the sensor when it wouldn't start..... don't know if that is any help at all???

Was this anywhere near the engine ecu?

Roughly in the area where you fill the screenwash up.

my washer bottle (yes I do fill it up lol) is to the left, this was more towards middle and up from there, about 5 inches from where I wiggle the sensor connector.

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