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 Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 3:01 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
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Hi,
I have a 2001 206 1.4 Auto (KFW) that has a particular problem when I start the car (sometimes does't matter if the engine is warm or not).
The car starts fine, but when I put it in Drive (or Reverse) the car "chugs" really slowly and the car is bumpy, like chug... chug... chug... chug.
This happens until there is a loud click (I think, now don't take my word on this, the loud mechanical click is from the front right of the car when facing the road).
When the loud click happens, the car starts to progressively become normal (and driveable) again, e.g. ... chug... CLICK!.... chug.... chug... chug.... chug..... chug... chug.. chug... chug..chug..chug.chug.brr... brrr...brrrrrr .... brmmmmm.
I hope that ^^ helps describe it better than a more ambiguous wall of text.
Trying to drive the car whilst it is slow chugging will just mean that there is absolutely no power, and it feels a little jolty.
It almost feels as though the car is being strangled of either air or petrol. The loud click can occur at any time, and when I am driving the problem doesn't return until I turn the engine off.
Like at a garage, I can only be out of the car for 5 minutes filling up, when the engine is still warm, and then when I get in the car to pull off I sometimes have to wait for the loud click before the car is able to be driven properly again.
I am sure one of you fine engineers can diagnose this for me? It has got to be one of the valves sticking, I am thinking, because of noticeable difference in performance and the metallic loud click that happens. I am not a mechanic, and never will/have been. But I am more than capable of replacing the odd part or two.
Oh, btw, PP2000 doesn't report a fault.
Thanks,
SR
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Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 3:39 am |
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Joined: Oct 12, 2012
Posts: 204
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Norwich, United Kingdom
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Kind of sounds like the gearbox is struggling to get into gear or the right mode, beings you say it's a little while in order to drive the car properly.
How many miles has the car done?
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| I have Peugeot Planet/DiagBox.
Previous Car: Peugeot 206 1.4
Now: Peugeot 207 1.6 VTi 120 Sport | |
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Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:13 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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Do you have aircon and is it turned on when you are experiencing the problems? The compressor clutch is on the front rh side of the car and makes a loud "clack" sound when engaging. It wouldn't normally affect engine running but the pressure stat operating it will if it has something wrong with it
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Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 1:02 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
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| Hawkers wrote: |
| Kind of sounds like the gearbox is struggling to get into gear or the right mode |
Not sure about that. I can change from 1st to R no problem, just don't have a clean amount of power with the car struggling. The gear change is clear and noticeable, and there are no further gearbox changes when the car clicks and lets me drive properly.
| Deckchair5 wrote: |
| Do you have aircon and is it turned on when you are experiencing the problems? |
This is affirmative. I will try and see if the problem continues without the aircon turned on when I start the car today.
Thanks,
SR
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Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:31 am |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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Ok if you haven't got a multimeter then the next test might be to disconnect the aircon pressure switch connector. It'll fire up a fault code but if the engine runs sweetly after that then you know where your troubles lie. It may not need a new pressure switch, they're quite expensive, I'd have that part of the circuit investigated first and see what's happening to the supply voltage and earth there
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Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:10 pm |
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Joined: Jan 15, 2013
Posts: 244
Trade Rating: 0
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Any improvements mate???whats the battery like?
Are the fans cutting in when they should once its running and warm??
The click sounds like a relay or a solenoid...check the fuses mate if the a/c doesnt fix it..
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Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 2:04 am |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
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I tried starting the car without the aircon on and I was able to pull away straight away and the car drove nice. I don't think my cooling fan runs. How odd. I also notice that after about 30 minutes of driving, the stop light, and two other red lights, flash rapidly in rythm with the engine. When I press my foot on the accelerator, it goes away, and same when I am driving. It just happens when I am at a standstill.
I wonder if they are all linked in some way.
So it would appear I have a few problems:
- Cooling fan not working (either at low or high speed)
- Flashy lights in dash when car is getting hot
- Car having problems when starting engine if aircon turned on
The battery is brand new, because my alternator failed about 12 months ago. I had this all replaced, and it has been ok.
Does the three symptoms above all relate with each other do you think?
I will check the fuses, and see if I can find out why my fan is not working.
Thanks,
SR
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Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 5:38 am |
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Joined: Jan 15, 2013
Posts: 244
Trade Rating: 0
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The new battery will be under guarantee so go and swap it because its a dud i would say..but your alternator might be knackered too???also it sounds like a bsi reboot might be usefull..the instructions for the bsi reboit are in the HOW TO guide section of this site...
One thing to try is to put your headlites on and get someone to turn the car over/start the car..if the headlites dim down and almost go out its your battery and possibly alternator too...take it back to whoever"fixed"?it in the first place...
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Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:46 pm |
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Joined: Oct 05, 2012
Posts: 23
Trade Rating: 0
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I had the battery and alternator tested today and they were fine. I would reallly like to do a BSI reboot, but I have lost my central locking car key. Is there a way the reboot can be done without the central locking key?
I appreciate all of the comments!
Thanks,
SR
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Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:12 pm |
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Joined: Jan 15, 2013
Posts: 244
Trade Rating: 0
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You dont need the central locking key..as long as you have the doors and windows open and the ignition key in the ignition thats enuf...your on about the ten seconds pressing on the key....thats more either to identify the key or when your doing a battery reset..
Im sure i did my last reboot without the ten seconds on the key buisness because mines imploded..i could be wrong but if you follow the steps without the ten secs it should still be ok.
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Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 2:09 pm |
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Joined: Aug 01, 2011
Posts: 390
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Bath UK
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You have quite a complicated electrical fault and you may well need a good auto electrician to sort it out for you
But anyway, it sound's like you have an ignition on, low resistance short circuit to earth on the supply voltage which is dragging the supply voltage down
If you have a multi meter and measure voltage across the battery with engine running then you'd probably see the voltage plummeting below 12v when the engine is at idle as alternator and battery struggle to maintain 12v but when engine is above idle the alternator is able to sustain a reasonable voltage and problems subside. As the battery isn't going flat then the short is only happening with ignition on and this is likely to be a power relay at fault
Which ones? As you suspect problems with the cooling fans then it may be one of those up front as they do have a bad time weather wise. Another favorite is the rear wiper relay in the rear hatch if you have one as this can suffer water and damp ingestion and surface rust across the relay contacts produces a short
There may be nothing wrong with your alternator or battery as niether of them stand a chance if they are suffering significant current drain with engine on. Someone testing the battery with engine off might not see a problem as the battery is then charged, equally if they test the alternator voltage with engine at high rpm then they may not see a problem there either
QUICK TEST
If you monitor voltage across the battery with engine at idle and no load then you'd want to see 14v+ and then with an electrical load of headlights and HRS then it must hold above 12v. Check it when you are experiencing your red lights showing problems. If you hear your alternator groaning then you know it's needing to work hard
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Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 3:07 am |
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Joined: May 10, 2011
Posts: 2
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Somewhere in North Wales
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Symptoms sound a little similar to a problem I had earlier this year, see this thread from 206CC forum www.peugeot206cc.co.uk...3&t=14190.
it was Electrical based, but dont know how it would fit with your vehicle.
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| An old fart in yet another mid-life crisis car | |
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