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 Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 3:17 pm |
 
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 869
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Milton Keynes
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Hi,
I've looked about on the forum and can't find a how to for bleeding the brakes at all.
Can anyone tell me how its done at all, my brake pedals quite spongey, pads and discs looks fine to me, so think there's air in the system?
Thanks
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Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 3:45 pm |
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Joined: Jun 24, 2012
Posts: 305
Trade Rating: +1
Location: nottingham
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the normal way is to start bleeding the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder then work round.
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Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 3:46 pm |
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Joined: Jan 01, 2014
Posts: 131
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Bradford, UK
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If there is air in the system id be looking to find the cause as it should be a sealed system. Look for any small fluid leaks, usually found on perished rubber hoses. I'd definitely recommend a gunsons eezi bleed to bleed the brakes. Makes the whole operation much easier, it attaches to the brake reservoir, and the spare wheel for pressure, then it's a simple case of cracking each bleed nipple (found on the calliper) in turn, starting with the furthest wheel from the reservoir until clean bubble free fluid emerges. Has your brake fluid been changed recently? as it's far more likely to be moisture in the fluid if not.
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Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 4:17 pm |
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 869
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Milton Keynes
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The brake fluid hasn't ever been changed, well I haven't done it since I've had it.
The pedals just soft and brakes grind ever so slightly at slow speeds.
I think i'll need more of a step by step guide as I have no idea where to start or what I'll need etc?
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Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 4:39 pm |
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Joined: Feb 25, 2013
Posts: 317
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Scotland
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This would be a helpful guide.
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Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 12:46 am |
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Joined: Jan 01, 2014
Posts: 131
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Bradford, UK
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If I get time I'll try and knock a how to with a couple of pics up over the weekend. It's not a difficult job at all and there's a few different methods of actually doing it. It's a pretty generic procedure though so maybe try googling "how to bleed brakes". I'd definitely consider new fluid as old fluid absorbs moisture and over time will present symptoms like you describe.
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Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 5:54 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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Have a read of this thread and it might give you a few pointers as to the equipment needed.
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Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:25 am |
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Joined: Nov 25, 2013
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Southern Finland
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I bleeded the brake system on a RC (GTI180) which was completely drained from brake fluid (because of ABS/ESP unit replacement) using a brake bleeder which creates vacuum on the bleed nipple and it went fine. After the first round around the car there was a little amount of air left and after a second try it was all gone.
So I say PP2000 isn't necessary. Although I have one but didn't have my computer with me at that time 
It takes a little more work and a little more brake fluid but it is possible.
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| 306 S16, 306 GTI-6, 605 SV24, 205 GTI-6, 2x405 Mi16, VW T3 1.9TD/AAZ, Audi TT mk2 3.2 quattro, Audi A6 2.7 biturbo quattro | |
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Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 9:56 am |
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Joined: Jan 01, 2014
Posts: 131
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Bradford, UK
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My bad , i wasn't aware the software was needed. I'd still say with a gunsons eezi bleed it would be possible without though. They pressurise the system forcing any air out. I can honestly say its worked every time for me on many other cars (with and without abs) and was well worth the £16 investment
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Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 10:57 am |
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Joined: Nov 25, 2013
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Southern Finland
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Just to add to my last reply, I did take the car for a spin between the attempts to bleed the brakes. If there was some air trapped to the ABS unit at first, it probably moved towards the calipers while driving because after the second try they were perfect..
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| 306 S16, 306 GTI-6, 605 SV24, 205 GTI-6, 2x405 Mi16, VW T3 1.9TD/AAZ, Audi TT mk2 3.2 quattro, Audi A6 2.7 biturbo quattro | |
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Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 11:16 am |
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Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Posts: 4266
Trade Rating: +4
Location: Palestine
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It's better to have the PP2000 ,as it will make this job easier,and it tells you which wheel to bleed,and that prevent any damage to the ABS pump :),this is actually a 2 ppl job,if you don't anything to pressure the system.
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Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 4:51 pm |
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Joined: Nov 25, 2013
Posts: 50
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Southern Finland
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Yeah, I have PP2000, but didn't have it with me at the time I was bleeding the brakes. And I was doing it by myself with a vacuum brake bleeder.
I once checked that bleeding routine on PP2000.. it takes forever to get through and you can't back up from it once it's started.
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| 306 S16, 306 GTI-6, 605 SV24, 205 GTI-6, 2x405 Mi16, VW T3 1.9TD/AAZ, Audi TT mk2 3.2 quattro, Audi A6 2.7 biturbo quattro | |
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Posted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 10:47 am |
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 869
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Milton Keynes
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Guys, I'm not sure where to start... my brakes are just not as responsive as they were a few weeks ago, pedal has to pushed further and harder.
To me the pads look OK (the rears a lot more worn that the fronts) through the wheel but I'm no mechanic, what can I try, shall i just change them to rule them out of a possible cause?
Any help appreciated
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Posted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 11:23 am |
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Joined: Jan 01, 2014
Posts: 131
Trade Rating: +1
Location: Bradford, UK
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If your saying there's a bit of meat left on the pads, personally I'd start with a fluid change, maybe take it to your local garage if your not confident doing it yourself, a competent mechanic should do it in half an hour so it shouldn't be expensive. Is there any groves in your discs? This can often be a tell tale sign your pads are shot.
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Posted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 12:05 pm |
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Joined: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 869
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Milton Keynes
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Okay thanks mate
I'd like to fix it myself really, I just have a hard time deciding what things to check/change first.
When I rub my fingers over the rear discs they don't feel smooth like the fronts do. It's like a very slight bumpy/rough texture. Does that mean they need replacing?
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