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 Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 3:59 pm |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
Trade Rating: 0
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Evening guys and girls,
Girlfriend bought a 206 1.1 LX on Sunday, and all seemed fine upon test drives, etc
We knew we'd need to get her at least 2 new tyres, no problem
She took the car to work, and when parking she felt crunching. This was when full lock or near full lock pulling away slowly.
Took it for a free check with a garage owner (who's also a family friend, conveniently)
O/S/R brake binding (both o/s wheels do not spin freely when in the air)
This is the major concern as its the one I have no knowledge of.
She needs new tyres, and new pads/discs. Which are no problem for me to sort out.
Brakes binding - bit of a search and a common issue, and hopefully the fix for our issue is the same as the one I read.
The white brake light switch/wire - located under the dash.
Apparently, first thing to try is taking the connection out and pu back in to make sure it's in the correct amount, etc.
As this uses the same bit as the actual brake pedal too.
So any ideas how exactly this fix is tried, as I can see A LOT of wires under the dash, and more than 1 being white...
Also any other suggestions on what it could be?
Thanks in advance!
Ben
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Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 6:09 pm |
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Joined: Jan 18, 2014
Posts: 12
Trade Rating: 0
Location: West Lancashire
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 2:57 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
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Brilliant - that's made that a bit clearer. Thank you!
Will take a look ASAP.
Does anyone know other potential reasons for brake(s) binding?
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:13 am |
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Joined: Nov 09, 2011
Posts: 328
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Lower Slaughter
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dodgy calipers are always a popular one
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| 2003 206 1.4 HDi (3 Door) LX - Cypress Green - KQM
2003 206 SW 2.0 HDI Grey | |
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:55 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
Trade Rating: 0
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| commandosqueak wrote: |
| dodgy calipers are always a popular one |
Thanks for the reply,
Is there a way to check if they are doing their job or anything?
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 7:12 am |
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Joined: Nov 09, 2011
Posts: 328
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Lower Slaughter
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go for a good run and use the brakes, if the caliper is hotter than the other side its binding. solution is new caliper or refurb kit. but that depends on how mechanically minded you are
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| 2003 206 1.4 HDi (3 Door) LX - Cypress Green - KQM
2003 206 SW 2.0 HDI Grey | |
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 7:22 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
Trade Rating: 0
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| commandosqueak wrote: |
| go for a good run and use the brakes, if the caliper is hotter than the other side its binding. solution is new caliper or refurb kit. but that depends on how mechanically minded you are |
Well I know the brake is binding. When jacked up both o/s wheels do not spin when pushed.
I will take for a drive and use brakes, and feel them to compare each side.
I try to do as much work as I can to my own car (not the 206) so hopefully with a few pointers that'd be a DIY job. I've had the front brakes off and replace discs and pads on a 1.1 saxo (so I assume probably a similar setup)
Thanks again
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Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:56 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
Trade Rating: 0
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Issue has got worse.
O/S Front Brake/Wheel is ruled out as an issue
it's only the O/S Rear brake (drum)
Now when we try to pull away the o/s/r wheel just doesn't move. If I make the car move the wheel skids along.
I have had wheel off, and brake cleanered it, and sanded some rusted bits. More brake cleaner, left it for a while. Checked it, still stuck for good. I have hit it with a soft hammer (quite gently as I would rather not make another issue).. No change.
What can I do? 
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Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:39 am |
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Joined: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 6526
Trade Rating: +10
Location: Westhoughton, Lancashire
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| silvertwo-oh-six wrote: |
it's only the O/S Rear brake (drum)
Now when we try to pull away the o/s/r wheel just doesn't move. If I make the car move the wheel skids along.
I have had wheel off, and brake cleanered it, and sanded some rusted bits. More brake cleaner, left it for a while. Checked it, still stuck for good. I have hit it with a soft hammer (quite gently as I would rather not make another issue).. No change. |
How did you clean the brakes if the drum is seized?
Try a lump hammer, the drum can take it.
A common problem on the drums is the friction material coming away from the shoe and jamming against the drum. Usually either rocking the car in forward or reverse gears frees it, but with a clunk. Then you can get the drum off and replace the shoes, lube up or replace the auto adjuster and it's sorted.
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Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:52 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
Trade Rating: 0
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So the clunk that happened when I reversed is not too much of a bad thing?
I basically just cleaned what I could of all of it.
I dont have drums on my own car so have never looked at them
I will try lump hammer and the swaying now.. thanks! !
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Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 4:27 am |
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Joined: Aug 04, 2011
Posts: 1343
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Swindon
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It could be handbrake cable seized on one side. Not common on a 206 but does happen.
It could be the auto adjustment mechanism, retaining clips or spring holding the shoes in place have broken or dislodged.
As above it could be the brake material has separated from the backing.
You might have to use a lot of brute force to get the drum off as the drum probably has quite a ridge on the inside edge that won't clear the shoes.
It might be worth fully releasing the handbrake cable at he handbrake lever adjusting point. it wouldn't be the first time a handbrake was over tightened at this point.
The self adjusting mechanism inside the drum is complex if you haven't seen it before so buy a Haynes manual. Not perfect but helpful for jobs like this.
If you are removing the drums you will need new staked nuts and a torque spanner for refitting.
Behind the drum are a washer and seal - make sure you note the order and orientation these are fitted in. It is easy to get that wrong.
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| Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic? | |
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Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 4:17 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
Trade Rating: 0
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Thanks for a replies!
We now park the 206 in gear, with handbrake off. This has stopped the back brake seizing now.. obviously not a perfect scenario but its getting us out of trouble for a while.
The car seller bought us new brake shoes to say sorry to hear an issue occurred already.. ha!
Another issue: think I know the answer but..
When steering on full lock, so parking mainly.. the wheels sound like they are crunching.
I've done some searching and sounds like it could be the CV joint. How can I check? Am I looking for a leak or loose bits?
How much would a garage look to charge to replace 1 or both CV joints?
And how easy is it for DIY
Thanks again
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Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:12 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 3085
Trade Rating: +12
Location: Essex
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CV joint it is..... get someone to listen to each side of the car as you turn tight each way. The suspect joint will show itself. Not the easiest of jobs if you are not very clued up on them. I suggest you get a garage to change the bad one. Should be about an hours labour
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Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:18 am |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
Trade Rating: 0
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Cheers bud, will call for some quotes!
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 2:33 pm |
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Joined: Jan 22, 2014
Posts: 13
Trade Rating: 0
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The brake has been ok since we started parking without handbrake on.
Went to drive it yesterday and it was seized but unseized fairly easily to unseize.. but now it grinds.
Forward and reverse.
Has the shoe worn that much?
Or has it partially unseized?
Thanks
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