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Forums › The Car › Solved 206 Problems › 206 1.4 verve 2003 WONT START. ....SOLVED ......


 
 

206 1.4 verve 2003 WONT START. ....SOLVED ......
Forum IndexSolved 206 Problems
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Sproggy
PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:58 pm Up
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MrBSI wrote:
Sproggy wrote:

Am i right in thinking if the key remote opens the door and turns the engine over , its nothing to do with that side of things.i.e everything matches so it not the immobiliser for example , thats stopping it from starting.
Brian

It will turn over all day long until either the battery goes flat OR you burn the starter motor out.

The immobiliser on a 206 doesn't stop the starter motor from turning, it's a software lock on the engine ecu.

Mmmmmmm does that mean that it can be that he engine will turn over but not start , due to a ecu lock ( i think thats what your saying mr bsi ) . If so how am i to cure that problem .
Brian

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 2:04 pm Up
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Armed with the brother in laws compression tester i quickly discover 2 things
1) the petrol pump is working strong as it pumps petrol all over the engine when i crank for compression
2) there's no compression on cylinders 1and2
A third thing is that you cannot take the head off alone in 4 hours ,( beaten by daylight ). Also as thought above the cam belt is slipping on the gears so ive no idea how many valves i will need till i finish getting the head off
I now need a list of what to buy to rebuild -
Valves
Injector o ring seals
Head gasket
2belts
?????

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 2:06 pm Up
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kandlbarrett wrote:


Do the compression test first though as cars with very low compression will still fire with easy start.
Thanks for the tip kandlbarrett

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Addaz
PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 3:09 pm Up
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How the flying hell did you not here it had no compression when you turned it over?!

Its a blantly obvious sound, all you hear is weazing and no good combustion

And yes you can take the head off in four hours, thats the book time Smile Pretty easy job, personally though i would just replace the cylinder head. Cheaper and easier

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 3:30 pm Up
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Addaz wrote:
How the flying hell did you not here it had no compression when you turned it over?!

Its a blantly obvious sound, all you hear is weazing and no good combustion

And yes you can take the head off in four hours, thats the book time Smile Pretty easy job, personally though i would just replace the cylinder head. Cheaper and easier
Hi im not a mechanic, just a cack handed amateur doing the best i can with advice from very friendly people on here , no garage for the car working alone on my drive with a miss mash of tools
Sometimes the obvious isnt obvious untill its obvious and that what happened here to me , now i know what it is ,,,,, its obvious . Hopefully all will be fine in a few days , hopefully gsf will be open on bank holiday monday for me to get parts, i am working at it between my regular job so time is limited .

Just learnt i will probably also best buy a new water pump whilst its so dismantled
Cheers all for the advise and interest

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 6:00 am Up
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I now have the head off. It would appear that the head gasket has blown , on closer questioning of my daughter she tells me she has been topping up the water alot over recent months ........ Why didnt she tell me earlier.

I flooded the valve area of the head with petrol , port one leaked through very slowly , port two leaked out quite quickly , however ports three and four were fine
I have taken the valves out and i cannot see any bend in them , i have rolled them on a glass panel and they appear fine , which puzzles me somewhat

There are no contact marks on any of the cylinder heads

Could i be lucky and gat away with just re grinding and re seat the valves ?

I am gonna have the head skimmed , taking it to drakes in bradfors but they appear closed today as no answer to the phone .

I will ask them to look at the valves as they are the expert


In relation to the timing holes , can anyone tell me the position that the pistons should be in when the pin is placed in the timing hole

As it appeared the timing belt had been slipping i didnt put a pin in the hole to dismantle the engine ,
I have researched this but so far only found where to put the pin in when taking the head off , but as this wasnt done as mentioned above , i would like to know where the poistons should be
For example should piston 1 be tdc , or otherwise .
Thanks


Last edited by Sproggy on Mon May 05, 2014 10:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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MrBSI
PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 6:24 am Up
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FYI: Being a Peugeot remember that cylinder number 1 is at the GEARBOX end of the engine Wink
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Sproggy
PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 6:27 am Up
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MrBSI wrote:
FYI: Being a Peugeot remember that cylinder number 1 is at the GEARBOX end of the engine Wink

Thanks for that , i had no idea of that ,

i ask re the piston position because i read somewhere that there are 2 holes in the crank , i don't want to choose the wrong one if thats possible

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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 6:50 am Up
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Sounds like valve regrind will suffice.

If any doubt at all and you can afford it a 2 new new valves won't break the bank though. New valves are much cheaper than doing it again in a few weeks or months or worse a valve breaking!

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Sproggy
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 9:46 am Up
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I took the head and valves into Drakes this morning in Bradford
They are gonna look if any valves are bent . And re seat them. I have also asked them to skim the head as it was in a sorry state . For what it costs I may as well have it done . It will be ready before Friday
I noted last night that the plastic inlet manifold has melted around the mounting holes and I've lost a little brass strengthening insert so I am on the lookout for another manifold ,

I still had no answer re the piston positioning for the timing

Brian

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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 4:30 pm Up
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Haynes manual?
Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic?
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Sproggy
PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 2:42 am Up
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I have the Haynes manual , however , as it covers quite a few derivatives, its not clear on the issue . and its important to get it right or I am back to square one with compression ... probably
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Sproggy
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2014 4:21 pm Up
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i have to report a success story

i have spent some time and money on the car , armed with advice from the good people on here i can now report a successful outcome

in summary

i checked all the electrical things that i could , tried master resets , fuses relays etc without any success , bought new coil pack and bosch spark plugs also relays for the cooling fan that ere located in the little box behind the radiator grill . all to no success

the advise to check the compression was the turning point as i discovered no compression on ports 1 and 2 ( i now know to be 3 and four as its a Peugeot) i got a rollicking from addaz for not realizing i had no compression but i got over it

i spent the next day stripping down the head and taking it to drakes who as in the past have given excellent service i got

head skimming
1 new inlet valve
all valves re cut and seated
full gasket set
new head bolts
this cost me £116 pounds

whilst i was at it i also got a new timing belt kit
auxiliary belt
water pump
2 oil filters (i drained the old oil and used various odd bits of oil and added some Wynne flushing solution )
a gallon of fully synthetic oil

i also went to a local scrap yard to get a inlet manifold and a fuel bar as mine had melted near mounting points due to the heat , i also picked up other little bits and pieces for a total of £30 - bargain

with 4 days off work i set about- slowly and steadily - rebuilding things back up , working alone it took a full day and three quarter of the next day to complete the rebuild including completing the rebuild of trims that i had previously removed
i will add that i took it really slow and steady , no rush at all as i had plenty of time

set the tappets

i put the key in the ignition ,not expecting it to start as i had a nasty gut feeling that the ecu was also faulty s a part of my problems

turned the key ---- on first turn i got the shock of my life as the engine almost started , spluttering and coughing bit not quite jumping into life , however after a few goes ,,,,, success it started , running very rough but it started.

i turned it of , for some reason and started again and it runs as sweet as a nut , like a dream .

conscious the oil wouldn't be much good i drained it, changed the filter and put in various bits i had around the garage , got it to temperature then added some Wynne flushing additive , then drained , changed filter and filled up with fully synthetic

its running perfect now , starts first time every time

i haven't fully worked the cost but i recon its close to 400 pounds , that's probably a little less than the car is worth , but i have had it from new and know its history so money well spent in my view .probably didn't need the coil pack but it appears from advice on here that as its 10 years old its due to fail any time now

so that how i solved the problem of my car that wouldn't start

i hope my experience as recorded above helps other members of the forum , as much as forum members have assisted me

i have taken a few photographs of things as i went along

i haven't yet fully added up the cost but i do have the receipts , if any one wants to know the full exact cost let me know and i will post it up on here

Further to the above , i also changed the thermostat, i bought one of those cheap lazer temperature readers , think it was about 15 pounds a few months back , i tested the originL thermostat in a pan of water , it only opened at
104 c , the new one stamped 86c opened smack on 86c , could this have been the cause of the original problem .... Perhaps i will never know
Brian

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kandlbarrett
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 2:03 pm Up
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Thermostat opening at that temp will almost certainly be root cause of the head gasket failure.

106 at the stat will be far in excess of that around valves etc.

Well done that is a great success story for a relatuive novice. Far more experienced mechanics have completely messed up head work and valve timing on these.

Give yourself a firm pat on the back, have a pint or two and put your feet up.Then, this weekend give the car the clean and polish it deserves.

Morris 1000, Austin 1100, Escort Mk2, Fiat Mirafiori, Alfa 33, Alfa GT Junior, Alfasud, Alfetta GTV (2x), Alfa 164 3.0 V6, Alfa 164 2.0, Alfa 75 V6, Alfa 156 2.4 (diesel remapped 200bhp), Alfa 147 GTA (3.6 295bhp), Alfa 159 (diesel remapped 245bhp 300ft.lbs @ 2500rpm)
Why isn't my daughter an Alfaholic?
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Sproggy
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 4:46 am Up
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kandlbarrett wrote:

Give yourself a firm pat on the back, have a pint or two and put your feet up.Then, this weekend give the car the clean and polish it deserves.


Thanks for that
I did indeed have a few bottles of Brew Dog special ales

pleased to say car still running fine ,

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