|
Author
|
Message |
|
|
 Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 4:29 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 28, 2014
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Ipswich
|
 |
Evening all,
New here and have a 206 2.0 HDi with an intermittent starting problem. Its a 2002 multiplexed one.
Firstly the battery was knackered causing all sorts of odd issues, but it wouldn't hold charge at all so has been replaced with a good one. This solved a lot of the odd issues but the non starting remained.
I've owned several Pugs so have PP2k which showed several faults, but after clearing them none returned!
Anyway, the reason for the none starting now was the lift pump wasn't priming at all...I checked as many fuses as I could find and all were good. Also looked for the brown relay which apparently doesn't exist on the 206 lol! And after some more fiddling randomly the pump started priming...no idea what I did though! It then fired up straight away. I switched it off, and then let it prime and start perfectly a second time.....left it running for a good half hour, idles without issue. Drove it a short distance (cant go far due to no MOT/tax yet) and it drives perfectly as well.
Parked on the drive and switched it off to adjust the handbrake..... Went to start it again after and it wouldn't prime again!  So I shut the rear door with a bit of force, hoping to 'nudge' the pump, and it primed straight away then and started and ran perfect as before.
It does seem to take ages to prime, and creates a constant whine from the pump while engines running (from pump itself, not from the filter housing).
Does this sound like the pump is failing, or is it just a coincidence that it primed after a nudge lol?
If not likely to be the pump, any more ideas why it wont prime intermittently?
Cheers
Tom
| |  |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 4:59 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 20, 2012
Posts: 460
Trade Rating: +3
Location: Shrewsbury
|
|
Okay, i had this problem on mine,
In the engine bay there's a fuse board.
take off the cap and make sure everything is tight?
This was my problem. as my lift pump was intermittent:
LINK HAS THE PICTURE:
1.bp.blogspot.com/_-Ef...t0003b.jpg
See the black green and grey blocks that go on to the board, you need to gently take them off and check inside the connectors, Mine were burnt Out inside, Not sure what from but my guess was condensation. So i went to the scrappy got a new Block and carefully rewired it,
Its a slow boring job and you need to be careful as there red slider will break very easy, You need to do it wire for wire to.
the one you take out make sure you put him in the hole he come out of straight away.
That way you cant go wrong.
Next time it wont start. go give them blocks a wiggle see what happens.
Hope this helps :]
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 5:22 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 28, 2014
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Ipswich
|
|
Thanks Pez, I had been fiddling with those plugs, didn't actually remove them, just gave them a poke to check they were in tight lol! Will unplug and check them for damage tomorrow.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 5:27 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 20, 2012
Posts: 460
Trade Rating: +3
Location: Shrewsbury
|
|
Sorry i cant show you my pictures. I must have deleted them off my laptop,
Electrical contact clean works well. :]
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 8:47 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 08, 2010
Posts: 1035
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North Manchester
|
|
if you find / suspect the sender unit pump is faulty DO NOT buy the complete new sender unit for £100 
you can buy just the pump it's self for only £18.90 at EUROPARTS and once the sender is removed from the tank its just a case of undoing a few clips on the sender unit to replace it 
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 11:20 am |
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 28, 2014
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Ipswich
|
|
Well, found just one burnt contact. Middle plug, 3rd wire back (red one). No idea what that's for though....but hopefully the fuel pump!?
I tried cleaning it with a small brush and contact but haven't really made much difference tbh. Will have to see if it fails to prime again I guess!
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 12:56 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 16, 2011
Posts: 495
Trade Rating: +1
Location: huddersfield
|
|
|
|
|
 | |  |
| 206 2ltr Hdi glx 53 plate | |
 | |  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 1:40 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 28, 2014
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Ipswich
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 2:11 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 16, 2011
Posts: 495
Trade Rating: +1
Location: huddersfield
|
|
Very interesting, i had the identical problem as yourself a few years back (intermitent priming pump), an auto elec cut one of the wires before the male connector and fed it inside the bsi, to bypass the female end, always wondered why.
Seen a few threads with this problem, but none with any conclusion, wonder why the pump is overloading the curcuit.
Thanks for info.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| 206 2ltr Hdi glx 53 plate | |
| | |
Last edited by DREWDEN on Thu May 29, 2014 2:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 2:28 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 28, 2014
Posts: 27
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Ipswich
|
|
I think bypassing it completely may be the best option, not sure I want to try it myself though, not sure how much an auto-spark would charge to do it?
What's odd is that if the pump was causing an overload, the fuse should pop to save causing any damage...but obviously that's not happening.
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 2:42 pm |
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 16, 2011
Posts: 495
Trade Rating: +1
Location: huddersfield
|
|
Fuse no 18 - 40amp for the Air con fan(same fusebox) that does the same, overloads the curcuit but does not blow the fuse, i did a thread on it.
| | |
|
|
|
|
| | |
| 206 2ltr Hdi glx 53 plate | |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
Membership:
Latest: 
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 17128
Online Now [62]:
Visitors: 61
Members: 0
Staff Online Now:
Page Views:
General
Forums Home
Forum FAQ
Search
