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 Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 3:06 pm |
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Joined: Jun 29, 2012
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: rugby
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Whats the torque setting for a single bolt crank pulley on a 180?
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Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 5:12 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Hi Ian,
Tightening torque: 40±4 Nm
and then followed up by
angular tightening torque: 54±4°
Play safe! 
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Last edited by Sim on Fri Jul 01, 2016 4:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 12:06 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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That reminds me, the latest Snap On flyer was singing the praises of there fancy digital combined torque / angle wrench.
Norbar for torque wrench's every time.
Halfords professional are rebadged Norbars.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 7:00 pm |
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Joined: Jun 29, 2012
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: rugby
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Undoing said crank pulley bolt,do you just rely on the flywheel locating tool to react against the torque?
I have the cam locking pins and a flywheel tool,it all locates and lines up ok,just don't want to shear the pip off without checking.
Short of taking the starter out and jamming something in the ring gear I don't see any other option?
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 7:28 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7045
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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Stick it in gear with the brakes on. But that might be no use if any engine movement is undesirable.
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 6:02 am |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Try with the impact gun first
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 3:52 pm |
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Joined: Jun 29, 2012
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: rugby
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| Edward wrote: |
| Stick it in gear with the brakes on. But that might be no use if any engine movement is undesirable. |
There will be too much wind up in the gearbox & driveshafts.
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 3:53 pm |
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Joined: Jun 29, 2012
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: rugby
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| Sim wrote: |
| Try with the impact gun first |
a,haven't got one
b,no use when re-torqueing the bolt.
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 4:38 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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It's only to undo the bolt. Notice when sometimes you hit spanner with a hammer on a tough bolt, it gives in right away, without deforming brackets. Impact gun does exactly that
Just clarified my answer a tad: torque it to 40+-4 Nm, and then twist by 54+-4 degrees in addition.
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Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 6:03 pm |
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Joined: Jun 29, 2012
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: rugby
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| Sim wrote: |
It's only to undo the bolt. Notice when sometimes you hit spanner with a hammer on a tough bolt, it gives in right away, without deforming brackets. Impact gun does exactly that
Just clarified my answer a tad: torque it to 40+-4 Nm, and then twist by 54+-4 degrees in addition. |
Thanks for the clarification on torque procedure.
Decided to stop dithering and went for it,crank locking tool held fine.
Water pump now replaced along with a few missing bolts from belt guards from last owners attempt at belt replacement.
All back together and fired up first turn of the key 
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Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:14 pm |
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Joined: Jun 20, 2012
Posts: 1171
Trade Rating: +1
Location: West Country
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Well done there! I think it's the first time I see a successful attempt from the get-go to GTi 180 belt change/adjust on this forum
Mind if I ask which guide you used that explained the tensioning procedures (that aren't the easiest), yet didn't specify the retightening torque settings? Also I presume you had all those special locking tools for the EW10JS at hand?
I'm veering towards a belt change myself, hence doing a read here and there. Damn those floating crank pulleys
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 7:17 pm |
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Joined: Jun 29, 2012
Posts: 57
Trade Rating: 0
Location: rugby
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| Sim wrote: |
Well done there! I think it's the first time I see a successful attempt from the get-go to GTi 180 belt change/adjust on this forum
Mind if I ask which guide you used that explained the tensioning procedures (that aren't the easiest), yet didn't specify the retightening torque settings? Also I presume you had all those special locking tools for the EW10JS at hand?
I'm veering towards a belt change myself, hence doing a read here and there. Damn those floating crank pulleys |
I have done a belt change on a 138 and TBH its not very different apart from the location that you lock the crank.Principles are the same, lock crank and cams in place with appropriate tools,slide belt off,replace water pump if required,install new tensioner,fit belt and tension.
assumed the adjustment on the belt is the same as a 138.
Was unable to get a torque wrench on the tensioner bolt as there is sod all space so just did it FT( 'kin tight).There are adaptors around which will allow you to torque it up ,I just didn't have one.
I bought a timing kit off ebay,says it will suit all Peugeots,err no it doesn't.
Pins for cam pullies were there but not crank.
Got one made at work,appropriate piece of ally bar with a through hole for a drill bit to slide through into hole in flywheel.Worked well enough for me.i have full access to a machine shop but I would recommend you buy the correct tools for both cams and crank.
When the belt is on and tensioned,fit the lower belt guard and fit and tighten crank pulley,DO NOT attempt to turn engine before this is on.
The lower cam belt pulley is not keyed to the crank,it is only the clamping force of the crank pulley that stops it moving
Remove locking pins and rotate the engine by hand feeling for any locking,if you feel any resistance aside from normal compression,stop turning.
Rotate the engine a couple of revolution and take it back to the position where the pins locate,refit all 3 pins and confirm all is still in time.
If all is well,remove the pins.
Recheck the belt tension is still correct,see a 138 manual for the pointer setting,its a bit hard to describe.
Then just reassemble the rest of the belt guards,engine mount etc.
It is not too bad a job,however I have 36 years experience working on cars and engines,if you are in any way uncertain( don't know what experience you have ?) I would not tackle it as it would appear from the forum many have tried and ended in tears.
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Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:43 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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The reason many have had issues in the past on here was due to not using the correct locking tools when timing the engine up.
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| Toyota C-HR GR Sport 2.0 Hybrid with JBL & Alcantara packs. | |
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