Back in 2016 been pondering what kind of first car could my missus have. Knowing the colour she'd want in, weighing fun, garageability, ICE, 206, newish, and few other factors, after numerous candidates I decided to sneak out to a salvage yard and bring a CC back to the 2nd life:
☑ Black is the new black
☑ Well preserved leather interior
☑ Fun drop top for summers
☑ JBL sound system as optional extra from factory (including elongated sub in the boot)
☑ It's a 206! (really..)
☑ Year 2007
☑ 62,700 on the clock
The damage done was this side scrape (looks worse than it is):
and a failed power steering pump (from running dry) -- it had lost the PAS fluid when its pressure sensor (aiding the ESP/ASR system) blew apart:
What could have caused this to happen? Trapped air when low on fluid? Soaring temperatures of heatwaves in summer of '16?
After hiding Symio at the unit, sourcing the spares, and repairing when work on the garage permitted (or not), one year later this CC has been brought up to somewhat presentable and revealed to my unaware missus for her birthday:
Next up I'll write about how it was to straighten the dents and do the preliminary electric PAS pump conversion (the latter will get condensed into a HOW-TO)
You can see from previous photo that cambelt sprockets are exposed, decided to tidy that up, which meant sprockets off, meaning new cambelt, meaning new waterpump, meaning coolant change, meaning "Hal fixing a lightbulb". Was due for cambelt anyway due to no service history from that salvage yard and the mileage.
Yet absolutely loved the engine's designation cast print proudly shining!
TU5JP4 (1.6 16v NFU) cambelt replacement instructions are not in 206 Haynes manual, but they are in the 307 one ..and Autodata is your friend, always. As well as this guy.
Locking up the crankshaft was another pain point, Haynes showing even exhaust manifold removed for easier access. But by the looks of it, oil filter might have to come off, especially if the hole into the flywheel has gunked up with rust.
The middle torx bolt that fixes the inner cambelt cover in place had a small oil leak. I realised it had't been done up properly! Or had come undone due to the oil collecting behind it.
Looks like the cast has been machined up to the very area of the oil gallery itself, so I dried it up as much as possible, dabbed some thread locker, tightened to 22 Nm and hope the oil'll never come back through
The amount of cursing and bashing that the old water pump took was immense. It just caked up from all possible deposits within + time. Initial impactful prying resulted in this:
Finally found an angle where to place the crowbar and leverage it out, to be honest wouldn't know how to proceed, had the cambelt inner cover was still on (that poor plastic wouldn't take the pressure for sure).
With all original Citroen ePAS pump loom in place (relay on the far left of the photo), and a new earthpoint reusing a hole in the radiator housing, this part of the project concluded:
The MOT bucket list was surprisingly short, to replace the O/S/F wishbone.
What could possibly go wrong?
Well, one of the wishbone/subframe steel bolts had seized in, essentially fused itself with the aluminium tubing that sits inside the bush.
So there's no way of getting the bugger out, except for dropping subframe or trying some whacky grinding...
Has anyone been in such a messy situation before?
The clutch biting point has always been very high since we got the car, and even when it doesn't slip, I shouldn't wait for it to (i.e. not driven to "distraction")
Another worrisome bit was seeing the drops of oil collecting under the bell housing, coming out from where the flywheel is (those bungs would be covered in oil):
Oily gunk inside the starter motor only confirmed my suspicion:
Tomorrow will be the gearbox drop and all the oily mess will be revealed. Hoping it's the crankshaft/flywheel seal, and won't be a pig of a job to replace it (haven't looked into that yet)
So far just been following 206 Haynes (occasionally glancing into the 307 one as well), didn't need extra pairs of hands, and left the car for the night without the gearbox mount and the rear engine mount.. just hanging in there! (yet well supported above and below)
Blue Meanie is ready to be washed (pure coincidence)
All spruced up
Next up: crankshaft seal and new self-locking flywheel bolts from the stealer! After examining the clutch release fork, might get a replacement too from ECP, gotta use the opportunity now that the gearbox has dropped...
Here's the deal with the crankshaft seal.. After removing it, luckily no oil was spilling, all of it remained in the sump.
I just tilted the engine as much up as possible by the transmission end, to be sure to be sure
New one in from ECP, said Corteco, arrived Elring, good stuff!
LUK, a new clutch!
Old fork seat has developed a callus, good job I grabbed a new one
Release bearing looks re-designed -- only the top bit is spinning (or has it always been like this just to differ from Valeo )
The rear engine mount nut retaining clip has fallen apart when undone, luckily the new ones come with nuts embedded (even though service box splits them a-part)
Once it was all finally back together, the new clutch felt out of this world. Very easy on the foot, and biting in the middle, just like it should, so I can stop re-learning everytime I hop between the two 206s.
There is however an after-story to all this, that many first-time clutch-changers might want to relate to ...
Cheers Edward, that is one rewarding and satisfying hobby that we all have, isn't it
Let's park the vibra-clutch story closer to the Halloween and catch up with other fixups.
Back in September the offside wheel bearing went out of order. To such extent where it even had a play! Such dislodging might have been "helped" by moving the car in the garage with lower arm pinch ball-joint only located in the hub.
Kids, always put the bolt through there, and the hub bolt back on tight, otherwise the tyre and hub will start mangling the whole suspension around your wheel arch when you push the car even a short distance by hand! And Ackermann's turning in his grave...
Coincidentally to the Andrew's Project, parts been ordered (including SNR bearing kit from ECP that comes handy with a new hub nut and an R-clip) and most of them fitted:
Original track rod end is still in good nick, so will keep the new one for spares, as it straight fits any 206.
Seeing the amount of rust flaking off of the current hub, done some shopping and whaddayaknow, Neat Car Parts on eBay sell brand new ones for £60, which fit CC, GTi, and 2.0 HDi ABS models.
The only difference in cast is that there isn't a bracket to seat the square-head of the pinch bolt for the shock-absorber.
The exposed metal parts are probably the result of post-machining, I've already painted the front of the hub, and will completely cover other areas of the nearside hub when it arrives...read on
Already been driving couple of hundreds of miles with this setup on the offside, no issues
so much that the nearside wheel bearing became all envious and started rumbling beyond compare, all the equivalent parts for the nearside been placed on order yesterday, can't wait to fit!
As soon as the parts came in, took the old hub off to see lots of mash that I'm yet to investigate by taking the bearing apart
Decided to spend a bit more time painting over the unprotected bits of this new hub. Yep, you guessed it right, these naked parts already developed a coat of rust on the O/S/F new hub (see previous post).
A before, during, and the afters:
I didn't go full Monty to spray the whole surface again, just to see how durable the black paint is that it came in (already spotted some bruised bits that I'd then touched up).
The car needs to be back on the road ASAP, which takes part of the fun out... It's all just a playground anyway before the GTi 180 Preservation Society (founded by VorTechS) kicks in full swing.
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