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Forums › The Car › 206 Problems › ECU/engine misfire


 
 

ECU/engine misfire
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Davels
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:48 pm Up
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Hello,

My car (more frequently in this cold weather) has a judder problem when started at around 1000rpm. Once it warms up to temp the juddering goes and its normally fine after the revs drop to a normal 800rpm idle. But occasionally (2or3 times a week now) the juddering worsens and the car sounds and feels like its dropping to 3 cylinders. the power loss is monumental, everything goes and it wont overtake a push bike. I pull over and restart a few times, all 4 cylinders kick and all ok apart from the anti pollution and cat fault warnings showing on the dash for rest of the day.

I am assuming that the pollution fault and cat faults are red herrings as they only occur after dropping a cylinder. This is probably a symptom of unburned fuel from the cylinder being pushed through the exhaust system,

I am suspecting a dodgy coil pack, would you peeps agree, the sparks are newish and the problem did happen with the last set.

I am going to order new coil pack and fit another set of spark plugs but should i be looking at anything else? someone on here with a 180 2L has been having faults and was told to unplug clean and plug in the vvt solenoid. Does the 140 2L also have this? worth checking?

Any help would be great.


PS does anyone know the part number or where i can buy a new coil pack and how much they may cost? I believe the coil pack for all 4 spark plugs is one 4 pronged unit?


Last edited by Davels on Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:26 am; edited 1 time in total
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Jamie
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:54 pm Up
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Try the coil pack, the EW doesn't suffer from the cut out/lumpy idle like the TU engines, and yours doesn't have VVT so 1 less thing to check and replace! Have you had it on diagnostics? Know anyone in the business that could put it on in their lunch hour?
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Taff!
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:56 pm Up
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I've just had similar to this but got away with Just changing the plugs. Exactly the same as you described so I would definitely try other plugs but as said you need to hook it up and get the fault codes. Mine was multiple misfires caused by crap plugs. If the coil pack is getting on a bit then it might be worth checking that and putting in another but without plugging the car in it could be a variety of issues. I know I also have issues with my egr valve which has also kicked up the anti-pollution fault and cat fault but this was dealt with not long after I bought the car. if it is going lumpy though I'm pretty sure that another cause could be a duff lambda sensor forcing an overfuelling. Again no point replacing if you're not certain. A garage should be able to give you the codes for £20-40
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Davels
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 7:30 pm Up
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ta for the replies. Does anyone know where i'm best to get a new coil pack? Cheapest I've seen is online for £110 and it'll probably take about a month to arrive.
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Navarro206
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 2:19 am Up
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have you not got a local scrapyard that would "loan" you a coil pack so you can verify that is what the problem is?
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Edward
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:51 am Up
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I'd change the plugs, then the coilpack, then the oil because it could be a sticky hydraulic lifter. Then if it continues I reckon it's the lifters that need changing.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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macj
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 4:52 am Up
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Davels wrote:
ta for the replies. Does anyone know where i'm best to get a new coil pack? Cheapest I've seen is online for £110 and it'll probably take about a month to arrive.

I may have a S/H one somewhere.... will have a look if your interested

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Davels
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:48 am Up
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Hi chaps,

Thanks for the offers of help and spares etc. I popped to halfords this morning a got a set of super 4's to replace the sparks. Then went off to Peugeot and picked up a brand new coil pack they luckily had in stock. it was only 110 quid and considering if's for all four pots i didn't think it was too bad.

I'm now about to change the lot at once so i don't foul the new pack with a dodgy plug or foul a plug with the dodgy old pack.


I aslo paid 50quid for them to flash the ecu. I happened to have the k (engine managment) light on with a antipollution fault on the centre console.

Odd thing was they found no faults at all, none logged and none showing even though the light was on.

The couldn't even clear the light as there was no fault to clear etc.

They then told me the ECU is probably on it's way out......great! only 800 odd quid for a replacement.
The fault and light then dissapear when they ran the car out of the workshop Confused

I'm keeping my fingers crossed

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macj
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:55 am Up
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Davels wrote:
Hi chaps,

Thanks for the offers of help and spares etc. I popped to halfords this morning a got a set of super 4's to replace the sparks. Then went off to Peugeot and picked up a brand new coil pack they luckily had in stock. it was only 110 quid and considering if's for all four pots i didn't think it was too bad.

I'm now about to change the lot at once so i don't foul the new pack with a dodgy plug or foul a plug with the dodgy old pack.


I aslo paid 50quid for them to flash the ecu. I happened to have the k (engine managment) light on with a antipollution fault on the centre console.

Odd thing was they found no faults at all, none logged and none showing even though the light was on.

The couldn't even clear the light as there was no fault to clear etc.

They then told me the ECU is probably on it's way out......great! only 800 odd quid for a replacement.
The fault and light then dissapear when they ran the car out of the workshop Confused

I'm keeping my fingers crossed

Probably because you need to travel over 5mph to clear some fault lights like ABS for example...

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Davels
PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:39 am Up
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Swapped out the spark plugs and coild pack, which was litterally a 5 minute job thankfully. Car seems to pick up a lot better when warm but cold starts still really judder on 1000rpm. I have no idea what is causing this. Does anyone have any further suggestions?

Also I spaced the new sparks at 1.1mm but yesterday after starting the car and realising i needed the key to unlock the glove box, i restarted and the car took over 5 seconds to turn over. which doesn't seem right. Although it's been alright since.

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Edward
PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:56 am Up
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Does sound like the lifter to me. Try cleaning the map sensor too with some brake cleaner as it costs nothing to try.
2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible.
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Davels
PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:45 am Up
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Could you advise, where abouts the MAP sensor is and how to remove please?

Thanks

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mattievrs
PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:47 am Up
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Davels wrote:
Could you advise, where abouts the MAP sensor is and how to remove please?

Thanks

front of the inlet on left hand side as you look at it.

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Davels
PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:25 am Up
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Ok mate nice one, no idea what the MAP sensor looks like so im' struggling to picture it. But from what you have said it sounds easy to find, lets hope it's easy to get off too.
I've got some cleaner somewhere. Just need to find someone to fast idle for me so i can spray some through the plenum too, the engine doesn't like being starved of air when this stuff goes in.

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Davels
PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:29 am Up
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So i get home it's dark and i'm equiped with a torch and some xmas tools. I looked for the MAP sensor on the left to no avail. But after googling them I found something on the TB that looked like it, helo on by a brass bolt. This didn't seem that dirty.
The throttle body is on the front of the engine and this sensor was on the very front of that. I also found the ICV on the right of the TB and cleaned this also. While I was there I cleaned the plenum and removed a large amount of carbon deposit.

The cold start this morning went well with very minimal judder. Does this suggest I cleaned the right part but not enough (i did as much as i could get too) or have I not found the map sensor and this is somthing I should still try?

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