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 Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:30 pm |
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Joined: Apr 09, 2011
Posts: 241
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Antarctica
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so is it the brake disc that is rusting? a change of disc and i'll be fine?
view through the back wheel.
what is that rusting part beside the nut head?
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:34 pm |
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Joined: Jun 08, 2010
Posts: 1035
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North Manchester
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the rear axle
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:38 pm |
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Joined: Apr 09, 2011
Posts: 241
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Antarctica
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am i in trouble? how much is that part normally?
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:38 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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1st pic, rust on the brake disc is normal.
2nd pic, cross membrance on the rear axle, again, this is normal and it is surface rust only.
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:39 pm |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2011
Posts: 2977
Trade Rating: +34
Location: Nuneaton
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You can pick up a second rear axle for about £120 I think, not sure how much they are new mate, would dread to think lol
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:41 pm |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 10151
Trade Rating: +12
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| furryhobnob wrote: |
| You can pick up a second rear axle for about £120 I think, not sure how much they are new mate, would dread to think lol |
he is in australia 
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:43 pm |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2011
Posts: 2977
Trade Rating: +34
Location: Nuneaton
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| Seabook wrote: |
| furryhobnob wrote: |
| You can pick up a second rear axle for about £120 I think, not sure how much they are new mate, would dread to think lol |
he is in australia |
Haha never realised that, god knows what the prices are though, as above it looks like surface rust, get some wire wool on it and give them a clean
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:43 pm |
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Joined: Jun 08, 2010
Posts: 1035
Trade Rating: +17
Location: North Manchester
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| Seabook wrote: |
| 1st pic, rust on the brake disc is normal. |
oppsss i missed that one 
but as seabrook said , it's nothing to worry about on both counts as its just surface rust
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:59 pm |
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Joined: Apr 09, 2011
Posts: 241
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Antarctica
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wire wool.. do i need to put on any chemical or rust removal juice?
here in australia, the dealers charge rape. thank god for ebay uk but not many send worldwide
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:06 pm |
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Joined: Jun 29, 2010
Posts: 244
Trade Rating: +2
Location: East Sussex
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Jack the beast up, stick some axle stands under, wire brush over the affected area, and the ive a paint with some rust proof paint.
but it is normal to look like that
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| 206 3dr 1.4 GLX modified slightly, Lowered 35mm on full Gmax kit, 17" AEZ xylo alloys 205/45/17, 3.5" Savage back box, | |
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:16 pm |
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Joined: Feb 26, 2011
Posts: 2977
Trade Rating: +34
Location: Nuneaton
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You can use a spray that removes oil etc, and I'd use wire wool after I'd sprayed it, then as above paint it with some black hammerite or something
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:13 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 5400
Trade Rating: +105
Location: Stafford
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They are both fine, every 206 I've worked on has had it at least like that probably worse. Surface rust is fine as long as it doesn't get massively worse but to be honest I've never heard of a 206 having bad rust in those places. Wire brush it and underseal if you are that worried (obviously not the brake disc though).
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:52 am |
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Joined: Jun 19, 2010
Posts: 1600
Trade Rating: +4
Location: South Bucks
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Surface rust on the discs is normal except where the pads rub/touch. If the disc face is rusting it could be lack of use (or you've just had a rainstorm or washed the car) or the piston is sticking meaning that brake isn't functioning. Take it for a quick spin and the face should brighten up again.
What's more important on the disc is the thickness and how smooth the surface is. Heavily scored and it's likely to reduce braking. Too thin and in the worst case the disc could crack but is more likely that the handbrake is next to useless. Like ours was on the 206CC before I replaced all the discs and pads soon after buying it ... only a couple of mm of pad and heavily scored discs ... how it got an MOT in April is odd ... I've found 5 things it should have failed on!!! Don't trust a dealer!
Also check the pad material thickness .. if that wears out, then the disc is going to get damaged by the metal backing plate rubbing on the metal disc ...but you'd probably hear that anyway! 
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| Down to just the 1.4 HDi. Cayman Green 2.0i CC sold. | |
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:30 am |
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Joined: Feb 08, 2010
Posts: 7044
Trade Rating: +5
Location: In the garage
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That disc isn't anything that a bit of braking can't sort out. It doesn't look anything unusual anyway.
If you don't like the look of the rear axle mounts you can paint them...
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| 2001 GTi 138, Bilstein Sprint dampers, H&R springs, 21mm Peugeot Sport torsion bars, 22mm rear ARB, Peugeot Sport Group A wishbones, 283mm discs, Goodridge stainless hoses, Maniflow 304 grade 4-2-1 2.5" manifold and system, 200 cell cat, Richard Longman head, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, 9.5mm TB spacers, 90mm air horns, Jenvey throttle linkage, Jenvey fuel rail, Aeromotive and Goodridge fuel fittings and braided hose, ITG sausage filter, Radtec custom radiator, Piper Ultimate Road cams, Piper vernier pulleys, Omex 600 ECU. Saxo electric PAS pump, Vibra Technics engine mounts. Samco coolant hoses, TTV steel flywheel, 4.76 final drive ratio, 307 CC 180 ratios. 2019 BMW 530i. 2017 Mercedes C300 convertible. | |
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:36 am |
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Joined: Apr 09, 2011
Posts: 241
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Antarctica
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maybe i should get a car ramp like yours first. i have a really cramped up garage where i have to be careful how i swing my doors open when i get home. what would be ideal when it comes to lifting the car up to work on? stands or ramps?
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