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 Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 5:35 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 5575
Trade Rating: +33
Location: Moscow
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Is there anyway to test the fan (well more specifically te relay, as I know the fan works) without the temp getting to 90+ ...
I had the corroded wire issue and just in the process of sorting it but want to ensure the relay works before using the car for 300+ miles in this heat 
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 6:34 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 13077
Trade Rating: +65
Location: England
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Turn the AC on
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 7:59 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 5575
Trade Rating: +33
Location: Moscow
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Ac has been disconnected 
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 8:01 am |
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Joined: Feb 12, 2010
Posts: 98
Trade Rating: 0
Location: Leeds, UK
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As Lee says - you can put the AC on to test the fan.
However, if like mine, the AC doesn't work then the fan won't kick in.
The fan has two speeds - the first low speed for when the car hits about 97 on the gauge and the second high speed for when the temperature gets critical in the red.
You can test the high speed by disconnecting the water temperature gauge on the engine block.
This causes the temp gauge to go to the red on the gauge (open circuit) and the high speed fan to kick in.
On my 206 1.4 HDI it is a green electrical connector. Be careful not to take the whole unit out, only the electrical connection, or the water will leak out.
I'm not sure how you test a relay but you can test the circuit of the relay if you carefully prize it open, take off the plastic housing to expose the electrics inside and push the electrical contact closed while the engine is running it will operate the fan.
You can do this with either the high or low speed circuit to test it but it doesn't test the relay itself, only the circuit as you are effectively switching the relay on manually.
Another way to test the low speed fan is by driving the car until it gets to normal temperature, then pull over and increase the revs for a while until it creeps up to around 97 degrees.
If it hasn't kicked in by 100 then the low speed relay is probably knackered and they're only around £5 to replace each.
DON'T LET THE TEMPERATURE GET MUCH ABOVE 100 this as it is very hot but not critical in the red.
By driving for 1/2 mile at around 40+ MPH it will get the engine temperature back down to normal so no danger of over heating.
I just replaced both of my relays recently but not sure which is which off hand for low and high speed.
Andy
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 8:11 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 13077
Trade Rating: +65
Location: England
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Just send +12v to the switch on the relay, instead of messing about with sensors. If it turns on then the relay works
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:20 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 585
Trade Rating: +2
Location: aberdeen
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whats the corroded wire issue??
my fan has never work and this sounds like it could be the problem, either that or the motors nacked....
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:27 am |
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Joined: Nov 27, 2010
Posts: 11519
Trade Rating: +10
Location: What's it to you? ? ?
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| nakednakeddave wrote: |
whats the corroded wire issue??
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The wires behind the grill that control the fan relays rot away & stop the cooling fan working.
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:44 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 5575
Trade Rating: +33
Location: Moscow
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Cheers m'lovelys... Will try that later Lee.
I ran it up to 95 earlier and it didn't kick in. So I have a feeling it is fahooked.
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 10:33 am |
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Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Posts: 13077
Trade Rating: +65
Location: England
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TBH the fan will never kick in anyway unless you are stood in traffic for a bit. The cool air from the car moving cools the engine down.
If it begins to overheat, just put the heater on full wack on hot, and open the windows
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